Project Pro Touring "Ole Blue"

[Mechanic77]

Well...I guess I should start a build thread. I'm working on my '64 C10 that I'm building as a pro touring style truck. It actually started out as a C20 long bed step side, but when I'm done, it will be a 1/2 ton medium* bed fleet side.
*Instead of the typical 12"/8" chop, I'm going to do a 9"/6" chop

Here it is at it sits now:


I'll start posting pictures of what I have done already and explain it as I go

[Mechanic77]

Here is where I started after tear down:

[shortbed70]

Hey another kansas guy...Nice rig cant wait to see it come along,but one question? Are you talking choping the top?

[Mechanic77]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Hey another kansas guy...Nice rig cant wait to see it come along,but one question? Are you talking choping the top?

Actually no, I was referring to the 12" removed out of the front and 8" removed out of the rear of a long bed to make it a short bed I've always thought that the short beds were just a little too short, so I'm goint to go 9" in the front and 6" in the rear to make it proportional and hopefully look right to me

[shortbed70]

OK I was wondering... What do you do for a living? Nice arms...

[Mechanic77]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

OK I was wondering... What do you do for a living? Nice arms...

Well...I'm just a mechanic (over 10 years already ) but I love doing fab work in the evenings and I love the challenge as well. I'm excited about working on this project because it was actually my first car, so I've got a bit of a sentimental attachment to her too

[Mechanic77]

Here's some pictures of the work on the front suspension

One of the lower arms I fabbed up (I need to modify the ball joint plate and angle it up to keep the ball joint from binding )

One of the upper arms jigged up, ready to weld

Mounting the steering box

Front suspension mocked up

I built the arms with the ball joints moved forward to center the front wheels in the wheel wells and I also set it up with increased caster (6* base) with the option to go +/-2* besides the normal adjustment available. I'm running 2.5" drop spindles with the 1.25" thick rotors and Wilwood D52 calipers (thanks Jon ) The way I mounted the steering box it actually raises the center drag link approximately 0.75" from the stock '84 front geometry, so I'm hoping I can juggle thing around to reduce bumpsteer as much as possible.

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by Mechanic77

Here's some pictures of the work on the front suspension

One of the lower arms I fabbed up (I need to modify the ball joint plate and angle it up to keep the ball joint from binding )
Attachment 684964
One of the upper arms jigged up, ready to weld
Attachment 684965
Mounting the steering box
Attachment 684967
Front suspension mocked up
Attachment 684968
I built the arms with the ball joints moved forward to center the front wheels in the wheel wells and I also set it up with increased caster (6* base) with the option to go +/-2* besides the normal adjustment available. I'm running 2.5" drop spindles with the 1.25" thick rotors and Wilwood D52 calipers (thanks Jon ) The way I mounted the steering box it actually raises the center drag link approximately 0.75" from the stock '84 front geometry, so I'm hoping I can juggle thing around to reduce bumpsteer as much as possible.

what size pipe did you use on the frame for the gear? what is your take on this way VS. the kit?

[Mechanic77]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

what size pipe did you use on the frame for the gear? what is your take on this way VS. the kit?

I honestly don't remember.....it takes two different diameters, a larger one for the top part and a smaller one for the lower (to allow for the mounting holes). As far as my take.....I would suggest the kit, it's waaayyy easier
I did mine that way for a couple of reasons....one, I'm a cheap bastard that would rather make something than pay for it .....and two, I didn't like the idea of the steering box being pushed out because it would make the pitman arm and the idler arm not run parallel (probably doesn't make 2 cents worth of difference, but it would bug the crap out of me)

[lolife99]

Subscribing to this one!!!

[shortbed70]

You must have access to some nice tools...Those arms are pretty nice pieces. I used to be a mechanic also but got tired of leaning over working on things so started welding and never looked back. Ill be watching this one.

[68GMCCustom]

Nice work! I have a question tho...did you weld that steering box to the frame?

[shortbed70]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

Nice work! I have a question tho...did you weld that steering box to the frame?

Looks like a pipe notch to me. I thought that too when I first seen it.

[Mechanic77]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Looks like a pipe notch to me. I thought that too when I first seen it.

Beat me to it I'm a slow typer.

[Mechanic77]

A little more information:

The tires are 275/40ZR17 for the front and 315/35ZR17 for the rear. I'm planning on buying Billet Specialties Street Lites in 17x9.5 and 17x11 to go with those. To go with the Wilwood front brake calipers, I also bought a set for the rear too. I also bought a set of brake rotors (Astro van fronts, thanks Captainfab for the idea )

What the heck, here's a picture of the rearend with brakes on it and a teaser of my watts link setup

[protrash64]

Nice work mech77!! Love the mock-up shot; truck looks good and cant wait to see more.

[Mechanic77]

Thanks for all the comments, and no, I didn't weld the steering box to the frame. I used the lower rear bolt hole on the frame and figured the angle the box needed to be and made new holes for the power box. What you see in the picture is the backside of the notch I made to clear the box so I could mount it straight on the frame. I did that instead of buying an adapter plate because I wanted the idler arm and the pitman arm to be parallel when going straight.

As far as having nice equipment goes, I have the basic welder/grinders/etc, but I do have an awesome buddy that works at a metal fabrication shop building industrial equipment. All I have to do is draw something up (measured drawing) and tell him how thick of plate I want and he cuts it on there cnc plasma cutting table . It sure helps make things look so much more professional

I'll post up some pictures of the rear suspension tomorrow, and you can see some more of his work too.

[Mechanic77]

Thanks, I can't wait to get the cab off so I can cut the frame down and mock it up at the correct wheelbase

[Mechanic77]

Here is some pictures of the rear suspension almost done


And some pictures of the trailiing arm brackets that I'm going to mount up

I'm not going to mount those brackets up until I get the cab off because I'm going to flip the crossmember to gain some driveshaft clearance when it's aired out

[Mechanic77]

Here's some better pictures of my watts link setup


I'm thinking I might swap the 1/2" rod ends and links out for some 5/8" ones and I haven't machined the center pivot for the bearings yet.

[SCOTI]

I like it!

[PBFAB.COM]

Finally... somebody building a watt's link like they are SUPPOSED to be set-up!!!!!

Looks like a cool project!

[Pop's C-10]

Killer fab

[shrunken66stroker]

You've got the sickness as well. I'll keep an eye on this one.

[Mechanic77]

Yeah, I think it's contagious