another dual battery question... original though i promise.. :)

[hereinmissoula]

i have a 1968 k20 that looks like it was camper equipped... this is somewhat of a base model, but does have hd rear springs and a dual battery setup... don't know if factory.. don't think it is... anyway, there is a resistor/transistor/capacator looking thing on my fender with wires from alt and battery going to it.. looks real old

also there is only a small wire coming from the positive on the aux battery...

maybe something use to be there when there was a camper.....

only reason i ask is the wiring is old and i will be replacing it and was thinking of just doing positive to positive....

what is the transistor/isolator??? thing on my fender.. looks like there is two capacators on the top... i will take a pic later and post..

hope this is enough information...

thanks guys

[kwmech]

The "resistor thingy" was for trailer brakes. (If it's waht I am thinking of). If you have 'factory' dual batteries, there will be a relay on the side of the aux. battery tray mount. I took all that stuff out on my GMC camper special and upgraded the wiring and alternator and used a motorhome continuous duty 200a relay

[Longhorn Man]

I have my aux battery run parallel with the stock battery for twice the cranking amps.
Do you have any photos of your set up?
Is it listed on the SPID?
The dealer was able to install the exact same parts as the factory did, my first longhorn was like that. All stock parts, but not on the SPID. The widow of the original owner told me that he had ordered the parts over the counter from the dealer.

[hereinmissoula]

ready for a dumb question, lol. where is spid... is that the glove box one...

i have the build sheet that is attached to gas tank behind the seat...

some dip**** did a ****ty install on dual tanks in the bed... it has the gas tank valve selector by the seat like i have seen factory, but it is not...

my guess is that this truck was "MODIFIED" by an rv center.... i do not have a relay on the aux battery tray... but the way it is mounted looks factory, is actually a good clean install... looks like chevy might have done that way...

i have looked at the wiring coming in and out of this isolater/resistor/whatever thing and think it has to do with the charging, since these battery's were never run parallel, as far as i can tell.... the aux battery is not even being used right now (no thick wire coming off), just a small wire coming from the resistor thing...

i will take pics later, i'm gonna go prostitute my plasma and get 30 bucks, lol

times are rough, lol... gas money (even though im changing the timing chain right now... the cam sprocket was so worn down the teeth look like ocean waves, lol....)

[El Jay]

Does it look like the gizmo in this thread?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ferrerid=32400

If it does, there's an explanation down around post #10.

[Longhorn Man]

the fuel tanks you mention, do they have stainles square doors on the side of the bed? That was a very common add on, some at the dealer, some at shops, some at RV places... If you look around on these trucks, you'll see a BUNCH of them.
Yes, the SPID is the option sheet in the glove box, if you have a real build sheet, you are LUCKY! Very few survive this long.

[hereinmissoula]

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truck needs work, although the drivetrain (besides the ol 307) is pretty good...

just gettin started here fellas... though being young and havin kids my budget is small, even smaller with economy, lol

timing chain pic in here too

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[hereinmissoula]

sorry crappy pics.... phones, lol...

[hereinmissoula]

yes i have the build sheet... found out what my transistor thingy is, lol... it is a type of isolator... it was for the camper wiring, if it was drianing one battery, it would not let you drain the others.... do not need it anymore so i am getting rid of it. this is a custom made piece, talked to the guy who made it!!! old aircraft parts, just a heat sink and two diodes...

also, my tanks are another crap job. the cut 3/4 of the whole's for the fillers and bent the metal down (on the inside) and left it, didn't even cut it off....

i think that i am going to just put another bed on this truck as there is some damage to it anyway...

im going to parallel these batteries... any special thing i need to do for the alternator wiring????

once again, you guys have awesome knoledge..

p.s. the build sheet looks as though it had never been touched since the day it was made... it was in the original (i'm assuming) spot right on the gas tank.. pretty cool, but it is a 3/4 307 4x4.. nothing real special... does get the 4.56's though :-)

[Longhorn Man]

No special wiring to do, nothing fancy. Pull out all the stuff you aren't gonna use, then get a battery cable and run the positive on the drivers side, to the positive on the passenger side, then the single cable to the starter. I like grounding one battery to the frame and the other to the engine, but in reality, both to the engine would provide more amps to the starter.