Help!!! I need your opinions.

[Richard8971]

OK, here is the deal. I am getting ready to shell out a bunch of money for a motor.

As some of you know, I have an '83 305, most likely out of a Camaro in my truck now. I have an EFI distributor, headers and an Edlebrock 1406 carb. Outside of the fact that it leaks oil like the Exxon Valdez and blows smoke really bad when you start it up, it starts quickly and is a very strong motor, plenty of power and has never given me a days worth of trouble.

Most people are trying to get me to get a 350. Only trouble is, most people that have a nice 350, keep a nice 350. I can get a 350 reman with a 3 year warranty, but I have to pay about $500 for the core charge.

Now the question is, sense I have to transfer my stuff anyway, do I get a reman 305 ($1200.00, no core charge, 3 year warranty), or get a 350 ($1200.00, $500 core charge, 3 year warranty). I know my 305 stuff will work with a 305, but as allot of you guys have said in the past, MOST of the things should transfer over to a 350, but I am still taking a chance.

I can also get a used (been sitting for 4 or so years), recently rebuilt 350 with lots of goodies for $1000.00. (From a friend) But he never got it running right and says it's the timing. To me that's a big 'what if..'. No warranty and I could be buying someone else's troubles.

I know the 350 should be a more efficient motor. I also know the 350 has more HP than a 305 but how do they compare MPG wise? Oh, and one more thing. I need to have my 700R4 rebuilt. So that cuts into my budget some. The money I would have to pay for a core can get my tranny done...

Oh, one more thing. I want to do this locally. I am not interested in getting anything online. My local economy needs my help and I plan on keeping my money here, even if it does cost me a little more. Also the local help if I have any issues with warranty stuff is a plus.

Honestly, I don't care if it's a 305 or not. People won't know it's not a 305 when they look under the hood, so what do I do? Keep to the facts... comments like "305's suck, 350's rock dude!" won't help me decide. I need to know why... please.

Don

[fine69]

I think you should fix your oil leaks.

Put new valve stem seals in and save a bunch of money.
Thats where the smoke on startup is coming from.

$75 bucks or so for a engine gasket kit.

$22 bucks for cone type oil seals. And on a SB chevy you can use the factory and the aftermarket ones BOTH at the same time.

When you have the engine out also put in a new timing chain and gears.
$50

You just saved lots of money.

If you are not capable of doing all this, find someone local who is.

Get rid of the "friend" who wants $1000 for a used 305 that he couldn't get running right.

If you were in Ohio i would sell you a good 305 crate engine for $300

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by fine69

I think you should fix your oil leaks.

Put new valve stem seals in and save a bunch of money.
Thats where the smoke on startup is coming from.

$75 bucks or so for a engine gasket kit.

$22 bucks for cone type oil seals. And on a SB chevy you can use the factory and the aftermarket ones BOTH at the same time.

When you have the engine out also put in a new timing chain and gears.
$50

You just saved lots of money.

If you are not capable of doing all this, find someone local who is.

Get rid of the "friend" who wants $1000 for a used 305 that he couldn't get running right.

If you were in Ohio i would sell you a good 305 crate engine for $300

I wouldn't have a problem with this but...

Until I open my motor, I have no idea what shape the cylinder walls are in, valves, crankshaft, bearings, rings... etc. I have to assume the worst in that it will need a complete rebuild. Once I tear into my truck, I have limited time to get this done. So for a master kit (with pistons) is about $400-500 bucks here in town. Add the machining work, that could take you close to $800-$1000.00. And then it still doesn't have a warranty. No point in rebuilding the heads without putting new rings in... you will just blow them out!

The motor came from a junk yard so I really have no idea of it's history or anything. If I take the time to open my motor, I will rebuild it correctly. No reason to cheese it at this point. The hard part is taking it out!!!

I am capable of doing the work, short of machining.

Don

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by fine69

I think you should fix your oil leaks.

If I DO take this route, I would at least get a valve job on both heads (that way I can replace the head gaskets), and replace the front and rear main seals. I would also replace the oil pump, water pump and timing chain. I figure this route could end up costing me about 350-500 bucks.

As long as the lower end was strong, it should be OK for a little while longer. I dunno...

