help on getting the C10s crossmember on the pavement

[avysittinon22s]

My current front setup is- upper plates, lower 1 1/4" cups, stock arms, bumpstops removed, 3" spindles, 2600lbs bags, 27" tall tire.

Tubular upper and lowers on the list for sure. I dont really wanta spend a grand on a drop member yet and not really looking to lay frame, so Im looking into sectioning the crossmember 1.5" and moving the steering box up.

Anyone have any accurate info or pics if the crossmember will lay if I add the arms and section the crossmember? Currently frame is 3.5" from pavement. Id like to get it 1.5"-2".

[209jose71]

u have any pic of ur truck i was thinking of doing that to i wanted to do 22s on my truck front and back thanks

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by avysittinon22s

My current front setup is- upper plates, lower 1 1/4" cups, stock arms, bumpstops removed, 3" spindles, 2600lbs bags, 27" tall tire.

Tubular upper and lowers on the list for sure. I dont really wanta spend a grand on a drop member yet and not really looking to lay frame, so Im looking into sectioning the crossmember 1.5" and moving the steering box up.

Anyone have any accurate info or pics if the crossmember will lay if I add the arms and section the crossmember? Currently frame is 3.5" from pavement. Id like to get it 1.5"-2".

Yes, if you do all the mentioned work, your front c.member will lay.

[avysittinon22s]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yes, if you do all the mentioned work, your front c.member will lay.

Thanks for the response

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by avysittinon22s

....
Tubular upper and lowers on the list for sure. I dont really wanta spend a grand on a drop member yet and not really looking to lay frame, so Im looking into sectioning the crossmember 1.5" and moving the steering box up.....

May I suggest saving your money and doing it right? It seems every time someone tries to save money by going with a sectioned crossmeber , they end up regretting it.

Unless you have the ability to do it 100% yourself, I don't think your going to be happy. Take a look here for more info- LINK

[GVizzle]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

May I suggest saving your money and doing it right? It seems every time someone tries to save money by going with a sectioned crossmeber , they end up regretting it.

Unless you have the ability to do it 100% yourself, I don't think your going to be happy. Take a look here for more info- LINK

I agree. Save up and buy a dropmember if you want to lay.

[dv8customs]

I would say it is a bit unfair to claim that sectioning the cross member is not the "right" way to do it. It does come with it's own set of challenges and while it may not be the best choice I would not say that it is not A right way. If you don't want to spend the money on an aftermarket cross member then I would recommend you Z the frame instead. That allows all your steering components to move together.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by dv8customs

I would say it is a bit unfair to claim that sectioning the cross member is not the "right" way to do it. It does come with it's own set of challenges and while it may not be the best choice I would not say that it is not A right way. If you don't want to spend the money on an aftermarket cross member then I would recommend you Z the frame instead. That allows all your steering components to move together.

Valid points. I agree in looking back that my statement sounds a bit negative toward sectioing. Unfortunately, I will have a similiar reply about Z'ing a frame.

Both ways have their place, and if executed properly will work just fine. My concern is how many guys have the fab skills that you do? I take that in to consideration when I respond. Usually if someone has the fab skills they already know how they want to do it.

[BACKYARD88]

I sectioned my crossmember 1.25" and other than clearancing the stock lower arms a bit I didn't have to do any other mods. The steering box was fine where it was.
Now for my opinion(I know, everybodys got one...) I did the wole list of mods on the front of mine to lay out. I can do anything that needs to be done myself no questions asked but, I now have a Dropmember. It wasn't in my budget but standing in front of the sectioned, Zed and cupped front end and thinking about all of the things that I still had to work through convinced me my time is worth more than a Dropmember costs Honestly, even if you have all of the time in the world, it's not worth what you will save in the long run. Tubular arms are great but I went for function over form and bought a Dropmember and will use stock arms for now.

[VA72C10]

You don't have to use the dropmember to lay frame. Use it as the tool to lay crossmember with proper steering geometry and have great handling. Use the stock arms for now if budget is a concern....tubular uppers and lowers will cost almost as much as the dropmember...especially since I've seen a few dropmembers selling for deals lately...

[VA72C10]

also, if you are like most guys that aren't satisfied till they end up laying frame, you'll already have the dropmember installed for that next stage of drop...

[dv8customs]

I agree, a dropmember is a great bolt on solution. No guessing and a minimal amount of fab work is needed to install one.

