Project 59 Apache "1st Build"

[Fat Mike]

I'm not sure what happened to my build thread, so I decided that I would start another one. I am still building my truck with the inspiration of everyone on this site and my new founded friends. I will try to update this thread as fast as possible. I have posted several pictures to my photo album of my trucks so please take a look.

Here is the truck that my girlfriend's dad bought new in 59'.









It has several areas of concern with very extensive rust problems.

[Fat Mike]

Here are some of the parts that I have already acquired for this build:

55 Belair Dash

96 Mustang 8.8 rearend with disk brakes


Right-handed steering box out of a postal jeep. It has already been refurbished and is identical to s-10 steering box, just backwards.

Here are my 20's with low profile tires

[Fat Mike]

Here are a few more parts:
Air bags and brackets

Hood and fender emblems

Here is a donor 78 3/4 chevy truck that I will be using. I plan on using the 350 motor and tranny combo, the hydroboost brake system, and as many other small accessories as possible.

[Fat Mike]

Well I decided because of the amount of rust inside the inner cowl panels I would remove the whole inner cowl where the vents are and shave the cowl vent. I plan on putting speakers in this area. I am not sure yet but I think I will weld this panel in solid after i do alittle repair to the inner cowl and firewall. I used two pieces of 16 gauge for this mod.

[Fat Mike]

I have not made up my mind yet but have see several trucks that have been done with the s-10 conversion on 55-59 trucks. There is a local guy here that has built several of them and says the stance is alittle narrow but he either widens the stance using longer tubular a-arms or converts it to the camaro a-arms. Here is the 86 s-10 frame I have started to shave and clean up. I noticed that there are about 100 holes in the frame so I will weld them up.




Attachment 579284

[Fat Mike]

I removed the stock crossmemeber that runs along the back end of the truck frame after checking to see if the frame was square. The frame was off about 3/16". I used a piece of 2x4 1/8" piece of tubing and welded it in solid. Here is a picture of the 76 camaro a-arms that I may use to widen the stance.

[chev3600]

Score!

[Kim57]

Mike
I agree with OrrieG. I wouldn't worry about using filler as long as the metal is solid underneath it.
Use a quality brand like Evercoat (not Bondo). The modern fillers are very good.
Kim

[Fat Mike]

Well, tonight I finally had sometime to make a small patch panel.

[youngrodder]

Mike-

It looks lie you are making some good progress. Are you going to use the white cab now in place of the yellow one? It looks to be in pretty good shape.

Marc

[Fat Mike]

I plan on using the white one as a almost stock truck. The yellow one will be the wilder truck.

[Tri5Nerd]

Keep going Mike. The truck build is looking good, how are you coming with the frame?

[yukon ratrod]

nice to see you scored a good cab! are you planning on using it or using it for parts? keep up the good work. Ive been busy working on my fathers 65 fastback mustang, so havent got to work on the truck for a few weeks. will post some picts of the mustang tonight! cheers

[Fat Mike]

I have the white 59 over at a friends house who is going to blast it for me for $50. I know that seams cheap but he does this for a living and is very good at it.

[hotrod1]

Keep Going. We am in the same boat. We am not that happy with my firewall either and am contemplating tearing it out and starting over. I think it is because we are perfectionists. I also expect that the metal should be good enough not to use filler. Not going to happen so I am told. I am sure there are a few guys here that can do that though.

[Fat Mike]

Last night was the first time I had time and felt up to working on my truck in awhile. I am still messing around with the first 59 truck cab that I had. I welded in a patch panel but can never seem to get it lined up so that when I sand it down it all blends in real well.







If you look at the finally picture you can still see all the welds and it would seem that I would have to use alot of body filler. But all the wholes are welded up. HAHA!!

[Kabwe]

Hey Fatmike

I'm only putting my 2 cents in because you asked me to take a look, I don't like sounding like a know it all. Work on panel fitment, when you butt weld try to have tighter gaps. If the metal is slightly touching that's great. Your gaps should not be wider then the welding wire. Shaped your patch to perfection before you start welding, and if you have access to back (in this case you don't) grind your welds and use you hammer on dolly to stretch the metal back to its original shape (welding causes shrinkage, sometimes very little but always) as you are welding it in. Now for metal finish I use a flap disc or a cut wheel to knock the weld down close, then I use a roloc disc on an air grinder and finish it off with a hand file when possible. Number one thing with sheetmetal is to keep the metal cool so take your time and give the metal time to cool. Thats why I work my welds as I'm welding it gives the metal time to cool as I am knocking down the weld beads. I hope this helped.

I think your problem in the above pic is the result of panel fitment and too my heat (looks like your patch panel warped). It took a lot of welding (heat) to close those gaps.

[hotrod1]

Nice description, I needed that.

[Kabwe]

Oh yeah when you hammer on dolly to stretch the metal, hammer only the HAZ (heat affected zone). The haz is the area where the metal changed colors from the heat. Back to keeping the metal cool while welding if you can't touch it with you bare hand its too hot to weld in that area. Skip around man, patience is a virtue is serious when doing patch work.

That will be 50 bucks and I do take checks.lol

[W.C. RoDz]

Well said!...Lookn good..

[Fat Mike]

Kawbe, you are definetly the man!! Thank you very much and I hope that if you ever need a hand, part. or money ($50 you said) let me know. LOL I live pretty far but, I am always looking for a reason to go to Cali.

[dewey777]

I also found it helps to grind down the welds as you go. Stitch, grind, stitch, grind, with cooling in between. That seemed to make it easier once you get down to stitching the welds together. Not sure if anyone else does it this way or not

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by dewey777

I also found it helps to grind down the welds as you go. Stitch, grind, stitch, grind, with cooling in between. That seemed to make it easier once you get down to stitching the welds together. Not sure if anyone else does it this way or not

I mentioned that, I just said it in a different way.lol But its a good point to keep bringing up because its very important for several reasons. 1. It allows the metal to cool while your work on the welds. 2. You can see where to tack or fill clearly. 3. After you grind you can work the area with your hammer on dolly to stretch the metal back to its original state.

If you want really nice metal finishing with minimal use of filler you need stretch that metal back to its original state. Don't wait to finish your bead to do it either its that much harder if you do that. You tack it in grind your welds hit the haz with the hammer on dolly. Then tack new areas grind your welds hit the haz with the hammer on dolly. You do this until its completely welded in. Now if you don't have access to the back you just tack and grind and keep the metal cool as you can.

[65Pickup]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Oh yeah when you hammer on dolly to stretch the metal, hammer only the HAZ (heat affected zone). The haz is the area where the metal changed colors from the heat. Back to keeping the metal cool while welding if you can't touch it with you bare hand its too hot to weld in that area. Skip around man, patience is a virtue is serious when doing patch work.

That will be 50 bucks and I do take checks.lol

Great descriptions, can't wait to try this. Is a flux core wire feed a poor choice for this type of work any reason why? For the number of people you helped with this, getting $10 from everyone may pay for your build. Thanks for the education.

[ambryatim]

Kawbe....
What kind of wire are you using??? Regular solid core??
I was wondering if you ever use/used Silica Bronze AKA....Silicone Bronze wire. I heard that it is a little more forgiving then regular solid wire. What do you think???