ECE Extreme Drop Center Cross member alignment issues?

[shifty]

Ok, so I I guess nothing really is bolt-in. My CPP notches didn't line up worth a damn on the stock holes, and now I'm noticing that my ECE Extreme Drop Center Cross member also doesn't line up worth a damn on the stock holes. WTF? Can't anyone make anything actually fit worth a damn?

So, just curious. Here's a pic for S&G, has anyone else noticed that the ECE Extreme Drop Center Cross member doesn't fit with stock holes? Which did you bore out, the crossmember or framerail holes?

I really didn't want to be screwing with this, and was led to believe this was a "direct bolt-in" by the ECE fellas.

[Shane]

I have both pieces that you mention and they bolted up with no new holes being drilled or existing holes needing to be enlarged in a 1970 frame.

[shifty]

Weird. I have a '68. My frame is technically different than yours. I am 100% positive my frame is square as well.

I'm going to go to their website and see if they say anything about this.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by shifty

Weird. I have a '68. My frame is technically different than yours. I am 100% positive my frame is square as well.

I'm going to go to their website and see if they say anything about this.

How a bout some pics to see how close it really is. It is possible for the frame to spread or pinch in a little when you remove the factory x-member (not excessivel). I have always had good luck with ECE parts.

[shifty]

That was actually my next question. ECE doesn't mention anything about differences between the years, nor that there are some fitment concerns. I assume all framerails from 63-72 are the same width?

Is it possible that the frame flexed in an inch after that crossmember came out? The hole centers are out by about 3/8" - 1/2" on each side. If I line up holes on one side, I can can't even see a sliver of hole on the other side. I would need to oval out the frame holes to get there.

What is the inside rail to inside of rail measurement with the stock crossmember in? Can anyone help get that?

[lolife99]

What about using a couple of clamps to spread the rails while you drop in the bolts. Like a pipe clamp?

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by lolife99

What about using a couple of clamps to spread the rails while you drop in the bolts. Like a pipe clamp?

WOW, we both wrote "pipe clamps" at exactly 9:57...weird!

[jlaird]

I remember when I took out my stock crossmember, the frame spread suddenly when I took the last rivets out. You might want to try to get some long pipe clamps and try to get the holes lined back up. I bolted my stock one back in and had to do this because the frame spread and the holes didn't line up.

[PBFAB.COM]

That's another idea... slide the factory one back in and compare. My guess is that they will both fit the same.

[shifty]

I cut the factory crossmember out with a plasma to save time, then drilled out the rivets. Makes it easier, a lot of the rivets have been frozen on my frame, and my airhammer won't knock em out ($25 name-brand unit from Wal Mart). By cutting it, I just needed to take the heads off both, hammer out one, then slam the leftover piece with a hammer, and the rivet and remnant come out easily. I seriously didn't think I would need the crossmember again.

I guess I can cobble together the old crossmember on top of the ECE unit and see if the holes line up. If yes, then I just need to find a way to spread the framerails.

I dunno what y'all are saying about using a pipe wrench. The frame rails got skinny on me. I would need a bottle jack to spread the rails. (don't have one, though!!)

I'll figure it out. Thanks for the feedback, if anyone else has feedback or suggestions, or want to share your experiences, please do!

[SCOTI]

My rails needed to be spread slightly w/a Port-a-Power to drop the bolts right in but mine was a lwb to swb conversion so heat might be more of a factor for me.

Since that first attempt, I just bolt it in by dropping the bolts in on one side & using a pry bar to push the other side out enough that the bolts would drop in.

[Rokcrln]

Shifty do you have a high lift jack? I used that on project Trazer when I installed the ECE Cross-member. As I popped out the last rivet the frame pinched and locked my air hammer in place really good. I used ECE's holes to get the frame back in place with help of a high lift jack from back in my wheeling days!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[shifty]

I will give it a shot.

I'm thinking about sending it out for powdercoating w/o this crossmember and the tranny crossmember out. Suggestions welcome. Pros, cons of in or out?

[XXL]

Like others have mentioned, there was some "pop" when the old xmember came out. I had already set the new one in just behind the old one, so all I had to do was apply some elbow grease with a dead-blow hammer to get it in place. Holes lined up dead-on.

[basemodel67]

Maybe it's because you're putting it in upside-down? Just kidding... I hope.

[dznucks]

Shifty,

let us know what you end up doing, pics would be nice too. I just ordered my CPP center drop member today. i hope i am not going to have the same problems.

do you think having the cab still on the frame might help that frame not snap in after removal?

[shifty]

the frame is flipped upside down still in that picture, i flipped it a while back when i notched it

measurements are the same top and bottom, i believe, but not sure. good point, though.

i went out and measured last night before bed. with a little nudge, i got the holes to line up. all looks good with the world. now i need to weld up some dead holes in the framerails and drill for my tranny crossmember, then drill my airbag holes out .... and i'm just about good to go for sandblast/powdercoat.

can't wait to have a rolling chassis again.

[shifty]

Oh, absolutely. The rear cab supports should hold it at about the same spot. You gotta understand - I'm literally a pair of framerails right now with, what, four crossmembers? The one in front of the engine, the main front crossmember under the engine, then two rear crossmembers. Not much to my frame right now, I've removed the tranny crossmember and the rear trailing arm crossmember.

i'm guessing the reason not a lot of people have this problem is that they have an automatic tranny crossmember installed when they remove this trailing arm crossmember, so the frame can't flex in/out much.

That's why I was curious to hear what people thought about transporting it without the extreme drop crossmember installed.

[dznucks]

I can tell that you have it stripped down to the bare frame.

i wonder what was preloading the frame if you had all the other crossmembers removed.

i am just going to have the bed off when i put mine in. hopefully i wont have this problem. thanks for posting this. this could have been an uneepected problem, now i at least can watch out for it.

[shifty]

I seriously think the framerails probably already had some bow to them, and when i removed the tranny and center/rear crossmember, it probably just sprung back out again to the shape it was before.

Sounds like other peoples have actually contracted inward some. Who knows what 100k+ miles and 40 years of wear does to framerails

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by shifty

My ECE Extreme Drop Center Cross member also doesn't line up worth a damn on the stock holes. WTF? Can't anyone make anything actually fit worth a damn?

and was led to believe this was a "direct bolt-in" by the ECE fellas.

So operator error! Glad it all worked out for you, I have a lot of faith in what Stan from ECE sell's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.