Anti-freeze question

[wwotr]

Old scool here.


I learned in HS Auto Shop that after your drained/changerd your Anti-Freeze that you ran the engine long enough to open the Thermostat and you turned the Heater on and run it for about 5 minutes, and then check the level again and top off (or almost up to the bottom of the Filler Neck).
I hadent checked my Anti Freeze sine my Mechanic put in a New Thermostat, Hoses, and changed it.
When I looked, it was about 4" below the Filler Neck.
So I slowley topped it of to about a 1/2" below it.

I'm assuming thats the "rule of thumb" and if I put too much in, it'll just go out the overflow tube...correct?

Roger
"RATIKLE"

[Longhorn Man]

you are correct

[68gmsee]

Put an overflow reservoir in your truck if you don't have one. I put one in mine and it's the best thing I did. Radiator stays full every time I check it.

[Jim_PA]

Why would turning on the heater help? Is it in case there is a hidden bypass valve somewhere?

[wwotr]

QUOTE=Jim_PA;3495727]Why would turning on the heater help? Is it in case there is a hidden bypass valve somewhere?[/QUOTE]

They always told me in HS Auto Shop, that by turning on the Heater, the anti-freeze would flow through all the tubing/Heater Core.
Sounds ridiculous now, but I took it as "Gospel" from Mr. Norris back in 74!

Roger
"RATIKLE"

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by wwotr

They always told me in HS Auto Shop, that by turning on the Heater, the anti-freeze would flow through all the tubing/Heater Core.
Sounds ridiculous now, but I took it as "Gospel" from Mr. Norris back in 74!

Roger
"RATIKLE"

Mr. Norris was right on. You need to run it - preferrably with the heater on (hoses open so coolant flows) - to 'burp' it. When I was trained in at the garage I used to work at I was told you need to burp the system.

By running it until the thermostat opens with the heater on you eventually remove all the air from the system. Air compresses, water does not. An air bubble in the system could stay there and eventually lead to an overheat condition. The air bubble gets around the thermostat but without having the thermostat in coolant, it doesn't open. The engine gets hotter and hotter and hotter and bye-bye head gasket(s).

Plus if you've ever ran a car that wasn't burped in -30 degree air temps you'll quickly find out that no heat sucks.

I burp all my vehicles when doing maintenance that includes draining the coolant.

[Longhorn Man]

in these trucks without a/c... no need.
In many newer vehicles, esp with a/c... itmatters.
So yes, it is a good generic rule of thumb.
I can point out some others that haven't mattered for 50+ years that are still treated like gosple.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

in these trucks without a/c... no need.
In many newer vehicles, esp with a/c... itmatters.
So yes, it is a good generic rule of thumb.
I can point out some others that haven't mattered for 50+ years that are still treated like gosple.

Never putting a battery on concrete ?
Putting clothes pins on the fuel line to cure vapor lock ?
Rev it real good before shutting it off to clear the carb ?

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Never putting a battery on concrete ?
Putting clothes pins on the fuel line to cure vapor lock ?
Rev it real good before shutting it off to clear the carb ?

very good... you left out the bleed the brakes farthest to furthest... one of my favorite ones.

[Legolas894]

I do think the nevery put a battery on concrete has some basis in reality. I always put mine on a sheet of plywood on the floor to insulate it from the cold. The concrete floor is cold so if you have an unheated garage (like I do), it's a lot colder on the bare concrete and could be harder on a battery being stored. Just go and sit on the bare floor for awhile and you'll get the picture. A little piece of wood or styrofoam makes a difference.

I think some people confused that saying with the battery losing voltage to electrical ground or something like that which doesn't make any sense.

[Longhorn Man]

your floor is no colder than your steel battely tray.

[ChevLoRay]

Back in the day, when battery cases were rubber compounds there was an idea lurking in the back of the garages that batteries would run down if setting on concrete. Best I can tell, any battery will slowly discharge if allowed to set w/o any usage or a trickle charger. It's called a "storage" battery and there's a reason for that, I suppose.

But I really like these "old wive's tale" / urban legend car-ism's.

[MacAttack]

A garage floor can ground a battery out - eventually, but only via the humidity in the air. Creates a path for the electrons to leak to any ground and discharge the battery accordingly. Would do exactly the same if the battery was left unattended on a steel shelf - without an occasional trickle charge.

[Longhorn Man]

the only thing that "grounds a battery out" is arcing positive to negitive. "Ground" in electrical talk has nothing to do with the ground that you stand on. The floor, or the ground that you place a battery on will do absolutly nothing to a battery. The discharge a battery gets from sitting is not caused by air or anything else.

[Hottrucks]

come on long horn it must be true i read it on the internet!!!!

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!

[Longhorn Man]

the myth has been around a lot longer than the internet.
Or TV for that matter

[unclewatts]

I first heard that bull about not storing a battery on a concrete floor when I was about 6 years old. I didn't believe it then and I don't believe it now. (When I was six was a very long time ago too.) BTW somebody told me once that chewing gum a lot would give you stomach cancer and drinking milk while eating cherries would make you sick.