Need help with my new 68 C10...

[Row]

I want to lift my front end because it sits too low for my taste...it looks like the previouse owner cut the springs to lower it...what year trucks can I get used springs from that will work on my truck? I'm looking for a range of years. Also, I've never lifted a truck and a friend of mine said all I have to do it put "spacers" and that will lift it..? Are spacers a good idea? Safe? Here's my truck...

[Gray Ghost]

67-72 springs will fit...check the parts board here on the site...thought I saw a pair for sale.

Cut springs equal rough ride usually. You could order new springs for $100 a pair from ECE to cure the problem.

PS...never used spacers...they just don't seem like a good idea to me.

[Row]

Thanx! What about the install? Is that a hard job to do? I have limited experiance with these trucks. Will I need special tools for this job?

[Classic Heartbeat]

Not a bad job to do with limmited tools. Floor jack, jack stands, 15/16" socket, needle nose plyers, and a 3 pound hammer should do the job. Sometimes if the spindle is being stubborn, you may need a pickle fork also.

1) Jack the front of the truck up by the large crossmember under the motor.
2) Place jack stands under the frame rails just forward of the front of the front cab mounts and let the jack back down. (Making sure that the tires remain off the ground)
3) Remove the front tires and wheels.
4) Place floor jack under the lower "A" arm and jack it up untill it is about 1/8" away from touching it.
5) Remove the cotter pin that is keeping the castle nut from backing off on the lower ball joints.
6) Back the castle nut off about 1/4".
7) Using the 3 pound hammer, smack the side of the spindle where the lower ball joint is. (This may take a couple of good hard hits)
8) Once the spindle pops loose of the lower ball joint then you jack the floor jack up to slightly lift the lower "A" arm up to relieve the spring tention from the ball joint and castle nut.
9) Remove the castle nut.
10) Lower the jack slowly to alow the "A" arm to open up.
11) Remove the old spring.
12) Replace with the new one making sure that you place it correctly into the pocket and jack the lower "A" arm back up. (This will take some quardination or extra hands. You need to make sure the spring is placed correctly, and the spindle lines up on the ball joint all at the same time.
13) Once the ball joint enters the spindle enough to start the castle nut, spin the castle nut on.
14) Then you can jack the "A" arm up untill it tries to lift the truck. (Then stop)
15) Tighten the castle nut to seat the ball joint and line it up to place the cotter pin back in it.
16) Replace tires and wheels and let the truck back down.
Done deal!!
Hope this helps. WES

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Classic Heartbeat

Not a bad job to do with limmited tools. Floor jack, jack stands, 15/16" socket, needle nose plyers, and a 3 pound hammer should do the job. Sometimes if the spindle is being stubborn, you may need a pickle fork also.

1) Jack the front of the truck up by the large crossmember under the motor.
2) Place jack stands under the frame rails just forward of the front of the front cab mounts and let the jack back down. (Making sure that the tires remain off the ground)
3) Remove the front tires and wheels.
4) Place floor jack under the lower "A" arm and jack it up untill it is about 1/8" away from touching it.
5) Remove the cotter pin that is keeping the castle nut from backing off on the lower ball joints.
6) Back the castle nut off about 1/4".
7) Using the 3 pound hammer, smack the side of the spindle where the lower ball joint is. (This may take a couple of good hard hits)
8) Once the spindle pops loose of the lower ball joint then you jack the floor jack up to slightly lift the lower "A" arm up to relieve the spring tention from the ball joint and castle nut.
9) Remove the castle nut.
10) Lower the jack slowly to alow the "A" arm to open up.
11) Remove the old spring.
12) Replace with the new one making sure that you place it correctly into the pocket and jack the lower "A" arm back up. (This will take some quardination or extra hands. You need to make sure the spring is placed correctly, and the spindle lines up on the ball joint all at the same time.
13) Once the ball joint enters the spindle enough to start the castle nut, spin the castle nut on.
14) Then you can jack the "A" arm up untill it tries to lift the truck. (Then stop)
15) Tighten the castle nut to seat the ball joint and line it up to place the cotter pin back in it.
16) Replace tires and wheels and let the truck back down.
Done deal!!
Hope this helps. WES

Good writeup! My only suggestion would be making Step 4 bold. I know a guy that just loosened off the nut on the balljoint and when it popped the threads pulled out of the rest of the nut and the spring almost took his head off. Its not a good idea to do this without a jack under the A arm even if you have a spring compressor.

[jbristo67]

dont use spacers

[gcburdic]

nice write up Wes!!!....rep points for your time!!!

[Classic Heartbeat]

Thanks gcburdic. I try to help when I can. WES

[Row]

Classic Heartbeat...ur amazing thanx for the detailed info!!! Everyone else, I appreciate the input! I start looking for springs tomorrow!!! I'll post pics as soon as I'm done. Again you all are awesome!

[Kager67]

It's not a bad idea to run a chain through the A arm and spring...especially for a first timer. Have fun!

[Classic Heartbeat]

Thanks guys, I hope it helps everyone out. 67_C-30, I bolded #4... WES