Bodywork tools

[gopokes]

I am going to try to do some of my own body work to my truck but can't spend a ton of money right now. I have read a bunch of posts on here with people going back and forth about rattle can paint job pros and cons. I'm not trying to get any of that going but i was wanting some opinions on some equipment. Has anyone used either of these from Harbor Freight? I know some of their stuff is cheaper but I don't plan on using these alot. Thanks!

[70 Suburban]

well a cheap da will make for a slow repair but will work. as for a gun. well you could use it for primer only. but I wouldnt use them for paint. tip size is a huge difference between the two. I would rather get a decent gun off ebay used. than get a cheap one. take my chances at having to by a needle and tip rather than a shabby job

[b-rad]

i have used the cheap guns and they do fine

[gopokes]

I was probably just going to use the gun for primer. I am just getting started with this stuff and will leave the final suff to someone with more experience. I just didn't want to use rattle cans.

[BruthaMan]

I'm using that very same spray gun kit from HF in my build. It does surprisingly well, though it takes a while to get the gun settings dialed in.

I've shot sealer, primer, single stage chassis paint and urethane paint (wheels) with it. It's done pretty well. Just make sure to clean them good, after each use. And after cleaning the gun, parts, and cup/cap, be sure to leave the top off the cup (likes to stick if left on for a few days).

For final bc/cc, I bought an Iwata LPH-400. Too much time, effort, blood, sweat, tears, curse words and mangled fingers/hands to risk it.

On the DA, the air powered ones are real air hogs. I had a Craftsman, but it sucked up too much air and ended up buying a DeWalt electric orbital.

[70 Suburban]

I use a sharp for primer sealer ect I use a sata 2000 for color and a sata 3000rp digital for clear

[vintagesteel]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

I use a sharp for primer sealer ect I use a sata 2000 for color and a sata 3000rp digital for clear

Problem is you have over $1000 in paint guns new. There is absolutely no reason to spend that kind of money for occasional use. Even what those guns cost off of ebay, most beginners cant justify. Doesnt matter that they are top of the line.

[70 Suburban]

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

Problem is you have over $1000 in paint guns new. There is absolutely no reason to spend that kind of money for occasional use. Even what those guns cost off of ebay, most beginners cant justify. Doesnt matter that they are top of the line.

for me its not occasional use. I was a painter before I got into management and I still paint on the side. but there are bargain guns out there for the novice user.

[gopokes]

So an electric sander is the way to go? Just wanting to get some more opinions. Thanks guys!

[vintagesteel]

Originally Posted by gopokes

So an electric sander is the way to go? Just wanting to get some more opinions. Thanks guys!

to a point. you cannot finish sand with an electic sander. The orbit is way too aggressive and will leave swirls in your primer/paint. They are best for stripping paint then do the rest of your sanding by hand. thats why air powered DAs have finish DAs. the orbit is alot tighter to get smoother finish. And before someone gets on here saying you should handsand before you paint first anyway, most production shops dont. Most production shops dont touch a piece of wetsand paper either unless they are sanding something for polishing. And most shops I've been to use 1500-2000 dry sanding film on a FINISH DA before polishing.

[70 Suburban]

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

to a point. you cannot finish sand with an electic sander. The orbit is way too aggressive and will leave swirls in your primer/paint. They are best for stripping paint then do the rest of your sanding by hand. thats why air powered DAs have finish DAs. the orbit is alot tighter to get smoother finish. And before someone gets on here saying you should handsand before you paint first anyway, most production shops dont. Most production shops dont touch a piece of wetsand paper either unless they are sanding something for polishing. And most shops I've been to use 1500-2000 dry sanding film on a FINISH DA before polishing.

he is correct again. My finish da has 1.3 mm of movement and my paper goes to 3000 grit. but hand sanding is the only way to go for a quality job. for our older truck get long blocks. check your local marine supply or paint store for marine blocks. they sell strip paper on rolls in any grit you need as long as you need it.