benefits of the disc brake dana 44

[bad_turbo]

I have a '67 1/2 ton 4x4 burb with '68 3/4 ton axles front and rear. Of course the front axle is the dana 44 with drum brakes. Just wondering what is the advantage of swapping in the later model front dana 44 with disc brakes, other than the disc brakes? Is there another reason to do this swap? I don't really see whats so bad about the drum brakes.

[msgross]

I have heard that the turning radius is better with the newer axle, never tested it though. I did it for the disc brakes since mine were pretty shot.

If you lift it then you can add a raised steering arm to the newer axle too. If your brakes are good then no need to swap...

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by msgross

I have heard that the turning radius is better with the newer axle, never tested it though. I did it for the disc brakes since mine were pretty shot.

If you lift it then you can add a raised steering arm to the newer axle too. If your brakes are good then no need to swap...

This is accurate the closed knuckle doesn't turn as well.

Also, stronger ujoints, easier to find parts (Open Dana 44 is still in use today).

[1969 GMC]

ford through some deep water, then get back to us on how you like those drum brakes so much.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by 1969 GMC

ford through some deep water, then get back to us on how you like those drum brakes so much.

Then again, the closed knuckles are nice for that, keeping the water out of the innards...

Just sucks to work on them for maintenance.

[1969 GMC]

Originally Posted by grendel

Then again, the closed knuckles are nice for that, keeping the water out of the innards...

Just sucks to work on them for maintenance.

Hehe, when I had mine apart, the knuckles were full of the nastiest 35 year old oil and water milkshake you could imagine. The seals on the ball and socket don't work very well. I'd rather stick with an open knuckle axle and get some of the Mad4wd outer axle tube seals, and just replace ujoints when they need it.

[Yukon Jack]

My 69 K20 has the closed knuckle axle and with the 35"s the turning radius is terrible. When I make a turn, I often have no choice but go into the other lane a bit.

I put my 35"s on my 70 K5 with an open knuckle axle and the difference shocked me. I stay entirely in my lane without evening having to be in full lock when I turn.

That alone would be reason enough for me to recommend you make the change.

[msgross]

wish I would have known about those seals when I built my axle... oh well...

[wibilly]

grendel tell us about these Larry's outer seals. when i tore mine apart [first time ever] i thought it was just rediculis that there was no outer seal other than the rusted off tin dust shield which i had to stamp my own replacements because i couldnt find them. my axel tubes were just full of crud

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by wibilly

grendel tell us about these Larry's outer seals. when i tore mine apart [first time ever] i thought it was just rediculis that there was no outer seal other than the rusted off tin dust shield which i had to stamp my own replacements because i couldnt find them. my axel tubes were just full of crud

Easy enough:

http://madmfg.com/drivetrain-1/dana-...-seal-485.html

It seals at the outer C of the axle.

[Husker]

I swapped over to power disc on my 44 1/2 ton and it stops almost to good. Lot better to have disc than drums. Thanks for the post on the seals.
Ron

[cobinder]

Ok, so tell me again, where do these seals go? Theres not much room in there.

[Husker]

The outer portion of the axle right inside of the Knuckle.
Ron

[67Cowboy]

I don't mean to Hi-jack, but I have a 69 K10 with the old closed knuckles also, and I was curious what all model axles will work in place of the old drum brake style. Our Suburban is a daily driver and I see a lot of 73-87 suburbans that people are selling for parts; and most of the 4x4 guys in my area want the 3/4 and 1 ton axles with low gears so I should be able to find some factory 1/2 axles with tall highway gears to work great for me if I knew which ones would work. I would appreciate any help, I've tried doing a search here but haven't found a list or anything to know for sure !?!?!?!?!?

[LONGHAIR]

Why would you put those on a closed knuckle front axle? The axle joints are designed to be lubricated by the gear lube that gets out there. There is supposed to be a "felt" type wiper that is held in place by the metal C-shaped strips. I'm not saying that it is the greatest design ever, but "sealing" the gear lube away from the axle joints does not seem like the answer either.

BTW, I am not a fan of using those on open knucle axles either. There is no a "sealing surface" on the axle and it's too far away from a bearing anyway. The axle will tear that seal up very quickly.

Up-grading to a later model open axle is really the best way to go.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by 67Cowboy

I don't mean to Hi-jack, but I have a 69 K10 with the old closed knuckles also, and I was curious what all model axles will work in place of the old drum brake style. Our Suburban is a daily driver and I see a lot of 73-87 suburbans that people are selling for parts; and most of the 4x4 guys in my area want the 3/4 and 1 ton axles with low gears so I should be able to find some factory 1/2 axles with tall highway gears to work great for me if I knew which ones would work. I would appreciate any help, I've tried doing a search here but haven't found a list or anything to know for sure !?!?!?!?!?

Any of the later model axles will bolt into the front. They maintain the same spring pad spacing. Later model 1 ton rears will bolt in without modifiying the spring pads. 3/4 rears (later) require cutting the spring pads off and re-welding them.

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Why would you put those on a closed knuckle front axle? The axle joints are designed to be lubricated by the gear lube that gets out there. There is supposed to be a "felt" type wiper that is held in place by the metal C-shaped strips. I'm not saying that it is the greatest design ever, but "sealing" the gear lube away from the axle joints does not seem like the answer either.

BTW, I am not a fan of using those on open knucle axles either. There is no a "sealing surface" on the axle and it's too far away from a bearing anyway. The axle will tear that seal up very quickly.

Up-grading to a later model open axle is really the best way to go.

You don't use them on a closed model knuckle. Open knuckle only. Have you ever used them, or seen them?

Funny, I have more than 25K miles on one set of them and no problems with them tearing up.

The spindle bearings keep the axles centered, as does the seal itself.

[LONGHAIR]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969 GMC
Hehe, when I had mine apart, the knuckles were full of the nastiest 35 year old oil and water milkshake you could imagine. The seals on the ball and socket don't work very well. I'd rather stick with an open knuckle axle and get some of the Mad4wd outer axle tube seals, and just replace ujoints when they need it.

Well, they did 35 years ago (the seals )

I do like Larry's outer seals. I run them in all my front axles.

This suggests that those would work on a closed knuckle axle too. If I miss-interpreted, my fault.

The spindle bearings keep the axles centered, as does the seal itself.

In the first place, the spindle bearing is on the other side of the axle joint and most of the ones I have serviced were shot anyway. Any stiffness in the joint "works" really hard on that bearing and the lock-out hub's guts too. The other end of the inner axle is quite some distance away. Seals are always very close to a bearing of some kind, they are not "supportive". It was never designed to have a seal there, so there isn't a place for one to ride.

"Most" of the miles of street driven 4x4s are un-locked, so the amount of miles really doesn't mean anything. I see that as a un-necessary expense for zero net gain, that's all.