|
02-28-2011, 11:01 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 165
|
Engine Machine Work
So I decided to rebuild my engine instead of buying a crate engine so I know what's really in it. I stripped the block down and called my local machine shop that has a great reputation. I asked how much it would be to have the old tired 350 machined. I was shocked when he told me about $300 for cleaning, boring, R&R cam bearing work, new freeze plugs, decking, and magnafluxing. Does that seem right? Also have I missed anything you guys can think of that is necessary in the machine work I should ask about? Keep in mind this is basic machine work not any assembly work. I tried to get him to stick the pistons and crank in but he's getting older and doesn't do that anymore. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
|
02-28-2011, 11:08 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Gardnerville Nv No Mo Cali!!
Posts: 869
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
It actually seems like a great price. Maybe because I live in Ca.
Did he give you a price for the heads? |
02-28-2011, 11:11 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: maine
Posts: 191
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Up here thats a great price. Typicaly I bring a bare, clean block. No frost plugs, no cam bearings, etc. All he does is dip the block, check and bore and it is right around $275. Then I have to buy and install cam bearings, frost plugs, etc.
|
02-28-2011, 11:26 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Burleson, Texas
Posts: 596
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
good deal!
the last one I built I spent $900 for the machine work (including heads)
__________________
Allengator Outta the Blue (my band - available for hire in the DFW area!) 1980 Chevy SWB Pickup (build thread) 1951 Chevy Sedan Delivery 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 2011 Harley Davidson Street Glide 2018 Silverado Z71 Crew Cab |
02-28-2011, 11:30 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upland Ca
Posts: 4,147
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
That's a great price.
__________________
1972 C10 SWB, Air, PS, PB, 350/350THM. Second owner. 1965 Corvette roadster, 44K miles, 327/365 SHP, 4 speed, side exhaust, knockoffs, teak, second owner (bought in 1970), Have ALL numbers matching components. My frame off restoration thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556703 |
02-28-2011, 11:36 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 165
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Well I bought new Edelbrock Heads so he's not doing the heads just the block. I still am a little shocked at the price almost seems like something isn't right or he was confused about it all lol! I never actually rebuilt one before so is there any work other than what I listed that is necessary? I'm thinking he is going to have to bore it over .030 so I am assuming I will need new piston heads.
|
02-28-2011, 12:18 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Oroville, CA
Posts: 4,827
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
While they have your block, why not get the mains align honed? Every sbc that Ive seen come through needed the mains done.
|
02-28-2011, 02:50 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Waukesha,WI
Posts: 25
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
|
02-28-2011, 12:22 PM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
iff bored you need new pistons and rings, then you need the rods checked and or rebuilt and the pistons installed on the rods, good time to get the crank done either polished or cut depending on the specs when measured
if you dont have a good detailed book on rebuilding now wood b a good time to invest in one, or check the shelves in your local library
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY Last edited by cdowns; 02-28-2011 at 12:32 PM. |
02-28-2011, 01:38 PM | #10 |
Old Skool Club
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Last (only) one I ever had done was $50...to get it boiled out, mains miked, new freeze plugs and new cam bearings. Let's see, it was 1978.....
__________________
Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
02-28-2011, 02:19 PM | #11 | |
Custom Sport W/T
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tarpon Springs,Fl & Annapolis,Md. ....................Quaint drinking villages with a fishing problem
Posts: 898
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Quote:
|
|
02-28-2011, 04:21 PM | #12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 165
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Quote:
Last edited by DeputyDan; 02-28-2011 at 04:24 PM. |
|
02-28-2011, 05:20 PM | #13 |
Local Redneck Authority
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 584
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
A few years back was the last small block I built, I believe it was $500 for block work w/o heads and just honing the cylinders. Sounds like machine work is about the same across the board give or take a few...
__________________
-Kevin four on the floor feel the beat in your soul movin to the rhythym pumpin til ya cant take no more dance if you want to do what you came to you cant ignore the feeling of that four on the floor |
02-28-2011, 05:40 PM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Casselton, North Dakota 58012
Posts: 1,082
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
What's a good way to decide on an engine rebuilder. I plan on doing a lot of the work myself, but I need the block magnafluxed and heads re-done and cam bearings installed. I've heard a lot of good things about 2 places around here that do good work. How do I choose what place to take it to?? I suck at choosing...
|
02-28-2011, 08:12 PM | #15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 165
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
good question ryan. In my case I have had the opportunity to talk to various people in the community who have used the shop I chose and checked internet reviews and better business bureau complaints. My question is is align honing the crank area and balancing the crank and rods necessary on a 350 that will just see the street? Anyone get by without it?
|
03-01-2011, 12:25 AM | #16 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,971
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Those prices are pretty much spot on for any engine rebuild. Not overpriced at all.
Gary
__________________
'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
Quote:
|
||
03-01-2011, 10:52 AM | #17 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 2,404
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
Isn't this the same thread?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=449833 A couple of quick notes: A line hone isn't really required unless the main bores aren't round or aren't straight. Not commonly understood, but a line hone is used to achieve correct bearing crush...not to "align" the main bore typically. If you're going to be turning more than 6K RPM on a regular basis, then it's a must have. The bearings you took out will tell the story. Zero decking needs to be approached carefully and with all the right math as it will dramatically affect your compression ratio. It's the right thing to do to achieve the right quench with a cheap, off-the-shelf gasket. I believe in boring and honing with torque plates as it gives a rounder bore for sure...but I always note that for a relatively stock rebuild it's not required. Note that no factory small block was plate bored/honed until the LS7, so we know that it's not required...it just makes more power Same thing for squaring the deck - if you're not making more than about 1.4 HP/CID it's really not worth it. It makes the cylinders all consistent...but if you're going to do that you should carefully check rod length, crank index, etc. IMHO, if you're not using a forged crank and aftermarket rods, it's not worth it as the index tolerance on a cast crank isn't close enough to make it matter. Last edited by Ticker; 03-01-2011 at 12:18 PM. |
03-01-2011, 11:17 AM | #18 |
Custom Sport W/T
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tarpon Springs,Fl & Annapolis,Md. ....................Quaint drinking villages with a fishing problem
Posts: 898
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
DDixon1000 you now have 19 replies of mostly pure speculation. If we don't know what you expect out of the engine no one can give an accurate account of what is needed to achieve your goal. If you Plastigage the main bearings as you assemble and the clearance is correct and the crank spins smoothly with no tight spots then buy a keg of beer with the money you saved for not doing the align hone that you "didn't need". If it is to be a mostly stock configuration street engine and you don't have known crank bore problems then align honing and "file fit" rings is like putting a $300,000.00 saddle on a $20.00 horse. Just my $.02
|
03-02-2011, 09:31 PM | #19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 165
|
Re: Engine Machine Work
thanks guys!
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|