Solid motor mounts for my 82 C10?

[team39763]

I'm looking for solid motor mounts for my truck, but when I called around I was told that nobody made any for my truck. I figured my truck could use whatever was used in the g-body cars of the era...anybody know? Or is there a easier way to make my own solid mounts? A few of the locals are telling me that I need to stick with rubber mounts because my motor needs that movement. Either way, I want to install solid motor mounts whether they're store bought or homemade. Any advice? Motor plates are out of the question for now.

[Marv D]

Why is a front motor plate and mid plate out of the question??? if you have so much HP that your ripping stock motor mounts apart, you are tugging and pulling at the side of the block, that alone should be enough reason to move to mid/front plate. Where you have a nice flat "C" rail to attach to a front plate is a snap! (mid plate,, ummmm a little tougher!)

http://www.mousemotor.com//images/662010/66_5_23a.JPG

[kwhite4]

If your really stuck on doing this, then you might look at cpp tubular mounts,
I used these and standard chevy camaro solid motor mounts from Moroso.
1000 hp and its still holding but after I do a freshen up I plan on going to a plate setup so I can move things around a little...
hope this helps
Keith

[Captainfab]

Those are made....I've seen them, but I can't remember where at the moment. I'll let you know when I think of it.

I have made these in the past myself. They're really pretty simple. You just need a base plate with the same hole pattern as the original mounts. Then a piece of DOM tube, and a couple pieces of flat bar laid like this ^ up to the tube. Then weld it all together. Just use a good stock mount for measurements, or to build a jig from.

[shortbed70]

I agree with captainfab. I have seen them just cant remember where. I have also made them fairly easy to do. My buddy has a 76 he races that I built them for and have had no problems. For high HP apps though go with a front plate.

[cableguy0]

Solid mounts when used in the wrong application are usually more trouble than they are worth. Have you tried a good set of poly mounts? How much power are we talking about here?

[team39763]

Marv, I was planning to do the motor plate when I do the new motor next year and set the motor back about 4 inches. But then I read a post you made about needing a cage if I modified the firewall/floor... to comply with NHRA rules. At that point I kinda just decided I'd leave the motor where it's at and throw on some solid mounts. Now after rethinking it, maybe I should do the motor plate/midplate now. No, I don't have that much horsepower, I just think it would stiffen things up some and give me room for some good headers.
I'll give those cpp mounts a look. Thanks.

CaptainFab, that sounds like a good idea, I may try that before I install the motor plate.

[team39763]

I'm working with about 400-425(estimated...maybe less). This is a race-only truck and I'm hoping to hit low 11's or high 10's. I looked at poly mounts, but I don't wan't to buy them and be disappointed if they move just like the rubber ones.

[cableguy0]

Theres always going to be movement. whether its twist in the frame itself or the mounts or where ever. The engine will twist and pull on the drivers side anytime theres a load placed on it. I dont mean to bust your bubble but you will be lucky to get a heavy truck into the 12's with 400hp. The little bit of give thats in the mounts stops other things from breaking.

[team39763]

I already clicked off an 11.8 on a conservative tune, on an up-hill/unprepped airstrip with crappy DA. Next month I'm headed to a real track to see if I can get that high 10sec slip. I've already taken another 100+ lbs off it since the 11.8 run, I've upped the tune, I upgraded the carb, I now have full throttle(previous carb only went to 3/4), my caltracs are actually adjusted this time(not hanging loose)...I'd say I have a good chance of making it close to the 10's.
I just figured any other little advantage would help me shave off some ET. I really want that 10sec slip. I've been told a bunch of times that I won't run remotely close to 10's with what I got, but I think I can.
What else could break? I have an ultrabell, aftermarket rear gears and Eaton LSD, solid bushings in the suspension and in a few weeks I'll have a 8pt rollbar. I'm open to suggestions.

[ripdog28]

Team, what rear end/gears/tires? 400hp in 10 may happen with a trick gear set up, or a really light vehicle. Doubtful with our trucks stock body and 400hp. I am over 550hp/tq with a BBC and im running the CPP tubulars with poly bushings. No problems and i have 2in headers. No clearence issues. I dont see any need for solid mounts. You want some play because if none, youll crack the block after a while.

[team39763]

I'm running a 10bolt with 4.56 gears and 29" slicks.

I know you guys are more experienced than me. I'm not trying to "out-think" anybody or be a smart ass here, so please don't take it that way. Isn't excessive engine movement just wasted energy? My headers comes close to hitting the frame/pad mount when the motor torques over also. Solid mounts would stop that.

[team39763]

Ok, I decided to go ahead and do the front and mid plates at the same time we're installing the rollbar next month. Thanks for the advice guys.

[team39763]

Will this work for a front motor plate? It's 1/4" thick.
http://www.swracecars.com/store/Fron...48=20-213.aspx

[Marv D]

Originally Posted by team39763

Will this work for a front motor plate? It's 1/4" thick.
http://www.swracecars.com/store/Fron...48=20-213.aspx

No, not unless you have a LS-1 motor :-) If you do, then yes.

Assuming it's a SBC, Here is the sbc mid plate kit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4031/

and the front motor plate (trim to fit)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4004/

Be sure to use a washer between the torque converter and flex-plate to compensage for the mid-plate thickness. Once you eliminate the stock side mounts, you need to secure the motor from lateral movement (and breaking your mid / motor plates, bell housing, driveshaft, etc...) A short piece of 1/2" tubing with a couple of rod ends attached between the old bottom side motor mount bolt and a forward frame crossmember will do the trick.

[68 C-10 KID]

I don't if this is a common practice. I put 1 Moroso solid on the driver side and the passenger rubber.
On my c-10 I went with the poly's. They are rigid. Almost like I have solids on both sides.

[entourageguy]

I've seen solid mounts listed on ebay ......

[team39763]

Yes, it's an LS motor. I keep forgetting to update my sig. Thanks for the links Marv. I just bought that midplate lastnight. But the motor plate/cage is gonna have to wait until March...the guy who welds for me took a job out of state. So i bought some fabbed solid mounts from him just to make it to the next race in Feb(no more than 5 passes). My current rubber mounts have my oilpan hanging below the crossmember and my headers touching the LCA and frame when it twists.