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04-30-2009, 09:55 PM | #1 |
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Hydro Boost Push Rod
Installing my hydro boost setup and the rod that goes from the brake pedal to the unit has threads on one end that I can attached to the factory threaded end but the other end is just rounded and goes into the back of teh hydroboost unit a little. It has no way to attach it. Is this normal. I was at first worried it could come out but after careful examination if it is in there tight (like it should be) the brake pedal cannot come back far enough for it ever to fall out so I guess it will be fine like this??
Also is there anything special I need to do to properly bleed this system, everything is new, ps gear box, hydroboost, m/c prop valve, all lines etc.. thanks guys
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1972 K5 - LS3/408 (595Hp) -6L80e-One Tons with 4.56, 20'' Beadlocks with 37'' rubber, full TMI interior, JL Audio ..... 1971 CREWMAX Build.....at body shop for couple more years |
04-30-2009, 10:37 PM | #2 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
Anyone have anything before I hit the sack?
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1972 K5 - LS3/408 (595Hp) -6L80e-One Tons with 4.56, 20'' Beadlocks with 37'' rubber, full TMI interior, JL Audio ..... 1971 CREWMAX Build.....at body shop for couple more years |
04-30-2009, 10:45 PM | #3 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
Are you referring to this pushrod?
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04-30-2009, 10:52 PM | #4 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
I'm assuming you mean you installed a power brake booster, master cylinder, etc.. No special method to bleed the brakes.
The master cylinder, if it's new requires special bleeding to insure there's no residual air in there but if it has been done already just start with the rear passendger side and then drivers side rear. Then do the front passenger and then drivers side. If you don't have a special bleeding kit, you will need two people. One depressing the pedal, another loosening and tightening the bleeding screws. Last edited by 68gmsee; 04-30-2009 at 10:53 PM. |
04-30-2009, 11:00 PM | #5 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
Here is a pic of the rod, the one end threads into the factory piece ( I am actually welding it in since it is the wrong thread size) but it is the other side that just "rides" in the booster. Is that OK???
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1972 K5 - LS3/408 (595Hp) -6L80e-One Tons with 4.56, 20'' Beadlocks with 37'' rubber, full TMI interior, JL Audio ..... 1971 CREWMAX Build.....at body shop for couple more years |
05-01-2009, 07:45 AM | #6 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
Anyone?
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1972 K5 - LS3/408 (595Hp) -6L80e-One Tons with 4.56, 20'' Beadlocks with 37'' rubber, full TMI interior, JL Audio ..... 1971 CREWMAX Build.....at body shop for couple more years |
05-01-2009, 08:57 AM | #7 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
My booster push rod looks different than that one.
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05-01-2009, 09:19 AM | #8 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
Okay, I was looking at the wrong. Some of these power vacuum boosters are different on some of these trucks. Mine was converted.
Here's a picture schematic. It's a "push fit" piece but there's a retainer on the inside that lets you force the poppet in to hold it in place. |
05-01-2009, 11:27 AM | #9 |
That's right, it's Copper!!
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
He's working with a "Hydro Boost" system. I have one on my truck but I didn't notice if the rod came out of the system or not.
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Tom: 1968 Chevy SWB ZZ383 W/700R4 Gen-II Compact Vintage Air System PPG paint, Mandarin Copper and Vanilla Shake. http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/fastom Stupid should hurt and eventually become fatal! |
05-03-2009, 06:33 PM | #10 |
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Re: Hydro Boost Push Rod
I am just going to double nut the nuts and call it good. I really dont think it could ever come out.
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1972 K5 - LS3/408 (595Hp) -6L80e-One Tons with 4.56, 20'' Beadlocks with 37'' rubber, full TMI interior, JL Audio ..... 1971 CREWMAX Build.....at body shop for couple more years |
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