Engine won't start...possible spark prob? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Jefe · 11-05-2002, 10:37 AM

Small block 350...will crank just fine, new starter/new battery and alternator. Doesn't seem to catch though...brand new fuel pump and carb...less than a week old. Pulled the line off of the carb to see if I have enough gas coming out of the pump and no clogs and we are good there. Just put a new coil/cap/rotor and plug wires on the HEI distributor 2 weeks ago. The inside of the distributor looked way way rusty...never seen one so bad. The motor will crank and crank, and just every once and awhile it will catch and I can get it to run alright when I hold open the throttle but once I let it go it slows down and dies really quick. Checked all my vacume lines, all are capped off or in good condition. Thinking the control module might be at fault because it just looked so bad in there...rusty and dirty wires leading to the cap etc. Oh yah checked the voltage running to the distributor and we are good there...new wires on it. Any suggestions? Thanks guys!!!

jmil1974 · 11-05-2002, 10:47 AM

Module is a possibility. You also might double check your firing order. The wires may be in the wrong places, like all off one space. Don't ask how I know this one.

lpaine · 11-05-2002, 03:28 PM

You're engine only needs 3 things to run-spark, fuel and timing.It sounds like you have fuel, so I suspect spark and-or timing. Your distributor might be out . Easy enough to check. I'm wondering if you might have a bum timing chain. Pull the rocker cover off on the # 1 side and see if both valves are closed at T.D.C. for that cylinder. Also, did you use di-electric grease when you replaced your ignition module? If not, it will overheat and burn out in no time. Best of luck Lpaine

71GMC_3/4T · 11-05-2002, 05:14 PM

Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor while someone tries to crank it. Your timing may be a little off with the new module, but I doubt it. If the timing is way off, your timing chain probably slipped a tooth. When you noticed all the rust, how did the pickup module look? That's the part down low with all the little pointed things on it. If that ain't working right, it could be a pig to start. Bad news is that I think you have to pull the distributor and disassemble it to change it.
Good Luck...

tom hand · 11-05-2002, 05:46 PM

Ussally the "rust" you are talking about is the coil has been fireing straight thru the rotor into the advance mechanism. If this has been happening the advance will be fully advanced at idle ane the motor will run like crap. Parts store "bargin brand" rotors will do this when new. Something else to check out

Gordo · 11-05-2002, 06:17 PM

You have fuel at the line into carb, have you checked the filter into the carb? Have you checked for spark after the engine fails? It still sounds like a fuel problem to me, have you tried to run the engine on carb cleaner or gasoline down the carb (carefully) just to see if it starving for fuel or not?

11-05-2002, 10:37 AM	#1
Jefe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Chandler, Arizona, USA Posts: 299	Engine won't start...possible spark prob? Small block 350...will crank just fine, new starter/new battery and alternator. Doesn't seem to catch though...brand new fuel pump and carb...less than a week old. Pulled the line off of the carb to see if I have enough gas coming out of the pump and no clogs and we are good there. Just put a new coil/cap/rotor and plug wires on the HEI distributor 2 weeks ago. The inside of the distributor looked way way rusty...never seen one so bad. The motor will crank and crank, and just every once and awhile it will catch and I can get it to run alright when I hold open the throttle but once I let it go it slows down and dies really quick. Checked all my vacume lines, all are capped off or in good condition. Thinking the control module might be at fault because it just looked so bad in there...rusty and dirty wires leading to the cap etc. Oh yah checked the voltage running to the distributor and we are good there...new wires on it. Any suggestions? Thanks guys!!!

11-05-2002, 10:47 AM	#2
jmil1974 Ain't we cute? Join Date: May 2002 Location: Friendswood, TX Posts: 700	Module is a possibility. You also might double check your firing order. The wires may be in the wrong places, like all off one space. Don't ask how I know this one. __________________ 69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900

11-05-2002, 03:28 PM	#3
lpaine Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Parksville, B.C. Canada Posts: 637	no start You're engine only needs 3 things to run-spark, fuel and timing.It sounds like you have fuel, so I suspect spark and-or timing. Your distributor might be out . Easy enough to check. I'm wondering if you might have a bum timing chain. Pull the rocker cover off on the # 1 side and see if both valves are closed at T.D.C. for that cylinder. Also, did you use di-electric grease when you replaced your ignition module? If not, it will overheat and burn out in no time. Best of luck Lpaine __________________ 1969 G.M.C 3/4 Ton 920 (Canadian Version) 307 3 speed, currently apart 1998 Chevy 1/2 ton ex cab V-6 5 speed 1967 Chevy SWB - project truck; not started just yet

11-05-2002, 05:14 PM	#4
71GMC_3/4T Weapons Of Construction Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 1,095	Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor while someone tries to crank it. Your timing may be a little off with the new module, but I doubt it. If the timing is way off, your timing chain probably slipped a tooth. When you noticed all the rust, how did the pickup module look? That's the part down low with all the little pointed things on it. If that ain't working right, it could be a pig to start. Bad news is that I think you have to pull the distributor and disassemble it to change it. Good Luck... __________________ 1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO

11-05-2002, 05:46 PM	#5
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	Ussally the "rust" you are talking about is the coil has been fireing straight thru the rotor into the advance mechanism. If this has been happening the advance will be fully advanced at idle ane the motor will run like crap. Parts store "bargin brand" rotors will do this when new. Something else to check out __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

11-05-2002, 06:17 PM	#6
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	You have fuel at the line into carb, have you checked the filter into the carb? Have you checked for spark after the engine fails? It still sounds like a fuel problem to me, have you tried to run the engine on carb cleaner or gasoline down the carb (carefully) just to see if it starving for fuel or not? __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

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