? about towbars - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

DHregdovic · 10-29-2002, 11:10 PM

I'm getting ready to towbar my 67 LWB with 4 speed from WA to PA. Would anybody suggest removing the driveline or will the tranny lubricate itself enough during the trip.

Longhorn Man · 10-30-2002, 12:38 AM

With an automatic, you should always disconnect it...as for a stick, I couldn't say.
I'd do it just to be sure. When i tow bared my GMC from Central Tx to Ohio...and when I also towbared the Longhron from eastern PE to Ohio...I just unbolted it frm the diff and strapped it to the crossmember. That way you don't lose any oil from the tranny.

HvyChevy454 · 10-30-2002, 01:05 AM

be careful with it though, my friend was fixing to set out towing his 72 SWB on a towbar w/ his 01 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, his drive way has about a 10 degree slope and as he was pulling out and turning left he touched the brake to ease down and the 72 pushed the back end of his truck around ripped the tire off the bead and jack knifed and smashed his rear step bumper on the 01, didnt even scratch the 72.

Longhorn Man · 10-30-2002, 01:22 AM

NORMALLY if the tow rig is heavier than the one being towed, there is no problem if the driver don't get out of hand.
I did a one ton Longhorn towed by an 87 K5 Blazer for 430 miles. Not a single problem. Kinda scarry at times...but no real problems.
When I had the SWB GMC behind the moving van, i honestly couldn't tell it was there.

Huck · 10-30-2002, 09:18 AM

Definitely disconnect the drive shaft or the tranny will overheat. Keep your turns wide and slow and allow for long break space--don't run too close to the dude infront of you as braking will not be normal. Some states require brake and turn signals on the towed vehicle so allow for that. Other then that, you should be OK.
BY THE WAY, ANYONE HERE FROM THE MEMBER WHO WAS TOWING A TRUCK ON A FLATBED BEHIND A JEEP WRANGLER???

DHregdovic · 10-30-2002, 10:30 AM

Thanx guys.... It will be towed behind a moving van so I don't really expect any problems. BTW: I got a tow bar from JC Whitney that is rated at 5,000 lbs for $102.00. It is made by Hidden Hitch too.

I've read all the previous posts about the Walmar tow bar rated at 3,000 for the same price. This is just another option but you do have to wait for the mail order.

DHregdovic · 10-30-2002, 10:43 AM

Here's some other info that I found:

1967 OEM Chevy Truck Chassis Manual:

If a vehicle with an auto trans becomes disabled and requires towing speed must not exceed 30mph. Driveshaft must be disabled if speed to go over 30 mph or a distance over 50 miles.

Both man and auto trans should be towed in neutral only with brakes released.

Chilton 70-87 chevy/gmc p/u truck repair manual:

Basically the same as above except they noted that the only safe way to tow a 4-wheel drive is with a tow bar - they made no mention of why.

DHregdovic · 10-30-2002, 11:10 AM

Even more info...
I called Hidden Hitch to ask them the same question. They referred me to Roadmaster (they actually make the tow bar for them). They in turn referred me to Remco which they are supposed towing experts. BTW their number is 800-228-2481 if anyone has any other towing questions.

Anyway, their answer is that I am ok towing with the driveline in place on a 4 speed manual in an older chevrolet application. He said the manuals that do need disconnected are the 5 speeds on the newer trucks. He made no note of 3 speed manuals - I guess I should have asked...

yellowgmc · 10-30-2002, 12:06 PM

make sure that driveshaft is strapped on real well. when i traded my dakota for my gmc i towed the dakota to the guys house. the driveshaft was already disconected so the guy strapped it up under the truck. 10 blocks away the drive shaft fell off! luck we weren't on the highway. that would have been a real mess. but the truck wasn't mine any more so oh well.

Longhorn Man · 10-31-2002, 12:42 AM

As for tail lights, I made a harnes that woked pretty dang slick when we brought the longhorn here.
I took a trailer harness plug, and ran it under the hood of the towed vehicle, and using wall mart crimp on connections, I installed the spaid terminals. (like speaker connections) I then unplugged the tail light harness from the fire wall, and plugged them in on the blades in the truck's harness plug. Took a few min figuring out what was what, but it worked slick, and was made out of crap just laying around.
Even if the law does not require lights...it's just smart.
Also, I advise on removing the front bumper and bolting to the frame...I've tweaked every bumper I have bolted to...even though I was effectively bolting to the frame.
Also, after 5 miles, check the mounting for tightness...and again after 10 miles. Then check at every fuel stop.

