how much will front end parts run me??

[jasonroman]

well folks i have an 82 chevy c10. just picked truck up about 2 weeks or so ago. speedo dont work along with a couple of other things. but since speedo dont work i figured id have to buy an inspection sticker. took it to a shop in edison where i figured id just pay for a sticker. late in the day i get a call and the dude tells me he just cant do it.
started rattling off thing that were wrong with truck. i hung up phone. when i went to pick truck up, dude showed me a 2 page list of things that need fixn.
mostley in my front end.
shocks, tie rods, bearings, and a whole bunch of other things up front. unfortunatley, i dont remember all the stuff wrong, but i thought maybe all i needed was a tune up and someone to hook up speedo. i know truck pulls to the right, figured alignement, but maybe its all the stuff thats messed up up front is why truck pulls so much. not sure where to start or what to look at.
not much of a mechanic. wish i was.....
id really like to keep truck and fix as i go. but dont have thousands to spend on fixing up an 82 right now.
o yea, im the one who was told truck had vette engine and is either a 305 or 350 with 305 heads???still didnt find numbers on block.

[cableguy0]

the front end parts arent that expensive. the same parts were used for almost 20 years. its all really common stuff. if your going to be paying someone to do it. labor shouldnt really be too terribly awful. did he give you a quote on doing the work?

[GmtGmt]

tie rods are like $10, shock about $21 for a decent monroe, bearings about $10
all at www.rockauto.com
prices arnt too bad but if you arnt a grease monkey or a saturday mechanic i woundt do it my self
or if you want to try go to www.youtube.com and seach for how to replace tierods, wheel bearing etc there are many good vids about it

[TylerHuff]

all that stuff is pretty easy to do once you get under there and look at it. as long as you have basic hand tools you can do it and then dont forget to get an alignment when youre done

[jasonroman]

thanks for reply guys. im gonna go to shop monday and see if i can get a copy of what he wrote down. i knew tune up stuff. but aside from that he had a heck of a list. i would like to do the stuff myself. just hate that i tend to take 5 off and only 3 go back. or i loose 1 or i brake something. you know the type. last time i tried to do a tune up an my 94 chevy(lowered sled) i happend to strip a spark plug on the way back in. im the type that would like to do it, just hate what happens when i mess it up.
anyway, ill try and get a list, and then try and find parts. i was looking at some of the parts i remembered and they were kinda cheap. hopefully it wont cost me too much and i can make it happen.
thanks again for the help guys. this site is really great.
if i were more a mechanic, im sure itd be better! but i do appreciate the help.
my wife dont know much about trucks

[old Rusty C10]

tell ya what im in NYC and if you need a hand and want to learn how to do this on your own, ill walk you through this. heck ill even bring tools if you dont have the right stuff.I used to live in Old Bridge and am out in NJ alot PM me if youre interested

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

tell ya what im in NYC and if you need a hand and want to learn how to do this on your own, ill walk you through this. heck ill even bring tools if you dont have the right stuff.I used to live in Old Bridge and am out in NJ alot PM me if youre interested

that is awsome. i would really appreciate the help. ill try and get my hands on the list of things wrong and then try and gather up the parts i need.
im 10 mins from old bridge, in sayreville.
only downfall is i do not have a garage.

[68 TT]

You definitely want to do this job as much on your own as you can if you are on a budget. Most shops charge ridiculous inflated "retail" prices for the parts and most of the time will not install anything that they don't provide for liability reasons.

The shops I checked wanted $70 each for my ball joints plus about the same apiece to install them if done all at once. Nearly $600 with tax and it came with only a 90 day warranty.

Lifetime warranty Moog parts from the local auto parts store were only $20 each. You could buy a floor jack, jack stands, ball joint & tie rod pickle forks, a nice 3-pound hammer and a 4" grinder plus all the other tools you would need to do the job for the difference in cost and still come out ahead.

You can borrow most of the tools needed from places like Schucks & AutoZone for free if you don't have the money to buy the tools.

