396 Big Block starter? 1970? help?

[bsgmcc20]

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...i-356000_w.jpg

Ok, so i have this 70 gmc with a stock 396 with a automatic tranny. The starter has been chirping and today the solenoid started to spin with no flywheel engagement. So I crawled under her today to yank it out. taking off the heat shield from the starter. ( yes the battery is disconnected) and start to go after the positive cable and the ingnition wire. the cable post comes off in my hand with the bolt and nuts from the solenoid with out even using a wrench. So I have to take her off now for sure. As I get to the Staggered bolts holding her up backing them off one of the cast "ears" falls an inch from my forehead on the ground. Great this thing is in in pieces. So i take it to the "parts changers" to get a re-manned starter. And there computers are telling me that my truck only came with a 350 or 402. Nice to see there computers are up to date on motors. LOL

So I call a mobile mech. I know who shoots me to his parts guy. They tell me that most of the starters they have to fit a big block are aluminum housings and not cast. He called the "warehouse" who works on there rebuilds and says they can fix mine if i send it out.

So now that my short story is long. here are my questions.

1. Will they keep my Starter housing and just replace the cast nose housing and solenoid?

2. Is the attached picture i got from summit a high torque it looks alike to mine minus the yellow powder coat?

3. Could they substitue a high torque for a low one on me?

4. Is there any other year or make that i can use to chase down parts for my 396 out of my 1970 gmc c-20?


Thanks

[Longhorn Man]

your 70 has a 402, there computer is right.
They never made another 396 big block chevy after the end of the 1969 model year

[72chevyk10]

if you have a 168 tooth flywheel all the starters should be the same.(on a auto trany)

[bsgmcc20]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

your 70 has a 402, there computer is right.
They never made another 396 big block chevy after the end of the 1969 model year

So the Protect-O-plate should of said 402 and not L-47 396 like it says? ?

T0804TBG was stamped on pass. side head plate


Code Year Model CID HP Trans Comment

TBG 1970 Truck 402 310 400 L-47 10, 20, 30

Ok now i feel like a rookie..... I sent the starter out to a shop to rebuild the starter from the truck. I didnt get a replacement. Im having mine rebuilt.


So i need to rethink and check what the previous owner had installed? would it matter if it was a part for a 396 block?

[70cstjr]

[QUOTE=bsgmcc20;3255907]So the Protect-O-plate should of said 402 and not L-47 396 like it says? ?

T0804TBG was stamped on pass. side head plate


Code Year Model CID HP Trans Comment

TBG 1970 Truck 402 310 400 L-47 10, 20, 30

Ok now i feel like a rookie..... [QUOTE]


dont feel bad, its ok to learn, my dads 70 cst shows the option code L47 and shows a 396 but the L47 option code is for the 400 also his SPID shows he has west coast Jr Mirros and yet below the eyeline mirrors have been installed on it from day one so go figure lol..cant always trust what they tell ya

[leddzepp]

[quote=70cstjr;3256266][QUOTE=bsgmcc20;3255907]So the Protect-O-plate should of said 402 and not L-47 396 like it says? ?

T0804TBG was stamped on pass. side head plate


Code Year Model CID HP Trans Comment

TBG 1970 Truck 402 310 400 L-47 10, 20, 30

Ok now i feel like a rookie.....

dont feel bad, its ok to learn, my dads 70 cst shows the option code L47 and shows a 396 but the L47 option code is for the 400 also his SPID shows he has west coast Jr Mirros and yet below the eyeline mirrors have been installed on it from day one so go figure lol..cant always trust what they tell ya

Below eyeline mirrors/west coast jr are the same thing. On my SPID it lists "below eyeline mirrors" On the build sheet, they are listed as west coast jr. The 67-68 west coast jr mirrors are different than the 69-72 ones, in that they are long and vertical. Also 71-72 uses slightly different mounting arms than the 69-70.

[Mike C]

I had a cast iron nose starter on my '70 402. I had all sorts of hot start problems and ditched it for a CVR mini-starter. Best $150 I EVER spent. I had a battery with a failed cell, only 10.2 volts max, and it still cranked 'er up until I got a new battery.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by bsgmcc20

So the Protect-O-plate should of said 402 and not L-47 396 like it says? ?

