Decided to go somewhat original. Need help!

[ofnaman]

After having my truck for 3 years now I am FINALLY getting started on it. It's a '54 5 window 1/2 ton shortbed. It came with half of an engine sitting in it (not bolted in as I found out today after towing it around for 3 years), the trans was in the bed and the rear end is half apart (but all there). I am a GM technician, but this truck is otherworldly to me (mostly the way the drivetrain goes together). I used to have a '66 c10 with a 250, but this truck is alot different and I could definately use some input. I decided to try to find an engine that would basically bolt in so I could start driving it. I'll worry about mod's later. Believe it or not I was able to find two engine/trans combo's on my local craigslist. One was a '53 216 with a 4 speed, and the other was a '55 235 with a 3 speed. I decided to go with the 216 because it came complete from the generator to the tailshaft of the trans and this truck had a 4 speed originally. One of my questions is how exactly does the transmission mount up to the torque tube? After eye balling it I think I see how, but I could use some pointers/pictures. I was also told I can modify a 250 hei distributor to work in the 216. Have any of you done that? I could also use some pic's of how the engine mounts up. I can see how the front mount works, but the bellhousing ones are not there and I have no idea what I need for them. I plan on keeping the truck mostly stock right now other than converting it to 12 volt and probably adding a/c.

[OrrieG]

Stovebolt.com has a tech article on modifying newer HEI for the 216-235 series.

[mr48chev]

Personally I would have gone with the 235 as it runs insert bearings rather than having the poured babbit bearings. The 216 is fine if you are just going to take the truck to local shows and not plan on long road trips but the 235 would allow you to be more comfortable with getting out and going somewhere.
I'd find a factory service manual for that truck that will detail work on the driveshaft and other mechanical pieces. They are usually a lot better than aftermarket how to books that are around.

If you decide to go with an open driveshaft and later axle the 55,56,57 1/2 ton pickup axles fit pretty well with stock style wheels and you can run a later style full syncro transmission in the process. We built a 53 for a friend of mine that runs the whole drive train out of a 56 pickup. Engine, trans and rear end. It appears to be totally stock from the outside but they did a 5000 mile road trip with it with a custom built camper on the back just after it was finished.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by ofnaman

One of my questions is how exactly does the transmission mount up to the torque tube? After eye balling it I think I see how, but I could use some pointers/pictures.

I can see how the front mount works, but the bellhousing ones are not there and I have no idea what I need for them.

I couldn't find a pic of the 54 bellhousing mounts. This pic is from a 54 manual, but it shows the 53 mount.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...4ctsm0687.html

Unfortunately, the bellhousing mounts changed a lot between 53 and 54. If you still have the 54 bellhousing, use it and save yourself a lot of trouble. If you have only the 53 bell you can bend up a bracket from flat stock to bolt it to the 54 mounts. This would probably be easier than trying to adapt the 53 mounts to the 54 crossmember. Both types of mounts are still being reproed

As far as bolting up the torque tube, first you need to find out whch parts you are missing. You will need the U-joint, the ball housing and the ball housing collar. You will also need a gasket set for the ball housing. The gaskets are still being made by Fel-Pro and possibly others.

Since you have two transmssions, look at both of them to see if the U-joint front yoke is still bolted on. Most people don't remove them unless they need to take the transmission apart. A passenger car ball housing, collar and U-joint rear yoke will work, but the front yoke is 4 speed only.

I couldn't find any good pics of the truck torque tube and U-joint.
This pic shows the ball housing and collar assembled to a car transmission, but the truck ball housing and collar are identical.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...rans/7_014.HTM

This is a cross section of the ball housing assembled onto the torque tube. It is the same for car and 1/2 ton, but the U-joint in this pic is wrong.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...rts/05/340.HTM

Here is an exploded view of the car U-joint, and the 1/2 ton is almost identical.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...4rear/4_15.HTM


Ray

[ofnaman]

Thanks for the help so far guy's. As far as the hei distributor goes, I should have done more research. Summit actually sells an hei for this engine: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850042/

I may still pick up that 235 and check it out. Again, thanks for the help.

[ofnaman]

Anyone know where I can get a starter for the 216? I can't seem to find one anywhere. Thank you

[OrrieG]

napa

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...+50014+2014099

You will be amazed at the number of parts that are still available for these.

[ofnaman]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

napa

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...+50014+2014099

You will be amazed at the number of parts that are still available for these.

Wow, thank you. I looked everywhere except napa.

[Dan Bowles]

Get the 235. It will last much longer. You may have to drill some mounting holes in the timing chain cover to mount it up correctly. The cross members did change so make sure you have the bell housing fo the '54 as you can't use a pre-54 bell in a '54 truck unless you do as raycow states. It was changed due to the advent of the hydromatic trans.

[55dude]

here is some tech i wrote up on the hamb website to use a GM hei in a 235 engine, super easy and cheap$$$! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=189074

[vwjohnny]

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