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10-26-2009, 06:25 PM | #1 |
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need some advice...
I've got a 250 I6 with a slipped harmonic balancer. So...I have to buy a new one. My question is, how do yall guys go about installing one? On my Jeep I could just use a long bolt in the end of the crank and just suck it up to the engine. The Chevy crank is just an inverted cone with no bolt to hold on the balancer. Just a press fit. Any suggestions are welcome.
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-1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast! |
10-26-2009, 06:27 PM | #2 |
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Re: need some advice...
Try using a harmonic balancer installer tool
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10-26-2009, 06:42 PM | #3 |
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Re: need some advice...
Can't. It uses threads in the end of the crank to push the balancer on. Threads that I don't have... Last time I just used a block of wood and a hammer. It's probably not the "correct" way, but it got the job done. And the engine never gave me any problems...until now. It's a 40+ year old balancer anyway. It was going to go out sooner or later.
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-1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast! |
10-26-2009, 08:00 PM | #4 |
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Re: need some advice...
Put the balancer in the oven for about 15 min.Don't set the temp too high but warm it up good.Use a pair of welding gloves and do it on a cold day.You'll probably still have to tap it on with a hammer and block of wood but not as hard.
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10-26-2009, 08:07 PM | #5 |
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Re: need some advice...
The way I've done it: Remove the radiator first it will be a lot easier and prevent damaging it. Then go get a big heavy duty hammer- not a carpenter's or ball peen one. With a flat piece of 2X4 bang it in. Once it's started, you can tap it in but be careful not to hit the outer ring.
Now, the way you should do it: Have a machine shop drill and tap the end of the crank. A lot of guys have used the bang it in method with no problems. The only time I had a problem is when the 2X4 slipped and I messed up the balancer... |
10-26-2009, 11:24 PM | #6 |
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Location: Taylor, TX
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Re: need some advice...
This is the safest way to do it. It's actually in older repair manuals. Tons of older motors, like the 265 in my Bel Air, have press on balancers. DONT hit it metal to metal, I use a dead blow plastic mallet. It wont hurt anything.
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10-26-2009, 08:03 PM | #7 |
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Re: need some advice...
sledge hammer and block gets mine on everytime, never thought about heating it,,,,
Good tip Panel D..... Smitty
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10-26-2009, 09:40 PM | #8 |
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Re: need some advice...
Another easy way is to buzz it into place with an air hammer and a wide flat bit.
I've got one like number 5. It works great.
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10-26-2009, 10:21 PM | #9 |
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Location: Pleak, Texas
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Re: need some advice...
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I think I'm going to go with Panel Deland's idea. I'll also throw a new seal in for good measure. While I'm at it, I'll replace the valve cover gasket, water pump, manifold gasket, touch-up the paint on the front of the engine.... You know how it goes. These trucks are never ending projects. Just when you think you've done everything that you could possibly do, something new pops up.
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-1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast! |
10-26-2009, 11:19 PM | #10 |
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Re: need some advice...
I thought that hammering on it could screw up the end play of the crank against the main thrust bearing and/or damage the main bearings.
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10-27-2009, 09:19 AM | #11 |
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Re: need some advice...
If you hammer it on, how do you line up timing mark with any reasonable degree of accuracy?
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10-27-2009, 09:27 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Re: need some advice...
It lines up with a key in the crank. I've done this before, just wanted to see if there was an alternate method of installation. I really don't like hammering it on, but it seems to be the only way. I guess the engineers at GM designed it this way because they knew that the I6 was bulletproof.
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-1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast! |
10-27-2009, 09:38 AM | #13 |
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Location: Dansville, NY
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Re: need some advice...
So if your outer ring has slipped, can you pull the Balancer and re-build it and put it back together to put the outer ring where the timing mark ought to be? Or do you have to replace it?
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DIY body and paint work is cheap, making it look good... priceless -------------------------------------------- My Toys; ’26 Ford Model T ‘72 Triumph Spitfire 1500 '09 "The Briggs Flyer" Gettin' High. |
10-27-2009, 09:48 AM | #14 |
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Re: need some advice...
As far as I know you dont rebuild a balancer.
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1970 Short/Fleet C-10 (Project) -Slammed and Tubbed 1955 Cameo -Straight six, Turbo Hydro option 1955 BelAir 2 door post -All original down to the oil bath air cleaner 1964 Corvette -All power A/C 327 4 spd. tanker |
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