Good deals on bags???

[RACING29]

Any body have any bags they wanna sell cheap? Also WHat would it take to get it to lay frame? I already have a 4/6 early classics drop kit on it. Thanks DeWayne

[orange72]

it would take a good notch in the rear to get close but these old trucks wont exactly lay frame. the front crossmember sits to low.

[RACING29]

How big would I have to notch the front crossmember? THANKS

[orange72]

on that im not sure. theres some guys around the board that are doing or are in the process of doing a crossmember notch. i recently got my swb base frame back from the ag shop that i did a 3 inch body drop on and about 6 or 7 inch c-notch on and the frame gets around 2 to 3 inches off the ground with the crossmeber layed out. with the body drop though it will lay rockers.

[RACING29]

TTT

[phantom dually]

I recently installed a lowered crossmember and it brings the member up 2" into the frame rails. There is alot involved in doing this as the member must be clearenced at the front to clear all steering parts as well as the top to notch it. I bought my member from turner fabrication in California. He has alot of truck stuff 67-up. Give him a call at 909-926-1729 or go to www.turnerrodsntrucks.com Ask for Bill. Tell him James from Kentucky sent you.

[70 Jimmy]

I believe the turner crossmember is a 1.25" notch. Unless your using a different pitman arm (which may be), it wouldn't clear the A arm. I notched my crossmember 1.5" and I'm having trouble with the inner ball joint not clearing the lower A arm because it's closer to the pitman arm. I need to raise the steering box .25". If I had it to do over again, I'd notch only 1.25"

[phantom dually]

Hey 70 Jimmy can you post some pics of your problem here so I can see if I will encounter these as well?? Thanks

[phantom dually]

By the way you are right the crossmember is 1.25" instead of my wrong idea of 2". I dont know where I got that from.

[70 Jimmy]

I won't be able to post pics soon but I'll try and explain in detail here. If I remember right you are going with tubular a arms, right?

Anyway. the inner tierod ball joint hits the lower A arm where it sticks out from the crossmember. There is a large hex cap bushing, called the "end nut-shaft" in the LMC catalog and it hits just above that. I'll try to post pics when I get out to the shop next weekend.

I think that you have a chance of not hitting it for 2 reasons. One there is a great amount of variation in these parts from the factory and the other is the fact that you are using tubular A arms.

It's not that big of a deal to move the steering box up if you have some fab experience. My plan is to slot the holes. On the upper foward bolt hole, that won't leave me enough room to put a hex head bolt below the upper frame (top of the "C") so I'm going to raise that part of the frame up. Kinda like a C notch but only the upper part of the frame rail. I don't think all of this will cause any other issues to come up but that's what makes it fun.

[phantom dually]

Would it be easier to make a spacer plate to go in between the frame and the member to get you where you want to be??

[phantom dually]

Yes I am going with tube a arms.

[70 Jimmy]

Yup, but I'm not going to give up that easy. Call me hard headed but I can make this work. Besides, it's about the trip, not the destination. Oh, and spacer = rust.

[phantom dually]

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

[lost wages]

you can use a steering box from a van and it will clear, they sit back further.

[70 Jimmy]

Raised the upper frame rail up about .5". I'll finish cleaning up the slotted holes and see if it works. I should have some pics tomorrow.