This issue is driving me CRAZY!!!!!!!!!

[Bigbadc10er]

When I start my 68 c10 in the morning or day now matter what the weather is she starts right up like a beast...sounds great!! But after short or long drive, the next time I jump back in and start the truck it always seems to hesitate. I have to pump the gas several times make it start up. I have replaced the battery, the alternator, the starter, the coil spring, spark plugs and wires. The problem still occurs....Any suggestions please?

[berencam]

Hesitate how exactly? Slow crank or sputtering engine?

[67shortie]

What carb are we working with here?

[Bigbadc10er]

Originally Posted by 67shortie

What carb are we working with here?

Its an edelbrock carb for a small 350.

[Bigbadc10er]

Originally Posted by berencam

Hesitate how exactly? Slow crank or sputtering engine?

She cranks up good, it more like the sputtering thats an issue. I have to kick the gas a couple of times to get it over the hump while it sputters.

[berencam]

Originally Posted by Bigbadc10er

She cranks up good, it more like the sputtering thats an issue. I have to kick the gas a couple of times to get it over the hump while it sputters.

what carb, and is this a points distributor or is it hei?

[67shortie]

Do you know if the choke is working properly? I ask because if it's closed all of the time (butterfiles on top of the carb) it will work well cold, but when warm have a tendency to run the engine real rich, lose power and/or flood.

[Bigbadc10er]

Originally Posted by 67shortie

Do you know if the choke is working properly? I ask because if it's closed all of the time (butterfiles on top of the carb) it will work well cold, but when warm have a tendency to run the engine real rich, lose power and/or flood.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm......I do not know, that is a good question and a great point. Now that you bring that up, it does seem that my idle rpm's change sometimes and I have to make an adjustment to get them back to what it is meant to be with a flate head screw driver. Is there a way I can tell?

[Bigbadc10er]

Originally Posted by berencam

what carb, and is this a points distributor or is it hei?

Its an edelbrock carb for a small 350. Its a hei I believe.

[thirdstreettito]

Could be an air leak in the fuel line.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Or the carb could be flooding after being shut off. Mine did that forever until I just threw a new Holley on

[Skirkpat]

Might be vapor lock?

[d4xycrq]

Big,

You have several very good things to check as written in other posts. That said, I had a very similar problem on my Early Bronco that was equipped with a Edelbrock carb as well. I called Edelbrock. They asked if I had a carb spacer. <also mentioned in one of the other posts> They said that the lack of carb spacer could be causing the hot engine to heat soak the carb and boiling the gasoline in the bowl, which could lead to a hard hot start. Not exactly what you are reporting, but close. The Edelbrock folks were excellent on the phone. Give 'em a call. I never added a carb spacer. Those Early Bronco's don't have enough room between the top of the intake manifold and the underside of the hood for a carb spacer, carb, and air cleaner. I just lived with the hard hot start problem.

Give Edelbrock a call.

Ray

Originally Posted by Bigbadc10er

When I start my 68 c10 in the morning or day now matter what the weather is she starts right up like a beast...sounds great!! But after short or long drive, the next time I jump back in and start the truck it always seems to hesitate. I have to pump the gas several times make it start up. I have replaced the battery, the alternator, the starter, the coil spring, spark plugs and wires. The problem still occurs....Any suggestions please?

[dznucks]

thats what i was alluding too, was heat soak into the carb or fuel lines.

i was tyring to get rid of an off idle stumble. i took out the 1 inch spacer and i got the problem you are describing. put it back in and the problem was gone.

this problem is more prevelent in edelbrocks because the fuel bowls are basically sitting right on top of the manifold. with a Demon or a Holley the fuel bowls are hanging off the front and the back of the carb, not directly touching the manifold.

i would suggest getting a phenolic spacer. they wont transfer the heat that an aluminum spacer will.

[69GMCLonghorn]

The problem is EDELBROCK! Put a Holly on the dang thing and it'll run like a (insert your favorite redneck analogy here). I know, I know... this rivals the Ford vs. Chevy debate. I swear BY Holly's, and swear AT Edelbrock's!

[ZombieWeinerDog]

Originally Posted by 69GMCLonghorn

The problem is EDELBROCK! Put a Holly on the dang thing and it'll run like a (insert your favorite redneck analogy here). I know, I know... this rivals the Ford vs. Chevy debate. I swear BY Holly's, and swear AT Edelbrock's!

love eldebrock. well i say a carb is a carb, if it works like it supposed to then good

[big mike71]

Originally Posted by 69GMCLonghorn

The problem is EDELBROCK! Put a Holly on the dang thing and it'll run like a (insert your favorite redneck analogy here). I know, I know... this rivals the Ford vs. Chevy debate. I swear BY Holly's, and swear AT Edelbrock's!

My favorite redneck analogy is " It'll run like a striped a$$ ape."