I changed out all the ball joints and tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm and center link in just a couple hours. The parts alone were just under $300 after tax. Shocks are cheap too and you can easily do them at the same time you do the front end parts.

[Stitch]

that's awesome...I'd give you some reputation points if they hadn't gotten rid of it...

[old Rusty C10]

i dont mind working on the street if the cops wont hassle me or a driveway provided its not cold out. I have most of the tools and the only thing i would need is electric if i bring out my air tools to run a portable compressor. I was like you years back.. I was handed an outrageous repair bill for my first car and i figured that i better learn this myself before i wind up puttin someone else through college when i couldnt put myself through college lol I do the same with houses and have made money fixing both... and besidesworkin on things like this are not only fun but a great stress reliever

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

i dont mind working on the street if the cops wont hassle me or a driveway provided its not cold out. I have most of the tools and the only thing i would need is electric if i bring out my air tools to run a portable compressor. I was like you years back.. I was handed an outrageous repair bill for my first car and i figured that i better learn this myself before i wind up puttin someone else through college when i couldnt put myself through college lol I do the same with houses and have made money fixing both... and besidesworkin on things like this are not only fun but a great stress reliever

well i happen to have a nice driveway that would work. i have access to electric in driveway, i have a smaller compressor. i fix peoples homes for a living, wish i woulda got into the mechanics a while back. guess its never too late.

[jasonroman]

ball joints= 4? for the front only?
tie rods= 4? 2 upper and 2 lower for each side front only?
pitman arm=1??or 1 per side = 2???
idler arm=1?? or 1 per side??
center link?

auto parts warehouse prices =
588.00
4 ball joints
4 tie rods
2 pitman arms
2 idler arms

typed in center link and nothing came up. right now im just pricing parts that 68tt posted earlier. not sure if these are on the list, but pretty sure. dude made it sound like my whole front end was in bad shape.

[old Rusty C10]

another thing is that you can get tools cheap at harbor freight which is located behind Pearl Paint in the mall across from woodbridge on rte1 in woodbridge. I wouldnt use em professionally but for occasional use they will work

[Tx Firefighter]

4 Moog ball joints are going to run you 200 dollars.
4 tie rod ends are going to run 100 dollars.

That's parts price, no labor.

Cheaper stuff is exactly that.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

4 Moog ball joints are going to run you 200 dollars.
4 tie rod ends are going to run 100 dollars.

That's parts price, no labor.

Cheaper stuff is exactly that.

This is correct. If you dont need them ASAP, check amazon. I just picked up ALL the front end parts (MOOG), front and rear KYB shocks and Energy suspension bushings for the rear for $435.

The total for all the MOOG parts at Advance was going to be $513, without shocks...

Heres a break down, part number, then advance price vs amazon:


UBJ (x2): K6136 $46 $35
LBJ (x2): K6117T $36 $28.70
ITR (x2): ES409LT $25 $21.79
OTR (x2):ES409RT $25 $21.79
Idler: K6247T $89 $56.10
Pit: K6143 $61 $44.51

The KYB GR2 shocks I got are #344068 front and #344072 rear. Got them as a set for $88. They run between 35-40 each from what I saw everywhere else.

Hope this helps, I didnt think this stuff would be that expensive either.


edit: I marked the ones you need two of. You only need one pittman arm and one idler. The pittman arm goes on your steering box, the idler goes on the other side. Like Rusty C10 said, your center link should be ok.

[old Rusty C10]

the center link on these trucks is pretty much a piece of metal with no wearable parts. Unless its damaged in an accident or something there is no need to replace them... y ou may want to try advanced auto parts , or if you want to spend some time playing one against the other strauss and pep boys and one will usually try to beat the other. I buy alot of parts from Napa on rte 34 in Old Bridge ( Bridge Auto Parts) if you go there ask for Jim or Buddy and they tend to take care of you once they know you

[Tx Firefighter]

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

thanks for info and replies. my parts came out a bit less. but might not have had right amount of parts. ill try and re price acorrding to the things you put up. i dont have access to presses. guess ill price and try and buy parts and then get pricing on labor?

