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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 18
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Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
has anybody bypassed the Fuel Tank slector valve? This will be my next action in trying to get my '87 305 back on the road...
I haven't been able to get a look at it, but I'm hoping that I can just remove the valve, let the old lines hang, (My drivers side tank has been out of commission for a while) and connect the working lines to the ones that run to the engine... Questions: -Wiring: Does the harness that goes to the engine compartmant have two pins like the one on the tank? I know there is more sophiticated wiring once you are at the valve because there has to be input from the switch as well as input from both tanks, but what doe the harness look like that communicates with the dash? -Plumbing: Am I going to have to run new lines to get from the passenger side to the driver'd side? Or will the lines hook up well (with some simple mods...) on the passenger side -Brains: Right now the valve is stuck on the wrong (drivers) side. If I remove the selector mechanism completely and hook everything up correctly, will the engine/dash/ecm care? or know? Thanks, Al |
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#2 |
profeshinaly unimployed
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: hazlehurst, GA
Posts: 1,232
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank slector valve
choose witch tank you want find witch hose that is on the selector valve then find witch hose is to you pump on the selector valve get a piece of tubing and use it too connect the too ends the clamp each side i did it before the tubing has to be the right size to fit in each end thoe
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"having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy" |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 928
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
Is your truck carb or FI?
If you have a carb, Just make sure all the lines coming from the engine are hooked to the tank you are going to be using. Feed, return, evap. I think the same will apply to FI, but I have never done it.
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I can still count my vehicles on two... wait three hands. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 18
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
I'm fuel injected...
The other concern is electric... Is this just plug and play, Or am i going to be doing some cutting and splicing? |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 18
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
Just to wrap up this thread...
I spliced the correct wires to the correct wires and everything works. Sorry no pictures... I just took my time and researched the wire colors and double checked visually before I started to cut. The only other notable event was that the old switching valve had nut shaped cutouts for the nuts and bolts. upon removal the nuts stripped the cutouts and I had to rip the thing off the truck. luckily the flanges were plastic so there was no grinding neccesary... |
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#6 |
I have car A.D.D.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greeley, Northern Colorado
Posts: 4,147
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
So, what did you do with your fuel hoses? You just ran hose from what used to go into the block straight to the fuel hose that used to come out of it? I have been messing with mine the last couple days too. Also, what order are your fuel system components? I have the switching valve, then some hose, an in-line filter, more hose, than in-line fuel pump, and then the lines to the motor. Does that seem right? Not trying to hijack the thread, just seeking similar info.
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-Gerald Building vehicles in memory of the first "car guy" I ever knew, my Grandpa. Bob Dunham 1935-2009. Rest in peace. 61 GMC Suburban SOLD The 86 build thread SOLD Are you a Colorado member?Click here. |
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#7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 18
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
Quote:
Tank => Sender => switching valve => filter => ends at throttle body New (removed switching valve) Tank => Sender => filter => ends at throttle body The wiring was the most complecated part. Once I did that I cranked the engine with the fuel lines dissconnected and made sure everything was as I predicted then hooked up the lines (rubber) from the sender to the lines that used to come off of the switching valve (also rubber). ![]() I bought mine at the local parst store...I forget which size...Bigger is better though. also 4 clamps needed - two for return and two for to the engine to clamp the hose to the connector... |
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#8 |
I have car A.D.D.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greeley, Northern Colorado
Posts: 4,147
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
Thank you great info.
__________________
-Gerald Building vehicles in memory of the first "car guy" I ever knew, my Grandpa. Bob Dunham 1935-2009. Rest in peace. 61 GMC Suburban SOLD The 86 build thread SOLD Are you a Colorado member?Click here. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Trinity north carolina
Posts: 4
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
I know im probably gravedigging bad but, after i take out the selector valve is there a way i can bypass the switch in the dash that changes tanks?
I have had nothing but problems with these switches... And also should there be 2 hots on the switch? I tested all my wires and only have one hot.. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, OK
Posts: 1,344
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
Did you use Fuel injection hose clamps? Just curious...
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Trinity north carolina
Posts: 4
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Re: Bypass the Fuel Tank selector valve
I havent done it yet i was trying to figure out if i could bypass that irritating switch..
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