D

[69GMCLonghorn]

I agree with fine69. Fix what you've got. Maybe even take it in for a rebuild if you think it needs it. You know you have a good motor that just might be a little on the aged side. Stick with it and don't let good ol' Murphy throw his book of laws at you! Good luck!

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by 69GMCLonghorn

I agree with fine69. Fix what you've got. Maybe even take it in for a rebuild if you think it needs it. You know you have a good motor that just might be a little on the aged side. Stick with it and don't let good ol' Murphy throw his book of laws at you! Good luck!

So what you are saying is that $1000.00 spent on rebuilding what I have is better than a remanufactured 305 w/ 3 year warranty for $1200.00?

Yeah I could do a gasket kit, but once you get the heads off for a valve job, you might as well replace the oil pump... and then just a couple of bolts more removed and you can re-ring it...

I honestly have no reservations on rebuilding what I have, I am just wondering if doing the work myself to save a couple of hundred bucks is worth it.

Hmmm....

Don

[fine69]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

So what you are saying is that $1000.00 spent on rebuilding what I have is better than a remanufactured 305 w/ 3 year warranty for $1200.00?

Yeah I could do a gasket kit, but once you get the heads off for a valve job, you might as well replace the oil pump... and then just a couple of bolts more removed and you can re-ring it...

I honestly have no reservations on rebuilding what I have, I am just wondering if doing the work myself to save a couple of hundred bucks is worth it.

Hmmm....

Don

Don, you dont have to take the heads off to put valve seals in.
Just take the valves springs off. Which can be done with the motor in. But much easier with it out.
If it runs strong then you don't need to re-ring it.
If it ain't knockin' why put new main and rod bearings in???

I don't think you understand what i mean.

Neither of us is talking about rebuilding.

Doesn't sound like you need more than a couple hunderd bucks and some time to be in ship shape.

If it runs good, strong, why replace it? Fix the problems you have.

??????

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by fine69

I don't think you understand what i mean... If it runs good, strong, why replace it? Fix the problems you have.

I understand what you mean.

My front main is the leaky spot. My rear main leaks too, but not as badly as the front. There is no way in h*** I am going to change those with the motor in the truck. I have to pull my transmission for a rebuild at the same time so taking the motor out at this point is just a couple of more bolts and an hours worth of work. Then I will have easy access to everything. To change the front main I will have to take the oil pan off and the timing chain cover.

Well, once I have those off, why wouldn't I want to replace the timing chain and oil pump? I mean I am already there. There is no reason to take the time to take the valves out and not get the heads reworked. Once I have the heads off for a valve job, why not re-ring it, put new bearings in and get the motor honed?

I am not looking for a quick fix. Honestly, the cheapest thing for me to do at this point is do nothing and let it leak until something bigger breaks. To me this is going to be alot of work either way. My way, I fix it where it should hold for several more years.

Don

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by fine69

Don, If it runs good, strong, why replace it? Fix the problems you have.

Darn you. Now you got me thinking again.

These were my thoughts in the first place. But friends close to me keep pressuring me to get a new 350.

I just want my truck to run without leaking! (WAAAHHHH)

D

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

But friends close to me keep pressuring me to get a new 350.



D

You're letting your friends spend your money. Fixing your leaks is 45 dollars worth of gasket set. Who cares if it is a 305 or 350. They look exactly the same from the outside.

[bac1755]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

Darn you. Now you got me thinking again.

These were my thoughts in the first place. But friends close to me keep pressuring me to get a new 350.

I just want my truck to run without leaking! (WAAAHHHH)

D

If its not to bad just fix the leaks. Then rat nest some money so if it does ever go you can put a bad @$$ 350 in it.

[bac1755]

Why wont they let you use the old 305 as the core for the 350? I dont know if its the place you went or what but the place I went to had no problem with it.

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by bac1755

Why wont they let you use the old 305 as the core for the 350? I dont know if its the place you went or what but the place I went to had no problem with it.

Hmmm... never thought of that... I could always ask. But if I remember correctly, they didn't want my 305 as an exchange. I mean they didn't even want it as an exchange for another 305!

