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05-13-2008, 07:57 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Nothing contained in here should be taken as THE way to do it, the PROPER way to do it or anything other than how I did it.
I felt it was time for new brakes at all four corners – I started with the rear – I pulled the wheel, then the drum. It came right off – that was a good sign as it meant the shoes hadn’t dug into the drums. I found a mess. The axle seal had been leaking and as much as I didn’t want to, I decided I might as well replace the axle bearings while I was at it. And, while I was there, the brake cylinders too. They were nice and dry but while I was in there….
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:00 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I picked up brake shoes, axle bearings and seals as well as brake cylinders.
A brake spring tool is cheap and money well spent! First I sprayed down the brake setup with brake cleaner to knock down any of the asbestos dust (respiratory concern if you will). I took apart all the brake components on the passenger side first (so I could use the drivers side as reference (remember though they are mirror images of each other). Photos are definitely useful too BEFORE you start disassembling anything. After I pulled all the brake components off and realized I didn’t have enough room where I was parked to pull the axles out. DOH! So, I wired up the little push arms on the cylinder so I could gingerly use the brakes to move the truck.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:04 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY – safety glasses and good jacking, blocking and securing methods are a must. Never met anyone that stood back up when a vehicle was resting on their back or enjoyed rust and fluids in their eyes. “Be safe! Nuff said.
I raised up both rear wheels to clear the ground and blocked up the truck. I also blocked both front wheels to prevent ANY movement. I put my collector pan under the differential and pulled 10 of the12 bolts holding the cover on – the 2 others (one on each side), were left just slightly threaded. This prevents you from dropping the cover into your pan and all the fluid gushing out all over. Pry loose the bottom of the cover to allow it to drain then take out the last two bolts and remove the cover. Keep it handy.
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:05 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
There is a horizontal bolt in the carrier housing that secures the carrier pin – The pin keeps the two axels from moving in towards the center of the differential and letting the c clips fall off the end of the axles.
I read that once you pull the carrier pin, try not to rotate the gears as the smaller spider gears can fall out. I made notes on the pics to explain.
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:06 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I removed the carrier pin bolt and thought it very short – it came out easy… then I realized it was broken off in the hole! I saw one thread sticking about the holes edge and was able to turn it with my finger! It came out and I realized the end was only a smooth pin.
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:06 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I had to rotate the gears slightly to A) get a wrench on the carrier pin bolt and then again to B) be able to lightly drive the pin out as a PO had buggered the ends up a bit (probably with a hammer). With the truck solidly blocked up and front wheels secured, it was possible to put the truck in neutral so I could rotate the assembly. I was paranoid the whole time about the spider gears falling out – didn’t happen.
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-14-2008 at 05:26 AM. |
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05-13-2008, 08:07 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Once the pin was out, I pushed in on the outer end of the passenger axle. It slid in about ¾ of an inch. I reached into the differential and removed the clip from the end of the axle. It came off very easily. Then I pulled the axle out.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:08 PM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
As I was done at the differential end for a bit, I temporarily put the cover back on with two bolts just to keep the dust out of it.
I also cleaned all the brake parts that would be reused and threw some paint on them too.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:08 PM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
As for things reused, On the rear shoe the arm for the e-brake has a C clip securing it to the brake shoe – between the shoe and the arm there is a cupped washer – I cleaned them up and installed the arm on the new shoe.
Next was clean up time. I washed down the brake backing plate with laquer thinner and got all the grease, lube, etc. off of it.
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-14-2008 at 05:27 AM. |
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05-13-2008, 08:08 PM
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I used a small pinch bar to pry out the old axle seal – being careful not to do any damage to the end of the axle tube (don’t want to bend anything out of round).
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:09 PM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I made a puller to remove the bearing – the “star” just happened to be 1/2” steel with a perfect hole in it (your star may vary). I made it with two large washers – one smaller than the other, I trimmed both sides of each so the would fit through the bearing center and when pulled back, stand upright and catch the inner edge of the bearing. I then put the plate (star) over the end of the axle tube and started tightening the nut – it walked the bearing out right nice. On the passenger side, I hadn’t pulled the brake cylinder off yet so I put a block off wood under the bottom of the plate (star) so it was an even, level, perpendicular pull. On the drivers side, I took the cylinder off first before pulling the bearing (live and learn). I’d recommend take the cylinder off first.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-14-2008 at 05:29 AM. |
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05-13-2008, 08:09 PM
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
To take the cylinder off, first get a small cap or some such to seal off the brake line so you don’t lose a lot of fluid. There are two bolts on the back of the cylinder that hold it to the backing plate. I broke the brake line fitting lose first – as I didn’t have a cap for the line, I used a small piece of closed cell foam, cut a slit in it and stuck it over the end of the brake line – no leak. Then I pulled the bolts holding the cylinder on. There is a left and right cylinder so make sure when you reinstall the new ones, you have them on the correct side (other wise, the brake lines won’t line up)
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:10 PM
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I cleaned inside the axle tube as far as I could with clean wipes – making sure the tube, edges, etc. were spotless. I plugged the tube with a clean wipe and sprayed the plate with primer and then shiny black paint.