DHregdovic · 10-31-2002, 03:34 AM

That's an excellent idea for lighting Longhorn!!! I would have never thought of it. I plan to finish loading tomorrow (Thursday) and head out Friday am. Finally getting back home from out here...

**Bernie** · 10-31-2002, 10:44 AM

It was me who towed the K20 frame behind a jeep wrangler on a towing dolly. It went fine. The dolly moved about a bit, people kept away from me. Held my breath when the interstate became one lane over a bridge. I thought seriously about using a tow bar, but when Andy said to step on the gas when it starts to jack knife, I made my decision.

OLDCHEV4X4 · 10-31-2002, 05:48 PM

Andy. Your wiring set up is slick. In fact i made one myself after i saw yours at my house. But instead of pluging it into to a flat 4 at the tow truck, I cut the plugs off of a old wiring harness and turned them 180 deg. and tied the "slick Andy wiring " into that. So i can move the towing wires from truck to truck no matter if it has trailer wiring or not.
Randy

Longhorn Man · 11-01-2002, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by OLDCHEV4X4
"slick Andy wiring "

Hmmmmm, that is usually ment in a bad way...
I have made my own harness since then too.

10-29-2002, 11:10 PM	#1
DHregdovic Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Beaver County, PA Posts: 46	? about towbars I'm getting ready to towbar my 67 LWB with 4 speed from WA to PA. Would anybody suggest removing the driveline or will the tranny lubricate itself enough during the trip. __________________ 67 LWB GMC 250 inline w/4spd manual Disc/power brake conversion

10-30-2002, 01:05 AM	#3
HvyChevy454 Slowly getting CRSS... Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Lutz, Florida Posts: 656	be careful with it though, my friend was fixing to set out towing his 72 SWB on a towbar w/ his 01 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, his drive way has about a 10 degree slope and as he was pulling out and turning left he touched the brake to ease down and the 72 pushed the back end of his truck around ripped the tire off the bead and jack knifed and smashed his rear step bumper on the 01, didnt even scratch the 72. __________________ -Nic Lutz, Fl My Team Website The Heavy Chevy Website ------------------ 72 Cheyenne 10 LWB GM 12-bolt 3.08 w/ Auburn Posi 91 454 Edel Performer RPM Intake 750 cfm carb Comp Cam 268/.495 Hedman Headers Dual 3'' Exhaust 71 Cheyenne 20 4x4 Fact. A/C PS PB Tilt Currently in the works... Speak Softly and Carry A Big Block... There is No replacement for Displacement... "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti

10-30-2002, 10:30 AM	#6
DHregdovic Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Beaver County, PA Posts: 46	Thanx guys.... It will be towed behind a moving van so I don't really expect any problems. BTW: I got a tow bar from JC Whitney that is rated at 5,000 lbs for $102.00. It is made by Hidden Hitch too. I've read all the previous posts about the Walmar tow bar rated at 3,000 for the same price. This is just another option but you do have to wait for the mail order. __________________ 67 LWB GMC 250 inline w/4spd manual Disc/power brake conversion

10-30-2002, 10:43 AM	#7
DHregdovic Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Beaver County, PA Posts: 46	Here's some other info that I found: 1967 OEM Chevy Truck Chassis Manual: If a vehicle with an auto trans becomes disabled and requires towing speed must not exceed 30mph. Driveshaft must be disabled if speed to go over 30 mph or a distance over 50 miles. Both man and auto trans should be towed in neutral only with brakes released. Chilton 70-87 chevy/gmc p/u truck repair manual: Basically the same as above except they noted that the only safe way to tow a 4-wheel drive is with a tow bar - they made no mention of why. __________________ 67 LWB GMC 250 inline w/4spd manual Disc/power brake conversion

10-30-2002, 11:10 AM	#8
DHregdovic Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Beaver County, PA Posts: 46	Even more info... I called Hidden Hitch to ask them the same question. They referred me to Roadmaster (they actually make the tow bar for them). They in turn referred me to Remco which they are supposed towing experts. BTW their number is 800-228-2481 if anyone has any other towing questions. Anyway, their answer is that I am ok towing with the driveline in place on a 4 speed manual in an older chevrolet application. He said the manuals that do need disconnected are the 5 speeds on the newer trucks. He made no note of 3 speed manuals - I guess I should have asked... __________________ 67 LWB GMC 250 inline w/4spd manual Disc/power brake conversion

10-30-2002, 12:38 AM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	With an automatic, you should always disconnect it...as for a stick, I couldn't say. I'd do it just to be sure. When i tow bared my GMC from Central Tx to Ohio...and when I also towbared the Longhron from eastern PE to Ohio...I just unbolted it frm the diff and strapped it to the crossmember. That way you don't lose any oil from the tranny.

