bagged w/stock arms, x-member, bed floor pics

[cochino12]

I cant seem to get the suspension on my blazer the way I want and have come to the conclusion to bag it. I dont want to cut the floor, or spend the $$ on drop members or a-arms, steering issues ...

Does anyone have pictures of the truck/blazer with just drop spindles and bags, simple 4 link rear and stock floor? Everyone seems really concerned with laying frame and thats really all I find while searching for pictures. Thanks

II did find this truck in the FAQ
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=356469

[stevieB]

X2

[Twisted78SS]

For what year Blazer?

My 70 is converted to 2wd with trailing arms and bags in the back, drop spindles and bags in the front. It actually sits a bit lower than this (need updated pics) as these tires are 295/50/15 on 8 inch Rallye with a modified Dana 60. In the front the stock shocks are a bit too long so it was holding the front up a bit.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by Twisted78SS

For what year Blazer?

My 70 is converted to 2wd with trailing arms and bags in the back, drop spindles and bags in the front. It actually sits a bit lower than this (need updated pics) as these tires are 295/50/15 on 8 inch Rallye with a modified Dana 60. In the front the stock shocks are a bit too long so it was holding the front up a bit.

I was hoping to see pics of 73-87's but I assume any year will give me an idea, your 70 is pretty damn cool!!

[lolife99]

Adam,...
Ken's (n2trux) truck is probably the best example.
Look at his pics.
An Air Over Leaf set-up in the rear might be the best bet.

[N2TRUX]

Thanks for the props Keith.
Adam take a look at what Travis is running-78 2wd Blazer BuildThat's a pretty simple set up for the rear of a Blazer.

The front is all standard issue stuff. Use 3" spindles, bags and cups. You will need to build a custom bumpstop to allow it to roll when aired out.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Adam,...
Ken's (n2trux) truck is probably the best example.
Look at his pics.
An Air Over Leaf set-up in the rear might be the best bet.

Thats what I was going to do originally but the guys at airride told me I had too much motor and would get a lot of axle wrap and would lead to breaking a leaf spring if I did AOL

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Thanks for the props Keith.
Adam take a look at what Travis is running-78 2wd Blazer BuildThat's a pretty simple set up for the rear of a Blazer.

The front is all standard issue stuff. Use 3" spindles, bags and cups. You will need to build a custom bumpstop to allow it to roll when aired out.

I was reading his thread again earlier and I'm a little confused. With the bag mounted like that it looks like the rear wont go any lower than it would with just a flip right? If that is the case do I just add a block to my flip and then some lowering shackles and use the bag for lift?

If I read correctly he had it aired out in this picture, I think mine is lower than that now. I was thinking a 4-link might be the way to go and still gain a little traction over running leaf springs.

EDIT: Yep, flip and shackles and the bags are for lift, pretty cool. I re-read the thread

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by cochino12

Thats what I was going to do originally but the guys at airride told me I had too much motor and would get a lot of axle wrap and would lead to breaking a leaf spring if I did AOL.

I'm not going to disagree with the designers of a system, but I can tell you from my personal experience. I ran the AOL with two leafs for several years. With the original motor it wasn't a concern due to lack of power. With the Ramjet motor I never experienced any issues. Granted I never launch the truck, but with an aggressive jump off the line all I do is spin.

EDIT: Yep, flip and shackles and the bags are for lift, pretty cool. I re-read the thread.

Yes, get it low to raise it up. With that set up and a mild c-notch you will be at a point where your axle is hitting the bed floor.


My 82 Blazer had a "triangulated" four link. In my mind it was not the optimum set up. The rear liked to walk around due to minimal triangulation.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I'm not going to disagree with the designers of a system, but I can tell you from my personal experience. I ran the AOL with two leafs for several years. With the original motor it wasn't a concern due to lack of power. With the Ramjet motor I never experienced any issues. Granted I never launch the truck, but with an aggressive jump off the line all I do is spin.Yes, get it low to raise it up. With that set up and a mild c-notch you will be at a point where your axle is hitting the bed floor.


My 82 Blazer had a "triangulated" four link. In my mind it was not the optimum set up. The rear liked to walk around due to minimal triangulation.

The guys at suicide doors told me if I were going 4 link I should go with a paralell 4-link but they only sold 4-links designed for laying frame. I think the setup Travis is using looks like the easiest/cheapest for right now.

In this picture here it looks like the bag might still be holding the rear up a little, I'm not sure if the axle is resting on the floor though. If it's not I would think a bracket like this, might be a better option?


[IMG]http://www.*****************/files/imagecache/product/Behind_Axle_Lower.jpg[/IMG]

[tvblazer78]

Adam here is a better pic of mine, with all the air out it will lay on the frame. I am thinking of changing it up with a 4 link and I would some good pics..

[andrewmp6]

That picture the front is sitting on the headers it looks like is why its not lower.

[smashingchuck]

Hmm... I told you so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[N2TRUX]

Adam take a look at the bag mounts on my 82. I am pretty sure that's what you have pictured. If it were me I would go with that set up on the axle and used a tapered sleeve bag.

You could probably run that as an AOL and see if you like it. If not, go to a 4 link later.

[smashingchuck]

Travis is the ride pretty bouncy withthat style bag in there? Seems like a sleeve bag would ride better.

[tvblazer78]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

Travis is the ride pretty bouncy withthat style bag in there? Seems like a sleeve bag would ride better.

It did a little at first, then I found some stiff shocks and that fixed it. Now it rides like a log wagon.. Not that bad.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Adam take a look at the bag mounts on my 82. I am pretty sure that's what you have pictured. If it were me I would go with that set up on the axle and used a tapered sleeve bag.

