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11-27-2002, 09:01 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
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Turn signal switch replacement?
I need to install a new switch and was curious as to how I get the plug thru the housing on the column. There is an oval in the bottom of it but the new plug will not fit thru. Do the wires unplug somehow from the harness and then plug back in?.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
11-27-2002, 09:25 AM | #2 |
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Once you remove the turn signal, grasp the bezel and rotate it to your left and and partailly remove the housing. You will find that you have room to remove the wiring and plug.
This assumes that you have unplugged the harness and removed the wiring harness shield. If it is an automatic, you have to be carefull of the fiber optics line for the transmission shift indicator as it can interfer with the wiring removal. Jim |
11-27-2002, 10:06 AM | #3 |
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Jim,
The housing rotates a little bit but the oval is only about a half inch long. The plug is huge in comparison. It looks impossible unless I cut the harness in half and fish the wires thru and resplice them. I know this is not correct but it doesn't make sense yet. I'm electrically challenged!
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
11-27-2002, 10:50 AM | #4 |
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The housing should rotate approximately 45 degrees, kind of like a radiator cap. The housing can be removed, but with the wireing in it, you have to take them together. I assume that all three of the turn signal holddown screws are completely removed.
Try pushing down slightly as you turn, the housing will come off and there is no need to cut your wires. Good luck! Jim |
11-27-2002, 11:20 AM | #5 |
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If you can't get the plug through the hole, de-pin it.
I did it that way with mine. Be sure to write down where all the wires were before you pull them. You can pull the pins if you gently push in on the little clicker spring tab on the pin itself. Push in on the clicker and pull back on the wire. It should come out fairly easily. Before you put it back together, it's a good idea to use a small sharp knife and gently bend the clickers back out to where they were. When I did mine, I pulled a piece of wire up through the column when I pulled the old T/S wiring out. I used this wire to pull the new wires back down through. Put a generous hook in the wire and tape the snot out of it with electrical tape or you'll end up with the new harness halfway back through. My T/S switch came with an adapter cable that went from straight to curved. I ended up splicing the correct end back into my truck harness as the connector that was on it was hosed. When I was changing mine out, I finally figured out why the lights were doing some wacky things. The previous owner had done some creative splicing for some unknown reason. Once that was out of there and a new switch was in, it worked great. Good Luck!
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1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO |
11-27-2002, 11:52 AM | #6 |
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Thanks guys!. I have so many electrical gremlins right now I'm going crazy.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
11-27-2002, 05:36 PM | #7 |
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good timing...
I am about to do this in my 68 because my lights are screwed up... I have done it before, but the column was out at the time... maybe this info will save my new neighbors from a few cuss words....
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11-27-2002, 09:59 PM | #8 |
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Location: Maine
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SKIN ANOTHER CAT
WITHOUT PULLING HALF THE COLUMN GUTS out of there it is nearly impossible to fish it through. . . So don't. The entire canceller mechinism is very rebuildable in the column. Yank one out of a junker set it on the seat next to you and your beer and replace the busted piece or pieces using your newly acquired donor. lube it in all the right places and drive on
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11-29-2002, 07:03 AM | #9 |
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I tried to send you a PM on the flasher button, but your mailbox is full. Anyway, I don't know if the old button will fit on the new switch. I have never tried to change them. I just usually get a used turn signal switch and swap it out.
You may want to try taking your old switch apart. There may be a way to do it. Good luck! Jim |
11-29-2002, 12:15 PM | #10 |
Weapons Of Construction
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I don't think the old button will fit on the new switch. I woulda if I coulda, but there was something wrong about it. Can't rightly remember what it was though.
The new button doesn't look too tacky, just more modern... I liked the old one better though.
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1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO |
11-29-2002, 01:19 PM | #11 |
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Thanks again guys.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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