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02-14-2003, 04:54 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: carthage, tx
Posts: 108
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rust questions
there are a couple of rust spots poping up on my drip rails....my question is what should my plan of acction be.....if the rust is as shown what is it going to look like under the drip rail sealant?....how should I attack this problem? attached are some pics of the current problem
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1968 C20 long bed http://home.earthlink.net/~yup00 |
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02-14-2003, 04:55 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: carthage, tx
Posts: 108
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pic 2
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1968 C20 long bed http://home.earthlink.net/~yup00 |
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02-14-2003, 04:57 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gilroy, CA
Posts: 1,453
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I also have this problem on my suburban. But my drip rail is gone in some spots.
I would say strip down the bad spots ASAP and get some kinda rust stopper on it. To atleast slow it down.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds. 1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s 1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. " |
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02-14-2003, 05:42 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN USA
Posts: 189
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Rust Spots
Almost identical to mine. I'm just afraid of what is next. If there's any help (hope) for us, it will be here. TF
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02-14-2003, 09:45 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: carthage, tx
Posts: 108
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ok so...tommorow I am going to scrape, grind, and otherwise remove all the sealant in order to replace it..assuming I don't find too much other cancer....
what can be recommended in order to get the paint back on asuming that I don't have a paint gun or big enough compressor? and i am not quite ready to get the whole thing painted yet nor do i have the resourses to get it to a body shop at this point in time..........
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1968 C20 long bed http://home.earthlink.net/~yup00 |
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02-14-2003, 09:50 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 223
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Por-15 has a product that works great on the drip rail problem, I have used it to protect from this ever happening again to the drips on my truck. Now lets hope the product actually holds up to what they claim.
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1972 chevy k10 4x4 longbed 4-inch lift, 3.73 front/rears, frame off nearly complete 1972 chevy k10 4x4 longbed parts truck, known as the "ugly green machine" 1990 GMC 3/4 shortbed ext cab Always in need of 67-72 parts in central ks. |
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02-14-2003, 10:19 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: carthage, tx
Posts: 108
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is the por15 product that has been mentioned the Por - Patch or something different?
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1968 C20 long bed http://home.earthlink.net/~yup00 |
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02-15-2003, 12:07 AM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 500
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A wire brush on a drill will strip out the sealant and old paint. There are acid based products that will penetrate the rust and convert it to a black oxide. Ospho is one brand... chemprime is another. After that stuff dries, you can prime and paint.
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69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com |
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02-15-2003, 12:31 AM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 223
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The por-15 product I used was chassis coat black with a coat of top coat produced by por. It has worked wonders and they claim no more rust problems. It also accepts primer and paint without any problems.
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1972 chevy k10 4x4 longbed 4-inch lift, 3.73 front/rears, frame off nearly complete 1972 chevy k10 4x4 longbed parts truck, known as the "ugly green machine" 1990 GMC 3/4 shortbed ext cab Always in need of 67-72 parts in central ks. |
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02-15-2003, 12:51 AM
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: carthage, tx
Posts: 108
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so you just used the por as a primper/rust controler and then still used a sealant product on top of that? or did it fill the gap as well?
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1968 C20 long bed http://home.earthlink.net/~yup00 |
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02-15-2003, 12:54 AM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 500
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In an area that gets so much standing water, it is a good idea to use a brushable seam sealer below your color cote. You can mask off the cab so that you don't brush it too far up, and remove the masking tape for a pretty clean sealed joint
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69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com |
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02-15-2003, 12:57 AM
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 223
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Yes that is pretty much what I did. I talked directly to a rep for por-15 and the claim that I did'nt need to put a sealant product over the por product but I wanted to add a little more protection. The por product is an excellent water repellant/deterant and can by what the rep said can be used alone. Like I say though the product in my eyes is a life saver for our older trucks in that we may now be able to stop some of those usual rust out locations. LOL
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1972 chevy k10 4x4 longbed 4-inch lift, 3.73 front/rears, frame off nearly complete 1972 chevy k10 4x4 longbed parts truck, known as the "ugly green machine" 1990 GMC 3/4 shortbed ext cab Always in need of 67-72 parts in central ks. |
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