Engine replacement

[killer_mike]

Ok, dudes and dudettes[if any] i will engage on swaping my engine for a brand new one, a 350 that is, and take advantage and check my t-case and trannie. So, what i dont know, is, what is the easiest way to get the bolts that connect the engine and trannie.

I never done an engine swap, nor taken out one of any kind; i have the service manual for my truck but they go around the bush on that. I know that obviously there are certain disconection of hoses, cables, wires and such.
The manual states that for a K10 the trannie and engine should come off together but thats retarded because theres no way i can see for disconecting the t-case and i dont think it would be agood idea to have all that weight on the back of the engine, because something might snap.

[berencam]

Open end wrenches. I used grade 8 bolts and droped my fully assembled 350 with a turbo 400 motor in all at the same time with no issues. I also did not even take the hood off.

[killer_mike]

I was looking underneath, and i think theres a sheetmetal that can be taken off from the cab to access the trannie. Is it possible to get to the bolts from there?

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by killer_mike

I was looking underneath, and i think theres a sheetmetal that can be taken off from the cab to access the trannie. Is it possible to get to the bolts from there?

Maybe, but that's WAY more trouble. You can get under the hood get the top 4 pretty easily (especially if you go ahead and pull the distributor out). The others are usually easier to get from underneath. If you look around it a little, you'll find that the engines bolts are easy to get on these trucks.

[killer_mike]

Yeah, i got underneath again and it looks thats the way to go, for the bottom bolts, the top ones... , im slim but not that slim to slide my hand in there; but i will try that [remove the dist.]

Im going to try to remenberber to get pics while im at it for future reference and will check the other options: remove the top cover on the cab for the trannie to get the trannie/t-case adapter off to slide engine/trannie assy or remove the bolts without touching the trannie.

Thanks guys.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Easy job. Just unbolt the engine from the bell housing. A real long 3 8ths extention with a swivel socket works good.

[Jerblazer72]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Easy job. Just unbolt the engine from the bell housing. A real long 3 8ths extention with a swivel socket works good.

I agree, that's how I have done it several times and it works well. I think my extension is 24 inches with a swivel socket on the end.

[OLDIRON69]

Originally Posted by Jerblazer72

I agree, that's how I have done it several times and it works well. I think my extension is 24 inches with a swivel socket on the end.

That is what I have done, both times. It beats a wrench any time.

[killer_mike]

Well this morning, i went to the garage and the trannie started to slip off the coupler, but what took me a while to figure out was how to take the coupler off the t-case, of wich at some point i was thinking on opening the little plate on the left side of the couple with the 2 little bolts, and BAM, i was missing 2 more bolts, plus i forgot one on the outside.

This thing was dirty as hell man, the whole drive train looked like someone took a poop and threw a bunch of dirt on it, i will take pics, i saved the dirt, is about 2 pounds of it. The t-case, is almost inmaculate on the inside, wich im surprised and glad; the trannie had some metal savings and what looks like some kind of snap ring torn apart, some worn gears, but case is not cracked, shift forks have considerable wear too, but i will deal with that later, i need to get the truck ready for a trip.

[Longhorn Man]

you guys gotta remember, he is working on a 4X4, so the engien is much closer to the firewall.
A couple long extentions and a universal, or even a wobble socket works awesome. However, it can be done with a open/box wrench. Easier with no hood though IMO.

[killer_mike]

Thank you. I have a swivel socket adapter some where in my tool box; but the best course of action regarless how i proceed should be take the hood off, my truck is 21" off the ground, so to take off certain components gets a little dificult with the hood on.

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

you guys gotta remember, he is working on a 4X4, so the engien is much closer to the firewall.
A couple long extentions and a universal, or even a wobble socket works awesome. However, it can be done with a open/box wrench. Easier with no hood though IMO.

[killer_mike]

Ok, i proceeded to remove bolts and all that; i didnt took the inside trannie cover off, but i had to take most of the front off and the frame brace that holds the engine mounts [now that was a pain]; but i encounter a big problem and it was that one bolt on the left header was stuck, obviously this and none of the bolts on this are had anti-seize on them, so it means me buying a new set of headers, i tried to use a grinder to cut the head off but theres not enough space.
And on one of the coments, someone said it should be 8 bolts, in mine was 6 that hold the trannie/engine together; i was thinking on putting the damper on before i get the new engine on, but im looking at better leave off so i can align the trannie input shaft and rotate it with a socket i got from Jegs to turn the crankshaft. Tomorrow i will check on the sparkplugs and see hows the engine, so i can just get new gaskets and have it as a spare.

The nasty thing is that the right side header [the only one i was able to take off, when i was taking of the wrap it had, the thing just spreaded this glass fiber kinda substance and now im itchy

[semperfidoordie]

good work so far man. Please tell me that 2x4 isn't part of the truck keep it up bud

[killer_mike]

Yeah man, now im a full fledged mechanic, my first engine removal ; no that piece of wood had the purpose of supporting the trannie, but it wont go that far down, so i had to place a jack stand

Originally Posted by semperfidoordie

good work so far man. Please tell me that 2x4 isn't part of the truck keep it up bud

[mrein3]

Now is a REALLY good time to unbolt the tranny from the t-case and replace it with a 700r4. The adapter is bolted to the cross member so the only thing holding your tranny up right now is the bolts from the adapter.

When I finally get around to replacing my th350 with a 700r4 I'll be pulling the engine since it has to move forward some anyways.

Oh and I always unbolt the flywheel from the torque converter when I pull engines. You need a good open end wrench for that job. The nice thing about that job in a 4x4 is that even at stock height you can lay under there an not worry about jackstands falling.

[killer_mike]

Nah buddy, im a purist driver, i will keep the SM420, the rockwell havent been able to take it apart yet but i dont think it has mayor problems other than leaking oil, same for the trannie.
Anyone knows if theres an special thing to do to take the t-case and trannie off eachother?

Originally Posted by mrein3

Now is a REALLY good time to unbolt the tranny from the t-case and replace it with a 700r4. The adapter is bolted to the cross member so the only thing holding your tranny up right now is the bolts from the adapter.

When I finally get around to replacing my th350 with a 700r4 I'll be pulling the engine since it has to move forward some anyways.

Oh and I always unbolt the flywheel from the torque converter when I pull engines. You need a good open end wrench for that job. The nice thing about that job in a 4x4 is that even at stock height you can lay under there an not worry about jackstands falling.

[1969 k/10]

It just takes some wrenches and maybe a flathead screw driver to pry it apart.

[killer_mike]

Well, this thing is literaly married to one another, because i even lifted them a bit with the cherry picker and the thing just dont separate; i removed the bolts on both sides of the adaptor thingy between the 2.

Originally Posted by 1969 k/10

It just takes some wrenches and maybe a flathead screw driver to pry it apart.

[1969 k/10]

It will, get some break away and like a pry screw driver.