10-30-2002, 01:22 AM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	NORMALLY if the tow rig is heavier than the one being towed, there is no problem if the driver don't get out of hand. I did a one ton Longhorn towed by an 87 K5 Blazer for 430 miles. Not a single problem. Kinda scarry at times...but no real problems. When I had the SWB GMC behind the moving van, i honestly couldn't tell it was there.

10-30-2002, 09:18 AM	#5
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	Definitely disconnect the drive shaft or the tranny will overheat. Keep your turns wide and slow and allow for long break space--don't run too close to the dude infront of you as braking will not be normal. Some states require brake and turn signals on the towed vehicle so allow for that. Other then that, you should be OK. BY THE WAY, ANYONE HERE FROM THE MEMBER WHO WAS TOWING A TRUCK ON A FLATBED BEHIND A JEEP WRANGLER???

10-30-2002, 12:06 PM	#9
yellowgmc Getting cabin fever?!?!?! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: chisholm, mn Posts: 1,679	make sure that driveshaft is strapped on real well. when i traded my dakota for my gmc i towed the dakota to the guys house. the driveshaft was already disconected so the guy strapped it up under the truck. 10 blocks away the drive shaft fell off! luck we weren't on the highway. that would have been a real mess. but the truck wasn't mine any more so oh well. __________________ Member of the Discs Up Front Club 1972 GMC 1500 1994 F-150 XL 4x4 Tact is for people not whitty enough to be sarcastic

10-31-2002, 12:42 AM	#10
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	As for tail lights, I made a harnes that woked pretty dang slick when we brought the longhorn here. I took a trailer harness plug, and ran it under the hood of the towed vehicle, and using wall mart crimp on connections, I installed the spaid terminals. (like speaker connections) I then unplugged the tail light harness from the fire wall, and plugged them in on the blades in the truck's harness plug. Took a few min figuring out what was what, but it worked slick, and was made out of crap just laying around. Even if the law does not require lights...it's just smart. Also, I advise on removing the front bumper and bolting to the frame...I've tweaked every bumper I have bolted to...even though I was effectively bolting to the frame. Also, after 5 miles, check the mounting for tightness...and again after 10 miles. Then check at every fuel stop.

10-31-2002, 03:34 AM	#11
DHregdovic Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Beaver County, PA Posts: 46	That's an excellent idea for lighting Longhorn!!! I would have never thought of it. I plan to finish loading tomorrow (Thursday) and head out Friday am. Finally getting back home from out here... __________________ 67 LWB GMC 250 inline w/4spd manual Disc/power brake conversion

10-31-2002, 10:44 AM	#12
Bernie Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 516	It was me who towed the K20 frame behind a jeep wrangler on a towing dolly. It went fine. The dolly moved about a bit, people kept away from me. Held my breath when the interstate became one lane over a bridge. I thought seriously about using a tow bar, but when Andy said to step on the gas when it starts to jack knife, I made my decision. __________________ Bernie

10-31-2002, 05:48 PM	#13
OLDCHEV4X4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Chester County PA, USA Posts: 1,228	Andy. Your wiring set up is slick. In fact i made one myself after i saw yours at my house. But instead of pluging it into to a flat 4 at the tow truck, I cut the plugs off of a old wiring harness and turned them 180 deg. and tied the "slick Andy wiring " into that. So i can move the towing wires from truck to truck no matter if it has trailer wiring or not. Randy __________________ 72 k/10 short wideside 72 k/5 Blazer 72 K/5 Blazer - obstacle course racer 72 custom/10 8' bed 70 K/5 Blazer 67 C-30 GMC Flat bed 86 GMC K2500 Plow Truck 85 GMC K3500 84 M1008 85 M1008 77 G30 Motor Home 72 Sears 12hp Tractor Glenmoore, Pennsylvania

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.