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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: independence mo
Posts: 2,111
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Wheel spacers and longer studs
I want to lower my truck, But to do it I will need a 1/2" spacer on the rear. My question is in order to put in longer studs do you have to pull the axle? Thanks.
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I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was. |
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#2 |
Tot Roddin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 24,461
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
Mike, you shouldn't have too, but that will depend on how long the new studs actually are.
I needed to have longer studs on the rear with my new wheels and I was able to remove the drum, knock out the old ones with a BFH, and then "draw" in the new longer studs with a socket, and a stack of washers. You might have to turn the axle to get the right spot to fit the new studs in but overall as long as they are not excessively longer, you should be ok.
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-Nate ![]() 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package) |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Francisco, CA USA
Posts: 2,454
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
There is enough room to install the studs without pulling the shafts, but it's not the best idea to hammer them out. The hammer blows get transferred to the spider pin and ultimately to the differential bearings. A tool is made specifically for this purpose
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...auto_tool.html but it is hard to justify the cost for a one-time job. You might want to see if a tool rental outfit has one. Having said all this, I have hammered them myself and haven't destroyed any rear ends.....yet. Ray Last edited by raycow; 06-19-2010 at 03:45 PM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: independence mo
Posts: 2,111
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
Thanks
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I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,859
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
Yea! A new use for my ball joint/hub C-press! Woot!
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'70 GMC C1500 LWB Power disc brakes. WooHoo! Posi 6 Lug Dana 60 |
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#6 |
Big Red - Now its a SWB!
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Oroville, Ca
Posts: 1,624
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
I was just thinking ball joint press/C-clamp as I was reading this post.
As far as the strength of adapters vs spacers it seems to me that if you use a spacer then the wheel is still connected directly to the axle so if the spacer were to crack the wheel would still be attached. But if you had an adapter crack then the wheel could come off. I know it's a long shot that either would happen, but I'm just sayin...
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68 3/4 ton ![]() ![]() 41 3/4 ton ![]() 01 Tahoe LT 4WD (my daily driver)-Magnaflow Muffler, Rollin on 22's 02 Ford Mustang Convertable (Wife's Car)-Flowmaster 50, Clear corners, Intake, sittin on 18's Last edited by Jacfourteen; 06-20-2010 at 01:30 PM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Granbury, TEXAS
Posts: 250
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
The 3/4" wheel spacers I used came with studs and holes and nuts for the original studs. Their studs where in-between my studs. Just put the ring (spacer) on like your wheel and use their flat nuts to tighten spacer to the wheel hub. The spacer's studs where then used to mount my wheels using my lug nuts. Hope this makes sense. I ordered 5 on 5" to a 5 on 5" with 3/4" width. It was called a wheel adaptor.
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Mine is chopped, has a clutch, and a big block. |
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#8 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marysville, OH
Posts: 667
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
For the money that adapters cost it's almost worth it to avoid the work. The way you are describing, you would have to buy new studs and the spacers, then do all the work to swap them out. When you're done you have a setup that probably isn't as durable as your original.
You can get a set of two billet aluminum spacers all over the net for $90 that will do exactly what you want to do, and they are engineered to give you the same durability as the stock setup. You can get them in the same bolt pattern, or you can get them as adapters to change the bolt pattern. http://adaptitusa.com/
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1957 GMC Ambulance 1962 Belair Wagon 1963 C80 Truck Cab *FOR SALE* 1969 Chevy C10 Short Bed 1972 Chevy C10 Long Bed *SOLD* 1996 C3500 Dually *SOLD* |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,859
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
Quote:
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'70 GMC C1500 LWB Power disc brakes. WooHoo! Posi 6 Lug Dana 60 |
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#10 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marysville, OH
Posts: 667
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
Ah, I missed that. You're right, those billet adapters start at 1" thick. Don't know what I was thinking.
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1957 GMC Ambulance 1962 Belair Wagon 1963 C80 Truck Cab *FOR SALE* 1969 Chevy C10 Short Bed 1972 Chevy C10 Long Bed *SOLD* 1996 C3500 Dually *SOLD* |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,859
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
Actually, they start at 1.3" which is quite a lot X2.
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'70 GMC C1500 LWB Power disc brakes. WooHoo! Posi 6 Lug Dana 60 |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: independence mo
Posts: 2,111
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Re: Wheel spacers and longer studs
I don't know if I want come out an inch. I'm going to have to do some measurements.
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I'm not as good as I once was, But I'm as good once as I ever was. |
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