overheating problems. Need help!

[72c10lover16]

My truck keeps spittin antifreeze out the side release spout or whatever. I already tried flushing the whole system and putting a 180 thermostat in it. It didnt seem to work it only seems worse.
Somebody please help

[BluTrukker]

is it overheating or just spitting a little out? My 68 does that every once in a while, but it never overheats. It does not have a coolant tank, so when the antifreeze gets hot it expands and has to go somewhere, so it spits it out the overflow. But it is only a few drops.

[Classic Heartbeat]

If you fill the radiator and engine clear full while the water is cold, the radiator will always spit water out as it warms up. This is because the water expands as it warms and doesn't have anywhere to go but out the overflow. It will stop once the water reaches a level that allows for the expantion. If you do not want to loose the water and anti-freeze that you add to the system, then an overflow bottle would need to be purchased. WES

[MrC1]

Here's a few things to consider....

1) Do the hoses collapse at all when you rev the engine?
2) Can you confirm good water pump output? I've seen more than one water pump with a rotted away impeller.
3) Do you get pressure onthe system (are the hoses firm) when warmed up?
4) Is your fan clutch good?
5) Do you have a fan shroud?

Not sure if any of this will solve it, but maybe a few good things to consider before you go nuts.

[70 Suburban]

Also what cap is on your radiator.

[kulturekat]

mine was overheating i went through all the normal routine check the thermostat, check the hoses i even went as far as to check the water pump itself. the last result was the radiator cap. i went and got a new one and it fixed it right up. so dont forget to check that if its old corroded or is not getting a good seal change it for a cheap fix and youre done.cant believ i overlooked that.

[texanidiot25]

While my heater core was leaking (and steaming up my cab one night, finally found the problem) my radiator was wild with the amount of coolant that was in my overflow bottle. It was sucking it down and over flowing at random, but never over heating.

[72c10lover16]

i figured out the problem.. or my dad did anyways.. my radiator is shot. the fins are corroded inside i beleive and its not allowing the antifreeze to flow fast enough so when i rev it up and then let off it overflows.. I dont have the money for a new radiator either. they are around 200 bucks. I barely have 60 in my account.. it looks like its just gonna have to sit for a while longer.. the problems just never end....

[texanidiot25]

I'm only saying this because my rear is being saved by it right now, but pay out the 20 to get a subscription here and post in the classifieds. There's tons of guys where who glad to help. Me and my gas tank woes can account for that...

If all else fails, get on Cragslist.com and post a WTB ad in the car parts section.

[72c10lover16]

well i dont know if i want to get another used one. i mean what if the same thing happens. im just getting so frustrated. i just got the truck back together about 2 weeks ago cause i was painting the front end and it sat for about 4-5 months while we were slowly doing that and then i got it together and blam overheating. i tried flushing it and everything. I just hate waisting my time for nothing. People look at my truck and thinks its a pos. i hate it.

[texanidiot25]

I'm in the middle of that crap too. Just got my truck on the road last week, but fuel tank rust issues are keeping it off the road this week.

On craigslist and here, you might find one that's still good for dirt cheap, and that can keep you on the road for the time being.

[72c10lover16]

do you think anyone on here has a good radiator?

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by 72c10lover16

do you think anyone on here has a good radiator?

By the time you pay for one and pay to have it shipped, you would be better off having it rodded out at a radiator shop. Last time I had one done it cost about $40. Could be higher now.

I had mine done couple of times until about 3 years ago when I had the guy put in a 3 row core.

[mrein3]

I had a brand new 4-core shipped to my door a few years ago for under $200.

You might want to hop on the google and see what you can find.

[70 Suburban]

you can alway have it roded out.

[sjarrett71]

Yeah, call a couple radiator shops and get price estimates to have it cleaned. I've never had to have one done but I don't imagine it would be REAL expensive.

[72c10lover16]

mrein3 where did you get yours from?

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by 72c10lover16

mrein3 where did you get yours from?

I did a quick search on this board and found:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=181575


I hope that helps.

[ChevLoRay]

It's always a good idea to put a pressure tester on your cooling system. It will allow you to find any leaks and let you tighten the clamps that are loose (you'd be surprised). You can also test the radiator cap with these testers. If it is bad, you'll see it pretty quick.

Like Wes said, fill the radiator when everything is cold, paying attention to the "Fill Level" marking on the side tank.

But a radiator that is not flowing properly may or may not be flushable or capable of being "rodded out". Sometimes, it takes another core. If it comes to that, a new radiator may be your best bet. I bought one for my truck for less than $140....a four-row core radiator w/automatic transmission cooler line connections.

As an aside, my school bus with its hi-torque cummins 5.9L engine....well the temp guage was at 220 degrees, steam was flowing into the driver's compartment and antifreeze was running out from under the front of the flat nose of my bus. Turns out the radiator had some serious blockage because someone mixed antifreezes (red and green) AND there was some serious pressure because it blew out a freeze plug. I've never seen that before, but it's the only diesel I've driven.