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

Part Price Core Quantity Total Remove
1982 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8 (L)
Steering : Tie Rod End
MOOG Part # ES409RT
Frt Strg; Outer; Problem Solver
$18.69 $0.00 $37.38
MOOG Part # ES409LT
Frt Strg; Inner; Problem Solver
$18.69 $0.00 $37.38
Steering : Idler Arm
MOOG Part # K6096T
Frt Strg; Problem Solver
$34.99 $0.00 $34.99
Suspension : Ball Joint
MOOG Part # K6117T
Frt Susp; Lower; Problem Solver
$26.89 $0.00 $53.78
MOOG Part # K6136
Frt Susp; Upper
$34.79 $0.00 $69.58
Suspension : Control Arm Bushing
MOOG Part # K6138
Frt Susp; Upper
$17.45 $0.00 $34.90
MOOG Part # K6422
Frt Susp; Lower; Problem Solver; Provides additional ride and performance handling benefits
$55.79 $0.00 $55.79
Steering : Pitman Arm
MOOG Part # K6143
Frt Strg; w/P/S; Exc. Variable Ratio P/S


total is a little under 400
looking to order this stuff tomorrow.
i think for shocks im gonna get 4 belltech lowering springs.

[74 C-30]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

^^makes me feel better about myself

i just did upper and lower ball joints and tie rods on my truck, and I am in no way a mechanic, just mechanically inclined. i had the advantage of a nice air compressor and impact wrench, but i didn't use any forks on either ball joints or tie rods, just the hammer method, bash the spindle 'til it pops out. to get the lower ball joint out I brought the a-arm to school and used the press. i honestly didn't think it was too hard, just take you time, think things through, and get a repair manual

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 74 C-30

^^makes me feel better about myself

i just did upper and lower ball joints and tie rods on my truck, and I am in no way a mechanic, just mechanically inclined. i had the advantage of a nice air compressor and impact wrench, but i didn't use any forks on either ball joints or tie rods, just the hammer method, bash the spindle 'til it pops out. to get the lower ball joint out I brought the a-arm to school and used the press. i honestly didn't think it was too hard, just take you time, think things through, and get a repair manual

Just make sure you leave the castle nuts on the ball joint studs most of the way so when the ball joint breaks free of the press fit it has on the spindle nothing goes flying. After the initial release you can jack up the lower a-arm and take the nuts the rest of the way off and lower the a-arm to release the spring pressure the rest of the way.

[SIXT8LOU]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

QUESTION... little mixed up,,i know the LBJ is pressed into the A arm...the control arm bushing? is that the cross shaft your referencing? thanks

[bluex]

http://www.google.com/products?q=K6247T&hl=en&aq=f

Not to stir it up, but there are the prices I posted for the idler. I was looking for the best price as well, did a google shopping search on the MOOG part numbers and that is what I found. Feel free to do the rest of them if you like....

[Tx Firefighter]

I wasn't referring to you bluex.

I was referring to the poster above who said "Lifetime warranty Moog parts from the local auto parts store were only $20 each."

I haven't found a place to sell me any Moog BJs for that price ever. That's why I said I felt prices were sometime under reported

[bluex]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I wasn't referring to you bluex.

I was referring to the poster above who said "Lifetime warranty Moog parts from the local auto parts store were only $20 each."

I haven't found a place to sell me any Moog BJs for that price ever. That's why I said I felt prices were sometime under reported

Missed that one..

Wish I could have found them for that price myself. The only thing I'm not sure about is if I have a warrenty issue. I sure no one at amazon will have a clue. Never had a issue with Mogg stuff though. Just "helpers" that decide to wail on the threads without the nut trying to break them loose.


Jason, I wont lie to you this is a rough job. But if rusty is willing to help you, and you rent a ball joint press. It can be done. Also run to your local northern tool or harbor freight and get a pickle fork set to get the old ball joints and tie rods loose. You can get that for less than $20. I just finished taking the donor front suspension apart that is going on my K5. I have about 6-7 hrs work in that alone. Plan a whole weekend to replace everything, and dont forget the alignment afterwards...