Where do I start? (sorry kinda long)

[redrider036]

Hey, thanks to everybody who is willing to help a newbie out here. I have a 1970 k10 4wd half ton. It is parked on my dads property in Minnesota and I will be picking it up this summer. While i was up there this past winter, I checked the vin and there is a C instead of a K. the truck is 4 wheel drive so I supposed parts where interchanged. Anyway, I am so overwhelmed. The box is rusted out, along with the rockers and inside of the doors about a half inch on the floor. the rest of the floor is good although I have not looked underneath the truck yet. I am renting my house right now so i am concerned about doing too much cutting or welding in my garage, but this truck WILL get done, it means a lot to me. The truck ran and drove great when my Dad parked it, of course, that was six years ago. When I get this truck down here, any opinoins of the best way to get it started would be very appreciated, and I do not take offense to constructive criticism either. I am considering looking for someone who is looking for side work and getting a hand there. Thank you for your time all!

[68350]

Well, for starters I would check all the fluids and make sure everything is on the up and up. If everything is good, you might consider taking the gas line off(rubber) and running a hose to the metal gas line(so it's good gas). If it has points, they might be bad so if it trys to start and doesn't, that might be the first thing to check. As far as rust in concerned, keep an eye out and you might find a cheap parts truck that doesn't have much(kinda hard in minnesota, land of 10000 salt trucks). Have fun with it!

[tim21391]

do what i did... order parts little by little... and make sure you got plenty of time to work on it..

[clay68c10]

Get it running and worry about the rust later.
Sounds like a cool truck!

[hilandr452]

Dump the oil before you start it and check for water in the pan. Pull out the plugs and check for rust on the electrodes. When you pull out the plugs, pour in a little marvel mystery oil, or whatever your grand dad says to use in each cylinder. Dump the radiator and check the fluid for oil. Dump the fuel tank and replace with new gas. Make sure there are no mice in the air cleaner or carburetor. ( no kidding ) If it passes all these tests and the points are good, fill up yer fluids and replace the oil filter with a non Fram type filter (Fram is terrible, there's a thread on that somewhere here) , old oil filters after sitting for years could easily be distributed throughout your oil galleys. Crank her a few times with the coil wire off to distribute the new oil and get things lubed up and the carburetor primed (you may need to manually prime the carb). Let 'er rip brother and enjoy the new ride!!

Dan

[redrider036]

Thanks guys. The truck currently has a 305 in it and has been converted from a manual (three on the tree) to an automatic. Before I moved to Arizona I pulled off the carb and sure enough there was a mouse nest in the intake, lol. I can't honestly say whether the transmission conversion was done properly or not, but my Dad drove it for some time after the work was done. I am probably gonna have somebody look at the truck and get it going for me, I found a guy on craigslist who's nephew I went to elementary school with- small world huh? He seems to know his stuff and I just don't have to time to fly up there and work on the truck and come back home....I have a job and no time to be up in MN at this point. Here's the crazy part. My intentions are to drive the truck back to AZ. I always like a good adventure! I will only do this if the truck is in ok shape to do it upon further inspection, only time will tell really. Yea, I got a few screws loose upstairs lol.

[Chris H]

Just to throw in a few cents here:
Unless you have a complete and total love for this exact truck, hauling (or trying to drive) a rusty MN truck to AZ doesn't seem like a great idea to me.
I have lived in both places; was in Phoenix and now near Rochester (I would be glad to help you on this end where I can if it is reasonably close). Do yourself a favor and find a truck locally. You can probably buy a decent driver truck for what it would cost you to come to MN and take one home.

Either that, or invest in an oxy/acetylene torch, a right angle grinder with a good selection of wheels, a sawzall and lots of penetrating oil. Dont forget a good pair of work gloves and keep your tetanus shot current. You are going to need all these things just to change 1 shock absorber. Now multiply that by every bolt that holds your truck together... hear me know and believe me later! You will hate yourself!

Now I am not oblivious to sentimental attachement, but if dollars and sanity mean anything to you

[redrider036]

Yea, I have heard that a lot. Everyone thinks I am crazy and rightfully so....even my Dad. I will be working on this truck. Thanks for the advice though.

[Arizona oldguy]

Kinda have to agree with they guy in Rochester, I live in the other place and it is not that hard to find one here, on the other hand I understand where you are coming from wanting to fix that one. Have you thought of a tow dolly, adventure is adventure but a nightmare is a nightmare, and you do have some time constraints. Old trucks can be hard to drive 2000 miles. Good luck enjoy your adventure and the work.