Disc upgrade: Which ball joint would you separate?

[ldgn63]

I do not want to replace the crossmember…

If I wanted to use control arms and spindles from an ’80 on my ’67, is the upper or lower ball joint the preferred split point to get the parts off and back on? All of the joints are good and I don’t want to replace them.
( I am assuming that you have to separate at least one of the ball joints unless you cut the spring out which wouldn’t help re-assembly)

Also, can I use the crosslink from the ’80 so I don’t have to buy tie rod adapter sleeves?

i have read the FAQ's but they dont seem to answer this.
thanks!

[ChevLoRay]

The lower control arm needs to be supported. If not, when you separate either ball joint, it will drop and the spring will fly out, probably in your direction.

Honestly, what difference does it make? I've seen people do the top one first, more often. However, it may be because the top one wore out before the bottom one did.

[cstm68]

doesnt matter what ball joint you split, it wont hurt then i just smack the spindal a few times ware the ball joint goes in and it always brakes loose and never damages anything. so in yer case i would just split bolth so yet not fumbling a control arm with a spindal on it when trying to instsall them.

[cparman]

Not sure, but if you are going to use the spindle from the 80 you will need to separate both. Jack up your truck, and put two jack stands under each lower control arm, and carefully let the truck down on the jack stands. shake the truck to be sure that the truck is safe. remove the existing spindles. separating both ball joints, remove the old spindles. IMO you will need to replace both upper and lower ball joints. install new spindles and move forward. With the weight of the truck on the jack stands you will not have an issue with the spring coming out after you Think this is a crossmember replacement to do it right though.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by ldgn63

( I am assuming that you have to separate at least one of the ball joints unless you cut the spring out which wouldn’t help re-assembly)

Also, can I use the crosslink from the ’80 so I don’t have to buy tie rod adapter sleeves?

Actually, you don't have to separate any ball joints. I HATE to separate ball joints unless they need replacing. Put jackstands under the frame and a floor jack under the lower control arm near the shaft. Now unbolt the shaft from the crossmember and carefully let it down with the jack until the spring is free.

Yes, you can swap the center link and keep the stock tie rods.

Ray

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by raycow

Actually, you don't have to separate any ball joints. I HATE to separate ball joints unless they need replacing. Put jackstands under the frame and a floor jack under the lower control arm near the shaft. Now unbolt the shaft from the crossmember and carefully let it down with the jack until the spring is free.

Yes, you can swap the center link and keep the stock tie rods.

Ray

this is the way I used to do them too. I hate the ball joint seperation process. I have heard of guys using an air hammer too, never tried it but heard it works good.

[ldgn63]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

this is the way I used to do them too. I hate the ball joint seperation process. I have heard of guys using an air hammer too, never tried it but heard it works good.

i was actually gonna ask about this at first but then i figured it was too good to be true... but i'm glad to hear it can be done! i may just go this route!

[ChevLoRay]

Oh, one more thing....don't remove the nuts until the spindle is loosened. Just loosen the castellated nuts and knock the spindle loose, next.

[ldgn63]

thanks all