T0804TBG was stamped on pass. side head plate


Code Year Model CID HP Trans Comment

TBG 1970 Truck 402 310 400 L-47 10, 20, 30

Ok now i feel like a rookie..... I sent the starter out to a shop to rebuild the starter from the truck. I didnt get a replacement. Im having mine rebuilt.


So i need to rethink and check what the previous owner had installed? would it matter if it was a part for a 396 block?

The only difference in a 396 and 402 is the name. same bore/stroke, same displacement, all parts should interchange--as long as its a big block and not a 400 small block, which wasn't available in these trucks anyway

[WillW23]

I stay away from the high torque starters. I had one eat up my new flywheel on my 68 Chevelle SS 396. Try a NAPA store, they have new starters that look and fit just like originals, on your 402. I assume this is a slant offset holes starter.

[1968SWBBigBlock]

Advanced Auto carries rebuilt delco remy starters for around 100 bucks with a lifetime warranty
I put one onto my big block and it works just fine

[Longhorn Man]

I'm almost certian that the casting numbers remained the same.
Either way, if it is original, it isn't a 396.

[longhorn70gmc]

I bought a starter for my 402 at Kragen 8 years ago. Here about two weeks ago I took that old starter in with the receipt and walked out with a new one for 0 cash. I was so happy. I know Kragen will have one for your 396 or 402 BB. Good Luck!

[mr48chev]

If nothing else is wrong with your starter you should still be able to buy an new End frame for it. But by the time you buy a solenoid, brushes, bushing for the commutator end and drive you will probably have more in it than buying a top quality rebuilt starter.

[bsgmcc20]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

If nothing else is wrong with your starter you should still be able to buy an new End frame for it. But by the time you buy a solenoid, brushes, bushing for the commutator end and drive you will probably have more in it than buying a top quality rebuilt starter.

The main body of the starter is still good. the end frame has a cracked "ear" and the solenoid was broken and loose. I have it being rebuilt, I hope to hear from them today. The quote i got was $35. for the cast frame. and then what another $40. for the added work?

So I will see. Im just trying to keep this ol' dog as close to what orginal as i got it in. You know the old saying if its not broke dont fix it. I learned that a long time ago. If it is working why tear it all apart. atleast not yet that is...

[bbadfred]

I never have had a problem with hi torque starters on big blocks unless you do not have the starter brace. Even with the two front bolts tight without the brace the starter can move sideways a bit and break flexplate teeth or break the starter drive. the brace fits on that long bolt on the starter and the holes in the block close to the starter.

[bsgmcc20]

Originally Posted by bbadfred

I never have had a problem with hi torque starters on big blocks unless you do not have the starter brace. Even with the two front bolts tight without the brace the starter can move sideways a bit and break flexplate teeth or break the starter drive. the brace fits on that long bolt on the starter and the holes in the block close to the starter.

I am interested in that "starter brace" does anyone have a pic of one?

I just got my starter back. new end frame and solenoid. I am only out $45. better than the 199. quote i got from the "parts changers" outlet.

While i am under there bbadfred i will look for he bolt area you speak of and see if i can fab up a brace. thanks for the heads up on the support brace.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

If nothing else is wrong with your starter you should still be able to buy an new End frame for it. But by the time you buy a solenoid, brushes, bushing for the commutator end and drive you will probably have more in it than buying a top quality rebuilt starter.

The auto electric shop that I take my stuff to when I can't or don't want to do it myself http://www.smithae.com/ charges just about the same to rebuild your starter or alternator as you would pay for a rebuilt at a parts house.
40.00 Labor doesn't sound out of line as it usually take about an hour for me to rebuild one.

After reading about the troubles a lot of guys are having with the "high torque" gear reduction starters on some of the other boards I think I would rather have a good strong starter that was built for the application to begin with.

[mr48chev]

I think this should be the correct starter brace
http://gilbertautoparts.com/Starters...s/03965588.jpg

Scroll down the page to starter braces
http://gilbertautoparts.com/Starters...arts/index.cfm

You should be able to order it at your local dealer.

[bsgmcc20]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I think this should be the correct starter brace
http://gilbertautoparts.com/Starters...s/03965588.jpg

Scroll down the page to starter braces
http://gilbertautoparts.com/Starters...arts/index.cfm

You should be able to order it at your local dealer.

Thanks for the brace picture. If I get the time I will pick it up. just to have most the parts if not all of them back on it.

now to the sadle tanks.... arg