P.O.R Question

[Neal Molder]

I bought some P.O.R to do my new front end parts. Upper and lower a arm shafts. tie rods inner and outer. pitman arm etc.. Just wondering if anyone has used this stuff on new metal. I planned on using metal ready ,then p.o.r then chassis black as a top coat as recommended. just wondering if this is a good plan or not. The rest of my chassis is powdercoated black. Does anybody have experience with P.O.R and New Parts ?

[cdowns]

i've always blasted new parts to give some texture for the POR15 to adhere to as it doesnt stick so good to smooth new metal

[Neal Molder]

Thats going to be a pain, since i aready have my a arm shafts intalled on the freshly powdercoated a arms. Also i would have to take all parts to my sandblaster guy. And i'm also thinking my threads on my tie rods would look weird if i left them bare, but if i paint them with p.o.r i'll never be able to adjust them. I'm starting to realize why the majority of the guys on this site just leave them bare metal. Maybe i'll be better off just getting some good automotive paint in a spray bomb and spray them black to match the black powdercoat. Maybe P.o.r would be best in a different application? What do you think?
I know i'm getting a little anal but i do not want to have to redo any parts especially all the new parts once finished. A good spray paint properly applied might be good enough. especially because this truck will not be a driver. It will be a weekend warrior and trailor princess.

[Neal Molder]

Has anyone used P.O.R on new steel?

[dfwright]

I've also been blasting any parts before applying POR15, but the instruction sheet does give details on recommended procedure for new/smooth metal.

I would give them a call, the number is on the por15.com website, and ask them how best to handle what you want to do.

[brothers69c-10]

I painted a new set of springs with por 15 and it didn't turn out so hot. On the other hand everything that was blasted turned out great. I did the entire frame, axle, a-arms, and everything else in por 15 and love the way it turned out.

[Smallz72project]

This is just a suggestion. On the inner and outer tierod ends...I wouldnt go through that much trouble and cost to paint them with chassi black and por...stuff isnt cheap plus those are a wear item so you will end up replacing them eventually. If you do so feel inclined to go the extra mile I would just tape off the threads and then paint them however you choose. On the thread side..get yourself a bottle of anti-seize and be liberal with it on the threads....your alignment guy will thank you. This naturally coming from a certified alignment tech good luck and keep on truckin

PS. from what I have read in numorous threads and their own website, POR15 will not stick to bare metal, its made to adhere to rust. So if you just simply coat it...it will go on but will peel off shortly after however they do offer what you stated metal ready allow it to work.

[crakarjax]

Just use epoxy primer on clean metal, I use SPI and it works great.

[mrh33916]

If you go with a rattle can Rustoleum gloss black enamel matches gloss black POR-15 very well.

[Neal Molder]

Thanks for all who replied. I decided to go with some black gloss engine paint i had kickin around. I couldn't bare the thought of redoing if the p.o.r didn't stick.

What is epoxy primer? Is that just ordinary primer before you paint.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by Neal Molder

Thanks for all who replied. I decided to go with some black gloss engine paint i had kickin around. I couldn't bare the thought of redoing if the p.o.r didn't stick.

What is epoxy primer? Is that just ordinary primer before you paint.

Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel.

http://southernpolyurethanes.com/Tec...y%20Primer.htm

Epoxy primers remove the need for acid/etch primers.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/solv...an-143345.html

They even sell it in rattle cans now! I have had epoxy primer on my chevelle fenders for a year now in the elements, and it's going strong. Won't rust through because it's non-porous, and it won't degrade rapidly in UV like POR. IMO it should be the first coat on any metal surface.