You could probably run that as an AOL and see if you like it. If not, go to a 4 link later.

I think it might make more sense to just do a 4 link right away and be done with it. Seems like everyone that has a AOL or similar setup is wanting to change to a 4 link

Originally Posted by tvblazer78

And some of the pics I found that I would like to do..

Here is a link this guy makes them and sells them for K5's

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...5370&viewitem=

Trav

I called and talked to this guy for a few minutes today, sounds like a pretty good/easy setup. That being said I know next to nothing about 4-links, is there anything in particular I need to ask or know before I buy?

Thanks for all of your help guys, it seems like the more I read the more I confuse myself. There is a LOT of information on the net and seems like everyone has different opinions.

[smashingchuck]

I think you are on the right track going with the four link from the beginning. You'll be happy you did. I would also encourage you to stick with a tapered sleeve bag out back.

You haven't mentioned air management. Got any ideas yet?

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I think you are on the right track going with the four link from the beginning. You'll be happy you did. I would also encourage you to stick with a tapered sleeve bag out back.

You haven't mentioned air management. Got any ideas yet?

I'm not real sure yet, the more I read the more my head starts spinning! I called suicide doors with the hope that they could help but they werent much help. They suggested this kit with the 2600 bags

http://www.*****************/air-mana...minator-bags-5

Any suggestions?

[lolife99]

Adam,...
Your "limiting factor" is the floor.

Go out and look at your blazer now and see how close the center section of the rearend, is to the floor.
That's all the lower you are going.

I would c-notch it first.
Then bolt on some 20's.
Then get out a tape measure.

Unless you pull the front inner fenders, (or modify them), you aren't going to go much lower.
Plus air'd out,... the crossmember will hit the ground, if you pull the inner fenders.
If you don't,... you'll have to run a bumpstop to keep the tires off the inners.

That's kinda the problem with MY blazer.
I wanted to not cut the floor, or remove the inner fenders.
I actually drove my blazer lower, when I had my ralleys on it.
Now that I have 20's and air ride,... sure it will set lower,... but my ride height is taller due to the 20's tire height.
Remember, you still have to air up the front enough to get the alignment back.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Adam,...
Your "limiting factor" is the floor.

Go out and look at your blazer now and see how close the center section of the rearend, is to the floor.
That's all the lower you are going.

I would c-notch it first.
Then bolt on some 20's.
Then get out a tape measure.

Unless you pull the front inner fenders, (or modify them), you aren't going to go much lower.
Plus air'd out,... the crossmember will hit the ground, if you pull the inner fenders.
If you don't,... you'll have to run a bumpstop to keep the tires off the inners.

That's kinda the problem with MY blazer.
I wanted to not cut the floor, or remove the inner fenders.
I actually drove my blazer lower, when I had my ralleys on it.
Now that I have 20's and air ride,... sure it will set lower,... but my ride height is taller due to the 20's tire height.
Remember, you still have to air up the front enough to get the alignment back.

I've already got a c-notch in the rear, it looks like it will go about 4" lower in the back before the axle hits the tub which is plenty for me. If I end up having to re-work the tub that fine but I dont think I'm going to have to.

As far as the front I'll probably either just pull the inner fenders temporarily and down the road I'll do some modification to them. If/when I bump up to 20"s a 245-40-20 is only abou 1/4" taller than the 15" tire than I'm running now so I really dont see too much worry there. I dont need this thing to lay frame so if the crossmember hits it will still be low enough for me but just in case it's not I've already got a buddy working on chopping a x-member for me like justpball did with his burb.

[N2TRUX]

Adam I agree that doing it once is the right way. The problem is it opens up a can of worms and you don't know where to stop.

Bolting on a rear 4 link isn't that big of a deal. What becomes an issue is how to mount a locater bar. A parallel for like has to have a 5th bar to keep the axle centered. It is usually in the form of a panhard bar, or watts link. That is where you will need to do your most research.


As Keith mentioned your front is pretty simple. With 3" spindles, 2600 bogs mounted to short cups you can lay the crossmember with the liners removed or modded. That's going to get you pretty low. Anything lower will require a modded crossmember and removal or mods to the A/C system.

I suggest you decide what your stopping point is before you jump in to it.

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Adam I agree that doing it once is the right way. The problem is it opens up a can of worms and you don't know where to stop.

Bolting on a rear 4 link isn't that big of a deal. What becomes an issue is how to mount a locater bar. A parallel for like has to have a 5th bar to keep the axle centered. It is usually in the form of a panhard bar, or watts link. That is where you will need to do your most research.


As Keith mentioned your front is pretty simple. With 3" spindles, 2600 bogs mounted to short cups you can lay the crossmember with the liners removed or modded. That's going to get you pretty low. Anything lower will require a modded crossmember and removal or mods to the A/C system.

I suggest you decide what your stopping point is before you jump in to it.

Well fortunatly my budget will eliminate me from going to far with the suspension. I'm also very luck to have a friend that built and designed suspension and other chassis parts professionally for over 20 years and is excited to help me out with the rear. Like I mentioned earlier I really dont care if this think lays frame but what I really hate is the rear sitting lower than the front. That is the main reason I'm pretty sure I wont have to cut the tub.

this is thrtxschambers from the c10 board, if I can get my front as low as his and keep the rear level I'll be happy

[smashingchuck]

If cost is going to limit you I would stay away from any crossmember modification.

[Stitch]

why is that smashing chuck...is chopping the crossmember going to incure any more purchases besides rebuilding the front end ball joints and control arm shafts? just wondering...I have a spare crossmember that I was planning on chopping in anticipation of lowering my 84 swb

[N2TRUX]

Steering shaft is the first thing that comes to mind. Those Borgeson joints aint cheap.