D

[bac1755]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

Hmmm... never thought of that... I could always ask. But if I remember correctly, they didn't want my 305 as an exchange. I mean they didn't even want it as an exchange for another 305!

D

If its rebuildable I dont see why they wont take it. Maybe they want something else with it, ask them if they will take a 13" black and white T.V?

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by bac1755

If its rebuildable I dont see why they wont take it. Maybe they want something else with it, ask them if they will take a 13" black and white T.V?

[Tx Firefighter]

Since it's a good runner right now, I'd buy a FelPro KS2600 gasket set to reaseal the complete engine for 45 dollars, a set of valve seals, a timimg chain set, and fix what you have. You have about 100 dollars in it including some engine paint.

If it runs and doesn't knock and carries good oil pressure, why fool with what isn't broke ? You need some oil leaks repaired and some valve stem seals. Don't throw the baby out with the bath water.

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

You have about 100 dollars in it including some engine paint.

Engine paint?

I am not sure of the oil pressure. I would replace the pump either way I go. Just good insurance.

D

[Bears63]

First, fix your tranny and see what you have left in the budget after that. The engine is still running so do the tranny.

Now, I have been in a situation like this before. I had a leaky 350 with a bunch of miles. I pulled the motor and freshened up the gaskets and seals and slapped it back in. A month later a rod started knocking and I ended up buying a reman 350 with 3 year warranty. What I'm saying is this, if you have the money to get a reman engine then go for it. If you are short on your budget after fixing your tranny, then just fix the leaks and see how long it lasts. My situation was a bit of a fluke, but it's always a possibility as well. Trust me, that warranty is piece of mind too.

As for 305 vs 350, either one is fine. They are both good engines and I wouldn't hesitate to snag a 305. But, if the place will take your old 305 for core, then get the 350. In the end it is your hard earned money to part with. It's not an easy choice, but go in the direction that you think is best for you.

[berencam]

I find the quality of a personally rebuilt engine to be better than a remaned one. However if you want to get a remaned one, why not search craigslist for a old junker 350 block? should be able to get it for 50-100 bucks and theres your core. Drop the crate in, then take your time and rebuild the 305 you have and keep it as a backup. Or just fix the problems you have now, The front man seal can be changed with the engine installed still, and i have seen people change the rear main with the engine installed too. It is possible. If it where mine this is what id do....1. pull engine and trans, place engine on stand and send transmission off to be rebuilt(400-500 bucks at the most?) 2. take the block down to a short block( no oil pan, no heads, no timing cover.) 3. send the heads off. (300-400 bucks very most). 4. replace all gaskets, oil pan, mains, timing cover and such(should run 150-200 for all the gaskets and stuff.) Should end up with a good transmission, and a good engine, if you want change the cam while your in there and give yourself a bit more power. But it shouldnt cost more than 1k to repair the tranny and overhaul the engine.

[berencam]

Originally Posted by Bears63

First, fix your tranny and see what you have left in the budget after that. The engine is still running so do the tranny.

Now, I have been in a situation like this before. I had a leaky 350 with a bunch of miles. I pulled the motor and freshened up the gaskets and seals and slapped it back in. A month later a rod started knocking and I ended up buying a reman 350 with 3 year warranty. What I'm saying is this, if you have the money to get a reman engine then go for it. If you are short on your budget after fixing your tranny, then just fix the leaks and see how long it lasts. My situation was a bit of a fluke, but it's always a possibility as well. Trust me, that warranty is piece of mind too.

As for 305 vs 350, either one is fine. They are both good engines and I wouldn't hesitate to snag a 305. But, if the place will take your old 305 for core, then get the 350. In the end it is your hard earned money to part with. It's not an easy choice, but go in the direction that you think is best for you.

btw read the fine print on that warrenty, it states the warrenty is only valid when you install it to replace the current engine in your vehicle with the same engine. My 350 crate specifically stated it must be installed into a 89 and above 1/2 to be valid, and i must provide proof of engine maintenance.

[Bears63]

Originally Posted by berencam

btw read the fine print on that warrenty, it states the warrenty is only valid when you install it to replace the current engine in your vehicle with the same engine. My 350 crate specifically stated it must be installed into a 89 and above 1/2 to be valid, and i must provide proof of engine maintenance.