[Tx Firefighter]

The guys above are right. When an Edelbrock carb is shut off and sits on top of that hot engine, it evaporates the fuel out of the bowl. When you restart the engine, the fuel pump has to refill the bowl.

Like mentioned above, a thin phenolic spacer will cure the issue.

As far as the Holley vs Edelbrock carb, I have run them all in the last 20 years. I guarantee you, the Edelbrock has given me so much fewer headaches than Holleys have. You set them and forget them. Holleys tend to fail accelerator pump diaphrams and pee fuel onto the intake manifold. Or the bowls tend to weep at the gaskets.

As far as maximum power or tunability, that's debatable forever, but for a daily driver the Edelbrock is the champ. Bolt it on and forget about it.

[Bigbadc10er]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The guys above are right. When an Edelbrock carb is shut off and sits on top of that hot engine, it evaporates the fuel out of the bowl. When you restart the engine, the fuel pump has to refill the bowl.

Like mentioned above, a thin phenolic spacer will cure the issue.

As far as the Holley vs Edelbrock carb, I have run them all in the last 20 years. I guarantee you, the Edelbrock has given me so much fewer headaches than Holleys have. You set them and forget them. Holleys tend to fail accelerator pump diaphrams and pee fuel onto the intake manifold. Or the bowls tend to weep at the gaskets.

As far as maximum power or tunability, that's debatable forever, but for a daily driver the Edelbrock is the champ. Bolt it on and forget about it.

This informatoin is gold, I was going to change the EGR-valve or the Air control valve after doing some research on the net. I will try the spacer first and do some research on how to install. Thanks for everyones help, its good to have smart friends ...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Skirkpat]

Boiling fuel is called vapor lock, basicly like having air in brake line , Old Mercedes are the worst, there is a reason the factory put the thick gaskets under them. If it is missing , get one.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The guys above are right. When an Edelbrock carb is shut off and sits on top of that hot engine, it evaporates the fuel out of the bowl. When you restart the engine, the fuel pump has to refill the bowl.

Like mentioned above, a thin phenolic spacer will cure the issue.

As far as the Holley vs Edelbrock carb, I have run them all in the last 20 years. I guarantee you, the Edelbrock has given me so much fewer headaches than Holleys have. You set them and forget them. Holleys tend to fail accelerator pump diaphrams and pee fuel onto the intake manifold. Or the bowls tend to weep at the gaskets.

As far as maximum power or tunability, that's debatable forever, but for a daily driver the Edelbrock is the champ. Bolt it on and forget about it.

I agree about the ease of running Rochester design carbs, Holleys take a little to get right, but it can be done. I was taught to rebuild Holleys by one of the guys on Jerry Bickell's NHRA pit team. If done right they are great They can be finicky, but there is a reason you won't find an Edelbrock/Q-jet at the dragstrip, or a Holley at the roundy-rounds. for all out power Holley's win. for Ease of operation, Q-jets the way to go.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Bigbadc10er

I have to pump the gas several times make it start up. I have replaced the battery, the alternator, the starter, the coil spring, spark plugs and wires. The problem still occurs....Any suggestions please?

None of the things listed here have anything to do with the fuel issue....
"I have to pump it" to start it is a fuel problem.

Originally Posted by Bigbadc10er

She cranks up good, it more like the sputtering thats an issue. I have to kick the gas a couple of times to get it over the hump while it sputters.

If it "cranks up good", why would you be replacing all of those electrical parts?

Thing like this have to be approached in a logical order. It will save you time, money and aggravation. "Process of elimination" is the place to start.
An engine only needs air/fuel, spark, and compression to hold it all in, to make it run......all at the correct time and proportion.
"Starting" takes a little more, but as long as the engine turns over, that is out of the picture as far as what is wrong.
Next check for fuel...simply looking down the carburetor and opening the throttle should show you an accelerator pump squirt.
Next pull a plug wire from one of the spark plugs, stick a spare spark plug into it and ground the plug. Crank the engine and look for that plug to "spark".
At this point you have the "basic necessities" (air/fuel, spark, compression) so, for it to have driven down the road and then not re-started after you have stopped somewhere.....You have lost one of the basics.
In this particular case "I have to pump it a few times" gives you the answer....fuel.

I hope this helps.....someone

[youhaveamonkey]

It has been brought up here before, but it REALLY sounds like a vapor lock problem. Look closely at the routing of the fuel line. If it gets too close to some thing hot it will cause you problems. There are a thousand tricks to get your fuel line to cool down, including putting heat sinks on it. I would also look closely at the carb spacer issue. This could be happening too. As far as edelbrocks vs hollys, I am not touching that one with a 10 ft pole. I have seen them both run well. But for me, for practicality (I don't want to have to mess with it), I am a q-jet guy all the way. They are just easy.

Good Luck!

[Bigbadc10er]

Alright guys, its looks like I am going with the spacer to fix my issue. Thanks for all the great input and I will provide an update!!!