Stainless plumbing

[smashingchuck]

Alright guys, I need to plumb everything for my truck. Air lines, brake lines, gas lines... and I want to do it in stainless.

What I'm looking for is a place that can sell me lines, fittings, and a flaring tool. And I mean a decent flaring tool, not the KB Tools one that breaks when you try to flare the first line.

I'm also looking for some advice on this subject so... let's discuss.

[Turbo85GMC]

I bought a pre-bent set of stainless brake lines from Inline Tube and they look like good quality. I haven't installed them yet, so I can't speak on the fit.

[smashingchuck]

prebent is not going to work for my application.... My master cylinder is under the dash the the proportioning valve is going to be under the cab!

[bagged69c10]

Try inline tube or classic tube.

[N2TRUX]

Try www.classictube.com. They sell stainless tubing (duh) as well as many types of benders, etc. I just looked at an ad they ran in Street Rodder mag. The item that caught my attention was a "Tubing Coil Straightener" . They ship the tubing in "lengths" or "coils" and the Tubing Coil Straightener allows you to be the more economical coils and supposedly straighten it out.

I have never used them, so maybe someone else can let us know how they are.

[jlaird]

I got my stainless line from inline tube. I got the universal street rod kit. It came with straight length pieces of tube. I got a blue point (snap on) flaring tool off ebay. Everything went smoothly. (for once) Here are some pics:

[bagged69c10]

Very clean work. Did it come with the clamps? Did you double flare it?

[jlaird]

yes, the kit came with the clamps and I did double flare it.

[lolife99]

jlaird,... That's obviously not your first time running hard lines. Looks really nice. What's a good price on a Blue Point flaring tool?

Also,... how many different size benders do you have?
3/8", 5/16", and 1/4"?

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by lolife99

jlaird,... That's obviously not your first time running hard lines. Looks really nice. What's a good price on a Blue Point flaring tool?

Also,... how many different size benders do you have?
3/8", 5/16", and 1/4"?

Actually it was my first time doing it. I'm just meticulous and stuff like this and it takes me forever and a day to do things

I think I paid like $75 for the flaring tool off ebay, but I noticed sears (craftsman) had what looked like the same one for less. If you want a good one that will last you a lifetime and will flare anything you throw at it, look at Rigid.

The bender I have is nothing fancy, its one that bends multiple sizes.

This weekend maybe I will do a little tutorial for you guys.

[scotts62]

Cool jlaird looks good! That would be cool, i would like to do mine in steel.

[badblu97]

I have been kicking this idea around for by bucket, and seeing these pics makes me REALLY want to do it now!!!! Looks killer! can we get a tutorial or something? tricks and tips? what is double flaring? AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by badblu97

I have been kicking this idea around for by bucket, and seeing these pics makes me REALLY want to do it now!!!! Looks killer! can we get a tutorial or something? tricks and tips? what is double flaring? AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!

a double flare is basicly the wall of the line bent double when forming a flare like this _// compared to a single flare _/
the double flare takes a couple more steps to make but will be more resistant against vibrations leaking and the sort

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

a double flare is basicly the wall of the line bent double when forming a flare like this _// compared to a single flare _/
the double flare takes a couple more steps to make but will be more resistant against vibrations leaking and the sort

Yes but from what I have read you cannot double flare stainless due to the material work hardening. Thus the 37* single flare and AN/JIC fittings.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by dropd80s

Yes but from what I have read you cannot double flare stainless due to the material work hardening.

This is not true at all. This is a common misconception because people do not know the proper procedures and do not use the correct tools.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by jlaird

This is not true at all. This is a common misconception because people do not know the proper procedures and do not use the correct tools.

I would agree with the proper tools. I tried (just for the heck of it) to put a 45 degree flare on a piece of my 3/8 tubing while I was waiting for my flaring tool to come in. The cone did nothing but push the bar (clamp) right off the tubing.

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by jlaird

This is not true at all. This is a common misconception because people do not know the proper procedures and do not use the correct tools.

I stand corrected.

[cparman]

The Couplers are all stainess. They consist of a nut and ferrel ( sp ) it is no different than the brass ones you can get at the hardware store. Except that the ones I bought were rated at 10,000 psi or something crazy like that. They can be loosened and tightened if you need to. My Chevelle was a carbbed car, and never had a leak. I used a couple of short pieces of their push lock hose without clamps. I would use this stuff again! Made me a bit nervous, but I saw my ex girlfriend about a month ago, and she was dry as a bone. The new owner loves my Chevelle. HE SMOKES IN HER!

[smashingchuck]

Here is the exact flaring tool I ended up with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

I tried using cheaper ones (not built to do stainless specific flares) and they flat out wouldn't work on the particular stainless tubing I used. I am using 37 degree flares with JIC hydrolic fittings. All I have done now is the about half the air lines. I ended up getting everything I needed (with the exception of the flaring tool) at a local hydrolic line shop.

[draggin86]

anyone else looking for a flare tool this one from eastwood caught my eye


http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT


this would probably also be a good tool to have. I'll be investing in both of them.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=16670

[smashingchuck]

Thats a 45 degree double flare. If you plan on using JIC fittings you will need a 37 degree single flare.

[jlaird]

smashingchuck, are those tube fittings the pushloc flareless type like swaglok's or are they AN (JIC) nut and sleeve type?

The braided stainless in the first picture, I'm assuming you ran that from your bag, out the front crossmember? Is that also a hydraulic hose? Those usually have NPT ends correct?

[smashingchuck]

The braided is the leader hose coming from my York , which came with the kit from Air Lift. I've used all JIC fittings so far which have the 37 degree flare, and are the same as an -AN. Any of my fittings that aren't flared are 1/2 NPT, which is way overkill, but my system was plumber with 1/2 line before so I didn't want to have to buy new valves, bags and tanks. I have no experience with the swagloks. I'm using hard line all the way to the bags... I just don't see the need to run braided anywhere since the whole chassis is rigid.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

The braided is the leader hose coming from my York , which came with the kit from Air Lift. I've used all JIC fittings so far which have the 37 degree flare, and are the same as an -AN. Any of my fittings that aren't flared are 1/2 NPT, which is way overkill, but my system was plumber with 1/2 line before so I didn't want to have to buy new valves, bags and tanks. I have no experience with the swagloks. I'm using hard line all the way to the bags... I just don't see the need to run braided anywhere since the whole chassis is rigid.

OK, so the tube fittings consist of a threaded nut and sleeve, correct?

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by jlaird

OK, so the tube fittings consist of a threaded nut and sleeve, correct?

Sorry... yes. I haven't tested the system yet for leaks, but my guess is going to be they work quite well. I also have a sealer that i apply when they go together.