I then took the bearing and packed it with some high temp grease – I know this is debated as the rear end lube does keep them lubricated but it’ll be a while before any gets there so I figured it couldn’t hurt. I inserted the bearing into the axle tube – I had read to keep the bearing face with writing on it, facing out so I did – it looks the same on both sides but that’s what I did. Once I couldn’t push the bearing in any further by hand, I used a 1-7/8” socket to tap the bearing in and seat it. I used a hammer to tap the socket lightly and once it was seated, the “ring” sound of the tapping changed so I was sure it was seated.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:10 PM
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I used my finger to wipe a real thin layer of grease around the axle tube – figuring it would help the seal, slide in easier and seal. Don’t know about that part but it made sense to me at the time. Next, I inserted the new seal the same way the bearing was installed.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:11 PM
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
After the new seal was seated I squirted a little differential lube into the tube behind the bearing (give it a head start) (not enough to run back into the open differential and drain out though).
Next comes the new shoes – I placed a small amount of brake lubricant on each of the 8 humps the shoes ride on – 4 for the front and 4 for the back shoe.
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:11 PM
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#16 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I slid the axle back in, keeping it from putting any cockeyed pressure on the seal. The axle will come up against the differential end – with a little up and down wiggling and slight inward pressure, it slid right in. Install the new shoes, plates, pieces, springs, etc
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! |
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05-13-2008, 08:12 PM
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#17 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I reached inside the differential and put the C clip on the end of the axle. With finger pressure, I pushed the axle back towards the outside of the truck and made sure the c clip slid into place and stayed.
I installed the new brake cylinder – first by holding in place and getting the brake line started into its hole. Then I put in the two bolts, tightened them up and then finished the brake line tightening. I forgot to mention, I had the wife press/hold the brake a few times so I could bleed the air out of each cylinder. Now I just need to top off the fluid (should be good until I change it all out). Repeat all of the above for the other side.
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-14-2008 at 05:22 AM. |
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05-13-2008, 08:13 PM
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
I ran into a problem with the drivers side cylinder I’ll share – the brake cylinder would not fit on the backing plate between the two end brackets. I had to trim back the corners with my grinder – just a little but it made all the difference. I found that the passenger side was made in Italy – guess where the drivers side was made… yep, china… ugh!
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-14-2008 at 05:32 AM. |
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05-14-2008, 12:08 AM
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#19 |
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I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,992
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Good write up Luvlegs,I hope the staff puts it in FAQ's/I also see you dodged the bullet on the problem I had when replacing rear wheel cylinders.When I went to install the brake line started good,the first bolt started good,but the second bolt would not start.I tried several times,loosened the first bolt thinking maybe it was holding it cockeyed or something.Finally I got frustrated and decided to take it out and start over.Good thing I did,it would have never started.The China made wheel cylinder had been drilled but not tapped for the second hole.
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The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" |
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05-14-2008, 02:47 AM
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#20 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
good right up, i'll save the pics for my rear brakes.
FYI, Autozone has all those special tools (puller, bearing seat,) for free rental. After I ruined one axle seal I decided to get the bearing set... I guess my socket wasn't large enough for the tapping!
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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05-14-2008, 05:19 AM
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#21 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Thank Panel - If it wasn't sunday by the time I got to that point I might of went back to get another Italian one (I was raised that way myself so they must be better!).
Gross, I figured if I made my own tools, I have 'em for the next time and I was only out some stuff I had laying around and about 30 minutes time. Funny, after I got this all done and finally got back on the site, I noticed there were posts about diffs, brakes, etc. I got about $100 total in the shoes, seals, bearings & fluids (that includes the front pads for my next period of "spare time"). Any guestimate as to what it would have cost to have it all done?
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"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-14-2008 at 05:24 AM. |
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05-14-2008, 06:22 AM
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#22 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Nashville
Posts: 48
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Hi,
I viewed all the work you did on your brakes...nice job! If you wouldn't mind, perhaps you can take a look at my post "Rear Brake Problems" posted today, and let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks, Larry
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Larry 72 Cheyenne LWB Fleetside Oak Bed 350 w/ TH400 (finally complete!). 69 Chevy C-10 LWB 350 w/ TH350 (good 'ol rusty bullet proof dependable hauler). 02 Suburban Z71 4x4 (wife's driver). |
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05-15-2008, 12:06 AM
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#23 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
Posts: 1,537
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Anybody have a rough idea how much I saved doing it myself? (provided it all works properly!
 ) kinda curious....
__________________
"A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew! Last edited by Luvlegs; 05-15-2008 at 12:07 AM. |
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12-20-2016, 04:26 PM
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#24 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
Posts: 1,887
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Quote:
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05-15-2008, 12:42 AM
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#25 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
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Re: How I did rear axle seals, bearings, brake shoes & cylinders
Awesome. I just got my rear buttoned up yesterday. My pin was broken the exact same way in the exact same spot!! I had to use an easy out on mine though. You got way lucky!!! I went to advanced auto and borrowed the bearing puller kit. It pulled the bearings easy and I used something in the kit to reinstall the bearings, even though that wasn't the purpose it worked perfectly!! Great job, nice write up! Definately a FAQ.
Shawn
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
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