[sweetnlow67]

cut a hold in your lower control arm, put a piece of pipe in it and recess your bag and you will lay frame without spending a bunch of money

[JNJchev77]

Originally Posted by sweetnlow67

cut a hold in your lower control arm, put a piece of pipe in it and recess your bag and you will lay frame without spending a bunch of money

uhhh, no you won't...

[Hottrucks]

Uhhh ...what he said...with a 2" drop spindle you will lay X but not frame....

look at m build if you have any questions...

one thing that I see with ANYONE who wants it to lay out....which brings me to the questions..what are you going to do with the hood hindges..the inner fender support..oh yea and the heater box..... I for one drive my truck and love the fact that if it rains I can de fog te winshield....oh yea cant drive it in the rain since your wheel wells are along side your garage....

OK RANT OVER

[Ghostwhite]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

Uhhh ...what he said...with a 2" drop spindle you will lay X but not frame....

look at m build if you have any questions...

one thing that I see with ANYONE who wants it to lay out....which brings me to the questions..what are you going to do with the hood hindges..the inner fender support..oh yea and the heater box..... I for one drive my truck and love the fact that if it rains I can de fog te winshield....oh yea cant drive it in the rain since your wheel wells are along side your garage....

OK RANT OVER

What he said too

good additional concerns as well

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

What he said too

good additional concerns as well

Sorry fella's, but your 'argument' that one cannot drive a vehicle in the rain w/o inner fenders is in-valid. It can & has been done by many; I did it for multiple years w/a daily driver. It was a PITA to keep clean.... but do-able.

[jmedero]

Not to mention when you "lay out" you end up with a list of stuff to raise, replace, and figure out. Those "expensive" parts take care of alot of yhe issues. That's why they are in demand.

[dv8customs]

Dropmember or not there is still a lot of stuff you have to do if you want to lay full frame or lower.

[GVizzle]

Originally Posted by dv8customs

Dropmember or not there is still a lot of stuff you have to do if you want to lay full frame or lower.

Its true. You have to pay to lay......in one way or another. Might as well DO IT right the first time.

[Ghostwhite]

Idk where this is going

My intention is to daily my truck all year round, including in the harsh North Dakota winter. I know I am gonna have days I absolutely can't drive it but if a car can get around I should be able to and its not my only vehicle anyways. I am gonna try and build this right the first time around. I have the same questions.

What is necessary for fender bracing to maintain structural integrity? I will eventually be making some inner tubs but so its not on the top of my list.

What is the general consensus on heater locations? I may end up going with a modified recirculating(in cab) heater to maximize tire clearance.

For anyone curious about Hood hinges Porterbuilt has a good product for the 60-66, Hinges

[Hottrucks]

not sure about the 60/66 body but since the fender is supported by the rad support you can cut ALOT of it out without worry ....well except for the hood hindge thing.....

IMAO if your going to drive it everyday ( like me) I would recomend a set of drop spindles and either cupped lowers or a set of tubed ones...its going to get you low without spending a ton of $$ and its going to drive well...the only thing I'm woundering is what you plan to do out back??? ...I have a pipe 2.5" C notch and it gets my tires against the top of the wheel wells and the pumpkin agains the floor....like I have said all along is depends on what you want...I hate the fact that I tubbed it some times?? for one my slide in doesn't fit anymore??? LMAO...OH well???

[Ghostwhite]

Well I am doing a Dropmember front w/ 73-87 front arms and 2.5" drop spindles. Out back is PB notch, PB trailing arm crossmember, PB trailing arms and 5 lug rear-end. I got my funding figured out(stuck in Iraq saving money) so its just a matter of the little stuff.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

Well I am doing a Dropmember front w/ 73-87 front arms and 2.5" drop spindles. Out back is PB notch, PB trailing arm crossmember, PB trailing arms and 5 lug rear-end. I got my funding figured out(stuck in Iraq saving money) so its just a matter of the little stuff.

Thanks for your service! Smart investment on the suspension parts.

[Hottrucks]

sounds like you have a good plan.......

the only issue I can see is your wheel wells..if I remember my 65 the heater box is pretty high on the fire wall so that shouldn't be an issue....just the wheel wells and like I said a set of 13" trailer fenders can be mod. pretty easy and cheap with a clean look...

and be safe there....

Jeff