That is an excellent point. Another item to check is length of warranty if you do the install yourself. In some cases the warranty is only 1 year if you do the install.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Richard8971

OK, here is the deal. I am getting ready to shell out a bunch of money for a motor.

As some of you know, I have an '83 305, most likely out of a Camaro in my truck now. I have an EFI distributor, headers and an Edlebrock 1406 carb. Outside of the fact that it leaks oil like the Exxon Valdez and blows smoke really bad when you start it up, it starts quickly and is a very strong motor, plenty of power and has never given me a days worth of trouble.

Most people are trying to get me to get a 350. Only trouble is, most people that have a nice 350, keep a nice 350. I can get a 350 reman with a 3 year warranty, but I have to pay about $500 for the core charge.

Now the question is, sense I have to transfer my stuff anyway, do I get a reman 305 ($1200.00, no core charge, 3 year warranty), or get a 350 ($1200.00, $500 core charge, 3 year warranty). I know my 305 stuff will work with a 305, but as allot of you guys have said in the past, MOST of the things should transfer over to a 350, but I am still taking a chance.

I can also get a used (been sitting for 4 or so years), recently rebuilt 350 with lots of goodies for $1000.00. (From a friend) But he never got it running right and says it's the timing. To me that's a big 'what if..'. No warranty and I could be buying someone else's troubles.

I know the 350 should be a more efficient motor. I also know the 350 has more HP than a 305 but how do they compare MPG wise? Oh, and one more thing. I need to have my 700R4 rebuilt. So that cuts into my budget some. The money I would have to pay for a core can get my tranny done...

Oh, one more thing. I want to do this locally. I am not interested in getting anything online. My local economy needs my help and I plan on keeping my money here, even if it does cost me a little more. Also the local help if I have any issues with warranty stuff is a plus.

Honestly, I don't care if it's a 305 or not. People won't know it's not a 305 when they look under the hood, so what do I do? Keep to the facts... comments like "305's suck, 350's rock dude!" won't help me decide. I need to know why... please.

Don

Where are you getting these new motors from. Reason I ask is because most places you can pass of your 305 as a 350 core

[sleepertruck72]

I say fix watcha got, and have your tranny rebuilt, or ask your "friends" to pay for your crate engine. It will give you more pride and joy to know that you fixed it, versus the pride and joy of your friends spending your money. Heck if you let me, I'll spend your money and get you a big block 427 crate Good luck with your decision.

[cparman]

FINE 69 is spot on!! I have been down this road a time or two. IF I were you I would waste a couple hundred, and find THE RIGHT SHOP to help diagnose your troubles. If your truck runs well, then fix it! I might suggest you listen carefully on start up to see if you hear a rattle when the engine is cold. If so there might be lower end issues ( main or rod bearings ) if not put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the engine, and start it up and look. If the pressure is right, ( both hot and cold ) reseal it, and a set of valve stem seals, and you are out some of your time, but not alot of money.

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by Highsteel

I'm confused why you asked after reading all the posts and rebukes to all the posts.

Don't be confused. This post was to get ideas and thoughts and you guys have given me plenty to think about. It boils down to 1) do/fix as little as possible and hope (pray) for the best. or 2) Rebuild (and spend more $$$) what I have and be better than happy.

My problem is not a "what should I do", it's more of an "what can my money be best spent on?". I think the best thing for me to do is; pull the motor, fix the seals and valve seals and put it back together and pray. I can concentrate on my transmission and do it right and save up for a new motor in a few more months.

Originally Posted by cparman

I have been down this road a time or two. IF I were you I would waste a couple hundred, and find THE RIGHT SHOP to help diagnose your troubles.

I am the right shop. I can do my own mechanical work. I am not afraid of the job, no matter how big. I have rebuilt engines before so I am well aware of the size of the job. Believe it or not, rebuilding a motor is not that hard. Just takes a little time and double checking of your specs.

Figuring out where this thing is leaking should be ppprreetttyyyyy easy! (follow the oil spill) Besides there are not THAT many seals through the whole thing. A master gasket kit should do the trick. This isn't a post on what can or what can't I do... I am just looking for ideas.

D

PS Thanks guys! I am reading every post and learning. I will decide soon!