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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,746
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Sb 400 question
I was in Pick and Pull today, and I saw a chevy small block lying on the ground, all that was left of it was the crank, rods, pistions, and not much else. This is what mortech said about the casting number 3951509....400...74-80...2 It also has 010 under where the timing chain would go. I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and just from what I could see, the cylenders don't show much wear. I have kind of been looking for a 400 block for a while, and I was just wondering if this one would be worth buying, or if I would be better off looking for something better.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: yucaipa ca
Posts: 580
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pull the rod and main caps and check the crank. check starter mounting pad for breakage. if all looks good buy it. cant imagine anyone wanting heads and intake. gota be a reason its layin there.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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heads are good flowing some guys put them on their 350's
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#4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,746
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Well, I don't know why someone would just take the heads and manifold, but out of the probably 50 s/b chevys that I saw, over half of the were missing at least one of those things. For that matter, why would you want 4 used pushrods, or why are there dissambled q-jets all over the ground. lol But anyway, my point is that while we porbably wouldnt' take most of that stuff, some of the people seem to want it. anyway, I didn't think to look at the starter pad on the 400, that's a good idea. other than that it looks good though. I guess I will see what anyone else has to say about it, and I will go back and look again after christmas.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Chandler, Arizona, USA
Posts: 299
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If all the bolt holes are looking good, (no broken bolts or taps etc. or stripped) I say take it. Just built my first 400 and installed it in a Nova I have...really quick...rev's fast too. Good Luck!
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Redding,CA...USA
Posts: 4,736
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how much do they want for it?...im looking for one myself...ask if they will let you return it if it checks out bad...if its 100.00 or less, and you dont want it..ill take it..the 509 is a good block
Jim
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#7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Doesn't it need to say 10 20 to be a high nickle block? I think 10 is nothing special if memory serves...although...400's are all special, esp the 2 bolt ones.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,746
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I know someone was talking about how the 010 blocks were special. I looked it over fairly well today, but I will have to see if I can go look again and probably buy it. You can take something back if it's bad, but, you have to exchange it, and with something like that... lol I think that's kind of funny that I looked though the whole yard for one and I ended up almost tripping over it. So it is rare enough that I should buy it if it doesn't have any visible damage?
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#9 |
Goodbye Darlin'
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Coupeville, WA USA
Posts: 330
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I have the same casting (509) that I'm rebuilding right now. It was rebuilt in 1989 by a previous owner who had the cylinders bored to .060 over, the crank and rods were ground down .010. I don't hot rod (too much) but I don't baby it either.
Point being when we disassembled the engine it was extremely clean inside, the lifters slid right out and there was virtually no ring around the cylinders. Even with the over-bore I've never had any water jacket or overheating problems. We even found the oil sump disconnected from pump and lying in the bottom of the pan. The only "special" care I've given to it is regular maintenance. It seems to be a solid casting and I've heard the 2-bolt mains were actually stronger than 4-bolts in the 400sb (removes too much material from the block). I like it. ![]()
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#10 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lebanon, Tennessee
Posts: 1,372
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71Blazer, be careful with that .060" over 400 block. Ya gotta keep in mind that these were siamesed-bore blocks. Where the rest of the SB family had a water jacket between the cylinders, the 400 didn't.
I guess that I'm lucky. I came across a "virgin" (stock bore) '70 vintage 400 block. It's a 3951511 (F2 70), 2-bolt. I will over-bore it, but no more than .040". Just a friendly word. Hope I didn't step on your toes. Jeff ![]()
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Jeff '67 short Fleet; my ongoing project. '66 long Fleet; my original "baby." Live life or bust trying. |
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#11 |
Account Suspended
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Location: NC
Posts: 1,129
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4oo
Grab it .I have sold several 400 blocks with just crank & rods as rebuilders for $250 ea.They are getting harder to find every day .I have 4 left and none are for sale.Try to get a return if cracked deal if possible and have it magnafluxed as so as you can get it disassembled.Also you can visually check for cracks between cylinders at steam holes .44o hp 490 ft lb torque dynoed from a 030 400 built with good parts but not exotic HI $.I have about $2500 invested and assembled it myself to run on 93 octane pump gas. It is an unbeatable combo for the $ invested in my opinion. Has run a best of 8.60 in 1/8 mile with 10 inch slicks bolted on after I drove to the track.This is in a 3200 lb swb 69 GMC with 373 posi 350t with 3200 rpm converter at the time.Only problem was I busted two rear ends in only four passes.Cut mounts off factory rear and welded onto dana 60 with spool and 538 gears.Put in power glide with 4500 converter and truck went 7.32 on first pass.Then track guy said I had to meets pro specs so truck got cage,harnesses,bigger slicks etc.Best pass after all modifications was 7.16 .Have since pulled motor and sold truck witch now has $15ooo 468 with Rehr Morrison aluminum heads and ladder bar setup.Best time with new combo is 6.37 Thats alot of $ for less than a second.I guess you can tell I,m very proud of my little mighty mouse.
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,746
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TTT I am going to go back and look at it thursday or friday, but I just want to see if anyone else has any opinions about it.
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tennessee, Morristown
Posts: 355
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BUY IT!!!!!
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#14 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Stillwater, OK 74075
Posts: 2,936
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I just am about done with my new 406. And it's a 509 casting, 2 bolt mains. If you can, pull the heads real quick and see if there are .030/.040 pistons in there. Most will have it stamped on top of the piston.
The stock 400 heads are nothing really...but the block and crank will be worth it. And if you build it, don't use the stock 5.585" 400 rods, step up to at least the 5.7" (350) rods. Good luck! |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,746
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It dosen't have any heads, but yeah, I am going to check that. I think it is still the stock bore though. Hopefuly I can go get it tomorrow.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
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Well, I went back and looked at the 400. It looked pretty good from the top, but I turned it over and it had spun the #5 rod bearing, and broke the rod, so both the carnk and the block were ruined. Oh well, I did find some other good stuff so it was worth going back, but I wish that block had been good.
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: yucaipa ca
Posts: 580
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told ya. i hunt 4 pick a part yards 1 a week and have met many guys getting and reselling parts for a living. it has been my experience that they miss very little. parts left on the ground have to be checked very carefully. i have learned this the hard way.
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