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02-27-2011, 11:43 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Libby, MT
Posts: 163
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Heater Problems
This winter has been a cold one in Montana... and all winter I've dealt with a wimpy heater. At the end of fall, my blower motor went out, so I replaced that, but now it seems like I have no heat. When I put the switch on "low" it gets fairly hot by the floor, but when it is on high it basically blows cold air.
My first thought was that the blower motor is blowing the air past the heater core too fast, and as a result the air doesn't have time to heat up. What should I do? Should I replace the heater core with a new one and see if that will put more heat through? Thanks for reading! Another thought was the core could be plugged or resisting flow somehow. Thanks in advance!
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Rich My first truck!! 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton Camper Special and a 1985 GMC body. Has a 350, 4 BBL Edelbrock, with a Turbo 350, and NP205 T-case. |
02-27-2011, 03:03 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,189
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Re: Heater Problems
I like the simple approach. Get the engine good an hot, then hold the heater hoses - both to and from the heater. Are the hoses warm to hot? If yes, then the thermostat is opening and allowing heat to go to the heater. Next, pull back the carpet under the passenger side floor - is it wet and/or showing signs of previous leaking? If yes, then your heater core is leaking, or (possibly) you have leaking clamps/hoses on the other side of the firewall - so check for leaks around the heater hoses. If you need a new heater core get a copper one, not an aluminum one.
If the heater core is OK, then you may have a blend door that is not functioning properly. This will likely require removal of the glove box and some ductwork - a bit of a hassle if you have A/C. You should be able to see the cable operate the blend door when you move the knob on the dash. No movement indicates disconnected/broken lever or cable. You can report back when you get to this point because others have more info on these repairs and where to get parts if you need them. Good Luck. |
02-27-2011, 04:01 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Niagara, Ontario
Posts: 87
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Re: Heater Problems
The new blower motor may move more CFMs of air than the one that died. If the aforementioned hose test passes(it'll tell you if the core is plugged) and the flap that directs airflow between "HEAT" and "VENT" positions still functions properly(AND seals properly), it may very well be that the new motor is moving more air and some of it is just passing around the the core.
If you think this may be the case then you will need to make sure that any space immediately surrounding the heater core is properly sealed so that the air MUST pass through the fins of the core. Adhesive backed foam weatherstripping will do the job of filling any gaps. If the heater core is broken, then I agree, find a copper replacement if you can over an aluminum one, the aluminum ones are touchy to install because they're so soft.
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87 GMC V15 in profile photo sold 2013 99 Chev Silverado 2500 5.3 reg cab long bed Last edited by sandorjoben; 02-27-2011 at 04:03 PM. |
02-28-2011, 01:56 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Libby, MT
Posts: 163
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Re: Heater Problems
The flaps are functioning good and are sealed good.... It must be air passing around the core instad of through it like you said. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see if I can seal it. The hoses do get warm... So it must be working right. Like I said, on low it blows very warm air. if it would blow that warm of air, but on the speed of "high" I would be extremely satisfied. I love my truck and would love to be warm instead of froze. Montana winters are harsh!! (Gotta love it here though!).
Thanks for all your help!!! Do you possibly have any pictures of where to seal it? Thanks!!!!! Posted via Mobile Device
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Rich My first truck!! 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton Camper Special and a 1985 GMC body. Has a 350, 4 BBL Edelbrock, with a Turbo 350, and NP205 T-case. |
02-28-2011, 10:01 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,189
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Re: Heater Problems
No sign of leaks under the carpet or around the hoses? Coolant level is OK?
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02-28-2011, 10:07 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Libby, MT
Posts: 163
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Re: Heater Problems
Coolant level stays the same, under the carpet looks good, no leaky hoses, and I don't smell anything like antifreeze... Today I'm gunna warm it up and put the heater on high and hold the return hose that goes back to the intake manifold and make double sure it is also warm... Thanks for your help! Keep the suggestions coming!
Posted via Mobile Device
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Rich My first truck!! 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton Camper Special and a 1985 GMC body. Has a 350, 4 BBL Edelbrock, with a Turbo 350, and NP205 T-case. |
02-28-2011, 12:02 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,189
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Re: Heater Problems
Good idea. The hose to the heater should be about the same temperature as the engine coolant - like 160-180 degrees - almost too hot to hold on to. The hose from the heater back to the engine should be a little cooler when the heater is on. You really only have 3 things to go wrong:
1) Heater core leaking or clogged up 2) Thermostat not opening all the way 3) Door/cable in duct work not opening all the way You could have some odd things wrong, like duct work not connected properly, allowing air to not come out of the dash openings. Do you have A/C? If so, then you have some other gizmos like vacuum switches which could cause a problem. I think even no A/C trucks might have a vacuum switch somewhere. On A/C trucks, the ducts under the dash just barely fit together (made too short, IMHO). I had ducts not fitting together properly and all of the heat/cooling went down to the floor. I got the ducts back together and put HVAC sticky silver aluminum tape on all the joints to keep it together. |
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