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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mesquite, Tx
Posts: 396
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A arms
I think my lower a-arm bushings are worn out. I get an occasional shimmy in the front end. The tie rod ends and ball joints look ok. We put the truck up on a lift and tried to move the tires by hand and this was the only place with slop. Would this cause my shimmy. It's not severe or consistant, just annoying..
BTW has anyone out there replaced these? ![]() |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hammond, WI
Posts: 1,804
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i've replaced them. i'm not sure if that would cause the shimmy or not. if you want to go the easiest route, then get the polyurethane bushings. they use the factory casings. if you get the rubber ones, like the factory, then you'll have to push out the casings as well. difficult, but can be done.
__________________
Mike 2001 Dakota R/T - Silver CC - 1 of 1671 •360 w/46RE •392 limited slip 1972 Chevy Suburban - Turquoise/Black 1969 Chevy C/10 - Blue LWB •350 w/ 700R4 •3.73 posi •PS PB A/C - SOLD ![]() Using your turn signal is not "giving information to the enemy" 67-72 FAQ |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Frisco, Tx, USA
Posts: 606
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Your lower a-arm bushings are going to be steel. IF you can make them move then they are definately worn out. I say if because you have several hundred pounds of pressure on the control arm from the spring. Best way to know for sure is the remove the lower ball joint and take the pressure off the spring. Then, if it is worn, it will be sloppy and easily seen.
Something to consider, but not the safest approach, would be to put blocks in front of and behind the tire and have someone slowly move the truck back and forth and watch for movement. Another idea might be to take a floor jack and place it on the a-arm between the spring pocket and the bushing and see if any play occurs. Don't try to lift the truck here, just see if the control arm moves at the bushing. Any visible play means it needs to be replaced. I've replaced these before, and it's not a big deal. Rates up there with changing lower ball joints. Catch is having a cheater pipe and large socket to break them loose. You buy the entire bar which gets you both bushings (front and back) per side.
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http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. Last edited by Blue68; 03-03-2003 at 01:20 PM. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hammond, WI
Posts: 1,804
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i guess i should have said that mine was from a newer style a-arms. i appologize for the non-specifics.
__________________
Mike 2001 Dakota R/T - Silver CC - 1 of 1671 •360 w/46RE •392 limited slip 1972 Chevy Suburban - Turquoise/Black 1969 Chevy C/10 - Blue LWB •350 w/ 700R4 •3.73 posi •PS PB A/C - SOLD ![]() Using your turn signal is not "giving information to the enemy" 67-72 FAQ |
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