Mustang II rack to GM intermediate shaft issues

[Woodbutcher]

So I'm at the point with the build on my '56 Chevy shortbox that I am tackling the steering. I have a Mustang II rack mounted on a TCI cross-member and a Buick Regal tilt column in the cab. I picked up a new looking collapsable intermediate shaft from the auto-recyclers today for $20 in perfect shape, out of an '02 Astrovan. Damn, it looks perfect - small and sleek like a more expensive Borgeson joint system without the price, and, not as big and cumbersome as some stock systems like the S-10 shaft, etc. It has no rag joint, but has two universal joints. One end slides onto the end of the column no problem, being a GM product I had hoped as much, but as I figured the other end does not match. The mustang rack does have the 3/4" splined shaft and the intermediate shaft does have a 3/4" splined hole, but either the number of splines is different, or the flat side of the shaft isn't the right size/shape, etc . Everything else looks great and I'm 90% of the way there. Any ideas out there??

BTW, the truck will instantly fail the pre-registration inspection here in BC if we do ANY welding on steering components, so that is out of the question.

[lolife99]

I would say just build it out of Borgeson joints and be done.
Use their "dd" shaft and that should satisfy the "no welding" rule.
The Borgeson stuff is pricey,... but well worth the quality of the product,... and safety of all involved.

[dv8customs]

CPP carries the joints as well and they are much cheaper

[Scottshotrods]

On your power rack the joint size is a 3/4x36x3/4 and for the joints as direct bolt -in.
Several joints in stock and can ship out same day.The forum price on our joints are
$60.00 and they are polished s.s as well.If you would like to get a price you can p/m
me or e-mail me at justin@scottshotrods.com
Justin

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Scottshotrods

On your power rack the joint size is a 3/4x36x3/4 and for the joints as direct bolt -in.
Several joints in stock and can ship out same day.The forum price on our joints are
$60.00 and they are polished s.s as well.If you would like to get a price you can p/m
me or e-mail me at justin@scottshotrods.com
Justin

Great reply Justin!
I would love to see more Board Vendors on here, directly answering questions,... and promoting their products.
The fact that you have the product "in stock" and and will ship out the "same day",... would get my business!
Thanks again.

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks for the responses. All good relavent feedback and worth considering. Yesterday I spend a couple of hours doing a little more research, on the internet to places like Borgeson, CCP, Scotts, Langley Old Car Center, etc. Even talked to a couple of tech lines. The Astrovan u-joint has 3/4-30 splines, but no one makes any kind of coupler with 3/4-36 female on one end to go on the rack and 3/4-30 male to slide into the u-joint on the intermediate shaft. The closest/best I have been able to come up with so far is a Borgeson coupler with 3/4-36 female at one end and 3/4-smooth female at the other end. I suppose I could cut off the input shaft from the Astrovan box use it to make my own adapter, but seems like a waste of a box to do so. Also, I have learned that we cannot weld any steering components in BC - automatic fail during an inspection, so pinning it together will have to suffice. I have 18" between column and rack and the shafts length is 15"-21", so whatever I add has to be small else I will completely lose the collapseability of the shaft.

I think when you see the shaft, you can see why a guy might like to use it. It's a little different than what you usually see and looks relatively stock.


A buddy thinks I am banging my head against the wall and will end up going the borgeson route, but I just like the look of the GM shaft, like the collapsable safety factor, dont want the added expense of the Borgeson parts. He may be right. In the end that just may be where I end up, but I if I do, I will take the scenic route to get there. Any other attractions or viewpoints to go to on my way there??

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

Seems like a lot of effort to save 150 bucks. Jay

[bobinbc]

Originally Posted by Big Port Jimmy 6

Seems like a lot of effort to save 150 bucks. Jay

The truck in my avatar cost me approx $6000 to build, and no, I'm not missing a zero. I didn't scrimp on safety (complete brand new brake system, remanufactured steering box, all front end componenents new, etc) paint (Urethane with tri-coat candy flames with an interwoven lace mask and 3 different metallic bases), tires(brand new) or compromise on what I wanted, but I DID save money whenever I could by doing things myself (pretty much everything) and using "recycled" parts and finding creative solutions anywhere possible. I'm "old school" and that's what I call hotrodding, I think Woodbutcher's attempting to do the same thing. Not all of us are on big budgets and every $150 we can save in one place can be used better somewhere else. For example, the exhaust sytem on my current build is made from 100% mandrel bent aluminzed tubing, with ceramic coated headers and the latest Thrush 2 chamber mufflers (similar to Flowmasters) and 3" resonators flowing into polished stainless megaphone tips, all hand welded full length out to the back bumper - total cost $150, owner fabbed. Money saved to spend on other parts for the truck - about$300 , satisfaction of doing it myself - priceless. Oh yeah, and my steering shaft is gonna be cheap too...

[raycow]

The next time you are at the salvage yard, look at some Ford products and see if you can use parts off of those to make a hybrid shaft.

Ray