Hot wiring

[79gmcc15]

What would cause the wiring for the inside light to get hot to touch? It is hot from the light to past behind the seat. that was as far as my investigating went for today. un-plugged battery just for safety.

[79gmcc15]

Oh, just remembered. The wiring was getting hot all the time. Key off, doors closed and light switch on dash forward and all the way right. Any ideas? The light has never worked since Ive had it. I have new door switches that I am planning on replacing weather permitting. I am wondering if the light switch in the dash is shot and shorting the wiring? I am not getting 12'v to light. Just getting really hot. I have a canopy on so I can not test the cargo light.

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by 79gmcc15

Oh, just remembered. The wiring was getting hot all the time. Key off, doors closed and light switch on dash forward and all the way right. Any ideas? The light has never worked since Ive had it. I have new door switches that I am planning on replacing weather permitting. I am wondering if the light switch in the dash is shot and shorting the wiring? I am not getting 12'v to light. Just getting really hot. I have a canopy on so I can not test the cargo light.

Check all the wiring for splits,cracks or rubbed through the coating could be shorting out.

[cableguy0]

A short in the system. Its either a bad ground or broken wire somewhere. UNhooking the battery was a very good idea.

[lakeroadster]

I agree with the "Bad Ground" being the fault.

Run a temporary ground wire from the light housing (assuming it is steel) to the battery negative terminal and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, it is a ground problem.

It's amazing the wierd stuff that happens when a circuit isn't properly grounded.

[79gmcc15]

Ok, so I have been poking around with this thing for a couple days. And my gut feeling is that the socket it's self is shorting out. The connection in socket is loose * I can twist the wire around* and is warn out. It also gets really hot at the plug then it gets cooler the further away you go. It is almost warm by the time you get by the hood lever.

So this is what I have done so far:

I took the switch by seat belt off to find the plugs toast. Fixed that.

After fixing that I decided to ground the light plug to somewhere else. That did not go well, it fried my wiring. Also I have come to the conclusion that it is the ground wire that is getting hot. Partly because the wiring at the pillar switch is cold *the + wire*.

Then I changed both of the door switches. The driver door was all rusted out. After install, I noticed that fitment sucked, but I think I have it stable now. In the process of testing, the switch did shock me and blew the horn fuse. *I thought it was just the horn, now I know why my horn fuse was blowing all this time. I thought it was the relay. Now probably due to light problem.*

So I cut off the socket and tested the voltage. I am getting a steady 12 v at the wires using the light switch and opening doors.

Then I hooked up the light socket temperately with wire nuts. And took the test light and clamped it on the outside of the socket and grounded the the probe end to the cab. It was always lit, but it did dim when you turned on the light by switch on dash or by door.

For what its worth, the light socket is out of the housing right now during all the test. Though, I doubt that the housing provides anything more then housing the light. It is made out of plastic and not meant to be used as a ground.

Should I replace the light socket it's self? And what range of cars/trucks can I get this from? Is there some kind of over the counter fix? I would prefer new to avoid this again.

Thanks!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 79gmcc15

After fixing that I decided to ground the light plug to somewhere else. That did not go well, it fried my wiring. Also I have come to the conclusion that it is the ground wire that is getting hot. Partly because the wiring at the pillar switch is cold *the + wire*.

Thanks!

The door-jamb switches should be the ground side of the circuit *the - wires*. If the jamb switch is on the +12v side of the circuit it will blow fuses and melt wires as you have discovered.

I made a quick diagram of how the dome light circuit should be wired. Switch states are with the doors closed and headlight dome switch off.

[79gmcc15]

Thank you Hatzie!

I actually got everything working good! It was the bulb socket that was grounding out and shorting. There is no over the counter replacement. But when I went to a Old School NAPA, the guy behind the counter was able to hull out the socket and replaced the contacts with a new two wire two contact assembly. And now everything works like a charm! open doors, light! Turn on the switch, light! And most importantly, it is not frying my line! One problem down! Next is the cigarette lighter!

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by 79gmcc15

I actually got everything working good! One problem down! Next is the cigarette lighter!

Not fixing the cigarette lighter may save your life?

[ChevyC102007]

Still good to have one though LOL.

[79gmcc15]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Not fixing the cigarette lighter may save your life?

Yeah, no kidding right? I did want to fix the cigarette lighter first. Because my radio went out on me, so I use my cell and Pandora for tunes. Lol not only did I fix my light but I figured out why the fuse for the horn*because of the light* was blowing. It's been like this for 7 years.
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