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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: St.Peters, MO
Posts: 2,226
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gutter seal
What is everyone using to seal up the gutter area up on the roof and goes down the back of door. I saw one body shop use some self leveling compound and looked really nice until it got to the area in back of the door where the gravity took over!
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#2 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN
Posts: 11,422
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Re: gutter seal
I think 3M makes something not sure
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 321
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Re: gutter seal
Shoot some Epoxy primer and then use 3M 08307 Automix Self-Leveling Seam Sealer. The back side can be done. I made a tool out of plastic (like a small putty kinfe)that fit in the grove and used to level it out.
Last edited by Hawker7; 05-10-2010 at 09:12 PM. |
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#4 | |
Project '67 454
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 283
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Re: gutter seal
Quote:
Here's a tip for you, Mask off the side of the cab under each driprail and the door jams about a foot down and just let the excess run down until it hardens. Also, you will need to get a applicator gun especially for that seam sealer. I read somewhere that some paint stores may rent one, I don't know, fortunatly my friend is a painter so I was able to borrow one for the weekend from the shop where he works. And like Hawker 7 said, per the directions you must first put down epoxy or urethane primer. It can't go over bare metal or etch primer.
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67 C-10 SWB Fleetside 454 (current project) ![]() 99 Crewcab SWB Dually 454 ![]() 75 Datsun 280ZZ430 ![]() 94 Formula 232LS 454 ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montana
Posts: 223
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Re: gutter seal
The self-leveling filler is sandable after it dries, so if you don't like the look of some of it, you can sand it smooth, and maybe skim some more on if needed.
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#6 |
Out of the carpool lane.
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clark Co, WA
Posts: 5,673
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Re: gutter seal
The 3M seam sealer works just as good as the dual tube epoxy system and it's only about $10 as opposed to the waaaaaaaaaaaay more expensive epoxy type. I highly recommend it.
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Posts: 623
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Re: gutter seal
Here's what I used. It was $11. Specifically made for drip rails, they said.
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#8 |
69 Fleetside
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Posts: 333
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Re: gutter seal
I have used both products. Initially I used the drip-chek and it was a messy nightmare during application. After letting it sit and dry for 3 days I went back to check on it and found that there were multiple places it hadn't even stuck to the primer, had lots of bubbles underneath and looked just awful - it would do nothing but allow the drip rail to rust and corrode, not to mention be very bumpy since it remains rubbery and is unsandable(smooth anyway). I spent the next 4 hours with a wire wheel removing it all and prepping the rail once again for another product, this time I went with the 8307 Automix. I placed the truck on level ground, shot it into the drip rail and watched magic happen in front of my eyes. It looked flawless except for the vertical sides where I would let it slowly run down as it hardened and kept wiping the excess from running down the door. After a longer than needed 1 hour sit time(big whoop compared to 3 days!), I began sanding the vertical pieces smooth. It looks flawless and was well worth the 30 bucks more for the product and gun rental. I spent $80 trying both kinds, 8307 Automix all the way, you'll regret it if you don't man!
Last edited by Beatcoaster; 05-12-2010 at 01:05 AM. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: newbury park california
Posts: 1,038
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Re: gutter seal
I used a product called marglass its a little hard to work with but one good trait it has is it doesn't run down the back of your cabs drip rails (worked great for me) just have to get after it soon as it sets up. used my finger as a sanding profile. blends with the drip edge to cab. sorry, no pics I'll work on that. give it a try on small stuff first . dries real hard + no cracking so far its been four years! best of luck, Pat
Last edited by pat 70/71; 05-12-2010 at 01:38 AM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: St.Peters, MO
Posts: 2,226
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Re: gutter seal
Thanks for all your ideas, now I just have to choose one of them and go with it
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: princeton, ky
Posts: 63
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Re: gutter seal
Uh... I feel like an idiot. But what is this for? Just to keep the rails from rusting out? Or to smooth them away? Havent gotten to this yet...
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72 c-10 lwb: mild 350 , turbo 350 w shift kit, 3.73, drop spindles and rear drop springs, e-fan, relocated fuel tank, roll pan, Progressive wheels, 02 silverado buckets&console |
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#12 |
(007) aka Houdini
![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ROCKMART/ROME GA
Posts: 354
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Re: gutter seal
Sem products makes a seam sealer that is 2 part but you put it in a special gun and it squeezes out together, that works great as well this is what i plan to use on my truck when i get to it ...lol
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Live life one day at a time! |
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#13 |
Project '67 454
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 283
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Re: gutter seal
The first time I did mine I used 3M Fast and Firm. It looked good at first but as it cured over several weeks it shrunk, cracked, and broke loose from the sides.
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67 C-10 SWB Fleetside 454 (current project) ![]() 99 Crewcab SWB Dually 454 ![]() 75 Datsun 280ZZ430 ![]() 94 Formula 232LS 454 ![]() |
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#14 |
69 Fleetside
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Posts: 333
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Re: gutter seal
mdwilf, I haven't used the single tube stuff but imagine that it is isn't much different than the check-seal. The 2 part stuff's greatest property is that it self levels and flows, then cures quickly. It will look like a pro did it, remain flexible, and is sandable....I saw that stuff right next to the check-seal and 2 part epoxy and just bit the bullet and got what everyone had suggested. Even something with the consistency of RTV is going to tough to work with - there is nothing better than pumping the goo into the drip rail and watching it just go flat with zero involvement!!
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#15 | |
(007) aka Houdini
![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ROCKMART/ROME GA
Posts: 354
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Re: gutter seal
Quote:
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