Sectioned front crossmember?

[shortbed70]

What is the reason behind doing this? Do you basically move the entire thing up in the frame rails? Or am I missing something.
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[Pop's C-10]

you missed nothing

[67cheby]

your factory crossmember is the first thing to touch the ground when you go really low ! and yes it it just moving it up so the frame will go lower and not hit the crossmember !!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

your factory crossmember is the first thing to touch the ground when you go really low ! and yes it it just moving it up so the frame will go lower and not hit the crossmember !!

Or.... Get more clearance @ a similar drop. 1" of additional clearance w/6" of front static drop is the difference sometimes between damaged a-arms or not.

[roofingbloke]

I am just doing a crossmember section (1.25") My static drop was so low, when i came off the gas my crossmember would hit the tarmac, Not good,

Every inch counts when it comes to safety,

I am also going on air,

[Slammed50]

I know this post is a few months old but is there any info on how much the crossmember needs to be sectioned in order for the center section of the rails to lay out flat? It looks like only a couple inches but am curious if somone has the magic number. I am talking with factory control arms as well. Thanks.

[SCOTI]

The limitation will be the steering unless you swap to R&P.

You can only go about 1.5" before the OE style steering tie-rod ends hit the lower control arm u-bolt nuts as the steering swings through its arc. I've also found that what works for 1 application, might be an issue on another (parts combination, year of chassis, clearancing required).

[jimmydean]

I may be wrong, but I don't think you can lay frame just by sectioning the crossmember. You only get about 1.5" out of it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

I may be wrong, but I don't think you can lay frame just by sectioning the crossmember. You only get about 1.5" out of it.

The 1.5 is the limit because of OE steering box location....

Originally Posted by Slammed50

Minus any steering issues since I will be using a r&p set

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The 1.5 is the limit because of OE steering box location....

Ah, even so I didn't think you could get 3"+ out of it. Hence the preface "I may be wrong" since I usually am.

Sectioned crossmembers and z'ed frames seem like way too much work to save very little over the various options available now (Porterbuilt, NoLimit, Scotts).

[kev2809]

which means he can chop the crossmember roughly 3" (like a frame "Z") until the frame lays.

but if your going rack and pinion anyways, would z'ing your frame be easier? you dont have to take anything (motor wise) off in order to do it, just a lot of boxing...

i havent done either so im just speaking of hear say!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kev2809

which means he can chop the crossmember roughly 3" (like a frame "Z") until the frame lays.

but if your going rack and pinion anyways, would z'ing your frame be easier? you dont have to take anything (motor wise) off in order to do it, just a lot of boxing...

i havent done either so im just speaking of hear say!

No Limits R&P set-up is affordable vs. other R&P kit alternatives & doesn't required welding. The x-member can be removed & easily carried to a welder/shop in a small car for the notch if a guy doesn't have a welder or welding experience. It also isn't as critical from a strength perspective for the novice welder since technically half of the bolts that secure/locate the unit remain on the un-modified side of the x-member vs. cutting off & re-attaching the front clip correctly/successfully.

If a guy was trying for more than 1.5" of drop/travel gain, a Dropmember (or similar dropped crossmember alternative) would be the better alternative vs. the x-member notch.

[Slammed50]

Thanks for the info scoti, I am in the process of building my suspension now so as soon as in all comes back from the sand blaster I will be able to get a better idea of how much I need to section it. It doesn't look like I need to go as much as 3" but I will find out in a couple weeks. I'll keep you posted.
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[Slammed50]

Kev, I am tryin to avoid a z'ed frame if at some point I want to change up the front suspension. If I section the crossmember all I have to do pull the bolts and I'm ready to go.
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[dv8customs]

There is not enough material there to section the crossmember 3". In order to fully lay out with a stock crossmember you will need to Z it some.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by dv8customs

There is not enough material there to section the crossmember 3". In order to fully lay out with a stock crossmember you will need to Z it some.

That's what I thought. I didn't think you could get much over 2.25" max and even getting that much would be a lot of work.

I understand what you are wanting to do. I think Scoti is right on the nose with the No Limit rack setup as a best option if you didn't want to go full on DM.

[Slammed50]

Guess I need to take another look at it and see what my next step will be then. Don't really have the cash to drop on a DM as much as I would like to. Brainstorming time....
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[LUCKIN-FOU]

1] Here are some pictures of a cross member that I did a couple of years ago. I took 2.25 inches out of the middle. I did it on one of my trucks I never finished it because it’s mine. I had to get to work on a paying job.

I made sure it was level. This way when I welded some legs on it when I put it back together it was true and square.









All I did was find the center mark it with 2” tape and make some lines. I went with 2 inches because I didn’t need a bunch of clearance.

[jayman68]

Originally Posted by LUKIN-FOU

1] Here are some pictures of a cross member that I did a couple of years ago. I took 2.25 inches out of the middle. I did it on one of my trucks I never finished it because it’s mine. I had to get to work on a paying job.

I made sure it was level. This way when I welded some legs on it when I put it back together it was true and square.

All I did was find the center mark it with 2” tape and make some lines. I went with 2 inches because I didn’t need a bunch of clearance.

What is the purpose shortening it that way? That may help tuck the wheels better, but you would also need to move the frame rails in an inch on each side. It looks like you did a good job. This thread is talking about raising the c/m up to get the frame closer to the ground.

Edit: Sorry I didn't see page 2

[Slammed50]

Looks like a nice job Lou but the section needs to be horizontally not vertically to make it sit lower. Thanks for the pics though!!
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[LUCKIN-FOU]

I'll post some of them

[Rochlow]

and by narrow the crossmember in this manner, wouldn't you have to pinch the front frame rails and radiator mounts?

[Captkaos]

Here is the how-to that I put together on doing these when I was building and selling them on the board here about 10 years ago. I have a much simpler way to doing this now with just 2 different size pieces of tape. If I remember, I will try and replace all the old photos with the new ones. This has been copied MANY times and if you do it this way all your factory mounts work.

http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html



XXL had one of these under his and was one of the first ones I sold on the board. Use to be a huge thread on his install...

[broey]

heres a picture of how my crossmember was done. took two inches out of the middle, the huge holes you see where plated, then the whole crossmember was raised 3 inches and welded to the inside of the frame. the upper control arm mounts where then plated to the frame and the frame was boxed. the point of removing the 2 inches from the middle is to suck the tires into the truck to help with turning.

[yossarian19]

I asked over at the Task Force truck board but seems most guys go with a car based front section.
When you section (narrow) the front cross member on these C10 suspensions, what else needs modifying? I am wanting to wind up with a 62" track width (ideally, 60") and put it under my '57.
I've considered that I may need to section the center steering link, though I'd rather not...