Converting 3/4 ton to 1/2 ton?

[sighlurr]

Sorry guys if this has already been covered in a previous thread, I couldn't find anything. If it has, please post the link.

As you know, there are a ton of unmolested 3/4 tons out there. If I'm planning on going to dropped spindles in the front, and lowered leafs in the rear, is it as simple as that? Also swapping out the rear end, drive shaft, etc. Do the 1/2 spindles bolt right up? Are the shackles the same for 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton? How involved is this? Anyone have any experience making this swap?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

[Keep on Trucking]

Hey, I used to live in Folsom about 34 years ago.
As long as the donor has the same rear system of suspension as your half ton it should be a bolt in deal If you are going with new spindles and control arms you should be set there to. Im not sure but the 3/4-1 ton ball joints might be bigger than 1/2 tons, so if thats the case you will need new control arms or spindles that can accommodate that size.

[Longhorn Man]

most 3/4 tons are still coil suspentions. unbolt the rear end out, bolt in the 12 bolt, swap driveshafts (or ever just the rear 1/2 of the shaft) from the donor.
Up front, Personally, I just swapped out the whole front cross member.

[61superman]

i am converting a c20 burb to c10 right now. Early classic makes a c20 -c10 conversion drop spindle that uses the ball joints from the c20 all you have to do in bolt it right up nothing else to change. then decide if you are going to use 5 lug or 6 lug rotors, you can even use your stock calipers if you have disc brakes. but no the c10 spindles will not bolt up because of the ball joints.

As for the rear yes all you have to do is get a c10 rear end and swap it out. on my conversion i used the c20 drive shaft they sell conversion u-joint that converts from c20 drive shaft to c10 yolk. I bought the conversion u-joint at NAPA. As mentioned in the earlier post you should have coil springs just buy or cut the desired drop you want for the rear.

i suggest to check out the web page for ECE (early classic ent.) goto the spindles page and read up, they also have a technical section where they converted a burb from c20 to c10 and showed you how they did it step by step
those guys can answer any questions you have

hope this helps

[lpaine]

The track-bar & brackets are different, too; you'll have to grind/drill/hammer and use a lot of cursing to get those 40 year old rivets out-don't ask me how I know. Lew

[Shyguy]

I found the u-joint to go from a 3/4 ton driveshaft to a 1/2 ton rear-end at Fischer's Auto Parts store #348.

I now work at O'Reilly's and found the same one there for about the same price, right at $30.

Danny

[70rs/ss]

If you just want to lower it, they sell a dropped spindle for the 3/4 tons and the same dearched rear leaves as well. *-lug is the "new 6-lug" and eveyone who makes wheels, makes a fancy 8-lug wheel. I purposely went the other direction, 1/2 to 3/4 ton because I had the 3/4 ton stuff and my 2wd blazer was missing the spindles, etc. I have 1/2 ton dropped springs, and will get the 3/4 ton dropped spindles, as well as dropped coils for the rear. I had a Dana 60 coil sprung 3/4 ton rear too. The 3/4 ton stuff is heavier duty, but not way heavy weight wise, so no real penalty and a lot of benefit (bigger brakes, stronger rear, and the 1/2-3/4 stuff interchanges almost bolt in (except the 3/4 lower baljoint is bigger than the 1/2 ton, but still fits in the same lower arm, just the shaft is a bigger diameter).


Sorry for the book, but a slammed 3/4 looks wicked and nobody counts lug nuts, at least nobody I care about!!