trouble starting new 406

[Irishpilot]

Hey all, I'm having an issue trying to start my new 406. It has 10.6 compression, edelbrock aluminum e-tec heads, edelbrock performer RPM intake, street demon 770 carb, HEI. I have set the initial static timing at 12 degrees BTDC. I figure this was a good starting place due to the high compression. Anyways, the engine is really hard to start and when it does it only runs for 15-20 seconds. When it does run it sounds good, with no backfiring or roughness, so it makes me think that the timing is good enough. So I'm thinking it is a fuel issue, but I've checked the carb, and gas is going into the bowls. Any ideas?? I need to get this engine fired up so I can break in the cam. Thanks!!

[69_C10]

Hi Irishpilot,
When it stops running does it die all at once or die trying to run? Fuel pressure may be the culprit as well, may try a fuel regulator and tune it down to 5 -5.5 psi. Could be faulty HEI but, not likely. Also double check grounds. I'll stay tuned to the thread to get the resoultion myself. This has my curiosity peaked.

[Irishpilot]

69 C10,

It dies pretty fast, and then it won't start. Plus the starter drains my battery pretty fast. I'm going to check and see if the alternator is working, but even if it wasn't I don't think it would drain the battery in 15 seconds or so. The grounds are good, I've triple-checked them. That is a good idea about the regulator.

Any ideas on how to check if the HEI is the problem? I checked the spark, and I'm getting one, otherwise the engine wouldn't start at all.

[corn]

Sounds almost like a voltage issue. An HEI needs every bit of voltage it can get...

[cdowns]

does it start with a shot of starting fluid in the carb?// after it dies have you pulled the plugs? if they're all wet its a too much gas problem

[67dragtruck]

When you say the starter kills the battery very fast, how fast? I have had starters go bad that would draw an insane amount of amps and kill the battery in a few seconds. If your alternator wasn't working coupled with the starter putting an extra strain on the battery, it could be the culprit. What's the volts gauge doing?

[68gmsee]

Sure sounds like a fuel issue to me.

After you check your voltage problems, I'd definitely check for either not enough fuel flow and/or flooding. Those engines will suck gas out of those floats pretty fast especially if it's running rich.

[Irishpilot]

I get maybe two or three starts before the battery is too low to sufficiently turn over the engine. It is a brand new starter so I don't think it is a faulty starter. I will get a voltmeter on it tonight and see.

[68gmsee]

Voltmeter is okay for checking voltage, but if your battery is weak or has some bad cells it will have trouble finding that. Some auto parts stores will check your battery for free.

You also need a high cranking power battery for high compression engines. I'd try to find a fresh one for testing.

[mr48chev]

Check the simple things first.
As 68msee said, I'd have the battery checked out on a good tester.
Once you have that solved you might want to have the starter checked as even new ones can be defective.

Is every connection good and tight in the electrical system? Good solid metal to metal contact on the ground and good connections to the starter.

The alternator won't effectively charge the battery until the engine runs for several minutes so for the time being it is just along for the ride and isn't an issue.

As mentioned above, HEI distributors like full voltage to operate.

I'm inclined to think you have at least two problems.
1. either a battery or starter that is somewhat marginal or defective.
2. A fuel issue that is either causing fuel starvation or flooding. As the truck won't start back up right after it stalls I'm leaning towards flooding.
3. I'd do as Cdowns suggested and pull a couple of plugs as soon as it stalled and see if they are wet or dry.

One more question. How do you have the HEI hooked up? If you connected it to the original ignition feed that went to the coil you only have about 9 volts to the distributor. When I installed my HEI a few months ago I ran a lead in to the fuse block on my 71 and connected to one of the pins that is hot when the ign is on. I used the pin that is next to the screw at the top in this photo but right side in the truck I ran a 10 gage wire from that to the distributor and just taped the original wires back in along the harness so that I could get them out and use them if I ever needed to.

[Irishpilot]

With the ignition hot, I tested the original ignition wire that connects to the distributor, and it tested at 11.8 volts. I have heard that the original wire will peak at 12, but will go down to 9. Just to be safe, I'll be running another wire to the fuse panel. Thanks so far for the awesome advice! I will be back shortly with some more info!

[Irishpilot]

Problem solved! So after checking the ignition and fuel, I noticed that the electric choke wasn't functioning and I just had to adjust it and it fired right up! Sometimes the most obvious is overlooked. The cam is broken in and now I've got some small adjustments to make.

[68gmsee]

Glad you solved your problem. Depending on how tight that choke was it will definitely starve an engine of air and make it run rich.

A rich running carb or even a maladjusted choke will make an engine blow out dark gray or black smoke form the exhaust. The excess gas will dry out the cylinder walls and cause the engine to be hard to start especially on a new, high compression engine.

[Irishpilot]

Thanks for all the great inputs! Once I get all the little stuff worked out, I'll get pics of the new engine. Now I'm off to solve my next problem...