New Guy, Real Question

[BMERDOC]

Hey All, My name is Nick. I've gotta admit I've been spyin on you guys for a while to solve my problems but now I have a real one and I can't solve it. Im gonna introduce myself then tell you my problem, I'll try to be as brief as possible.

I'm a 37 y/o BMW mechanic, been with them since '96. I ended up that way because I grew up loving hot rods. Unfortunately, Richmond, Va is not the center of the Hot Rod Universe. So i looked for someone who had great benefits, high pay and something as close to a hot rod as they could muster. I found BMW. If you research them or know about them you know that even the most mundane BMW is a Hot Rod by definition, RWD, 4w discs, handling unmatched by competitors and so on.

I have always loved cars and life has not imersed me in a hobby, more of a job. Marriage, kids, bills, you know. Finally, I decided I need to do what I was born to do and tracked down number one on my list of all time favorite cars. I found a runnin, drivin 1967 short bed C10 for $700.00! I took minutes for me to tell the guy I wanted it. He brought it to the house on May 12, 2011. I've had to do a lot of work but I expect to be doin dounuts by the end of this comin weekend.

Enough about me, now my problem. Let me preface this by saying this truck will be upgraded and upgraded and upgraded somemore. I know about the upgrades but I need what I have to work now.

One of my final projects before leaving the driveway to go to the nearest gas station is the front drum brakes soooo... I replaced the brake hoses, whl cyls, and shoes. When refurbishing the drums I was installing the seal and noticed the seal didn't want to go flush with the back of the drum race. I guess I ruined it. My question is this: Should the rear seal on the front drums sit proud of the drum by several millimeters or should it be "driven home". The wear pattern on the spindle looks like it should sit proud to seal on the base of the spindle.

I look forward to talking, helping and sharing my experiences with you guys!

[70cst]

Hey BMERDOC ...
and to your new internet 67-72 and truck family. Sounds like you have a truck that your are workin on. Oh yes...we luv pics

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by 70cst

Oh yes...we luv pics

[ChevLoRay]

I agree that the seal should not sit proud (stick above the plane) of the bearing area.

As far as upgrades go.....BMW has some awfully nice, nee expensive to maintain, engines. My cuz has a V12 sedan and its' V8 counterpart. Hard to believe that BMW has a cartridge oil filter system....instead of a spin-on. GM got away from that filter in the late 60's. I know, it's not your fault.....and it does provide some folks with continued employment.

[Frkypunk70]

First of all welcome!! Next, I have no clue the answer to your problem as my truck was converted to disc. In my opinion though, you have the right Idea with the wear pattern of the original. Are you afraid of setting it too much? Or think something is worn out? Unless its sloppy, and does'nt interfere with anything. a seal is a seal, right? Just wondering these guys will probably want more info.

[BMERDOC]

First off 70cst, I can only hope to one day be that articulate in my forum mannerisms as you : ).
Second, Frkypunk70, I can't remember the last time I held A Timken roller bearing in my hand let alone packed grease and set bearing pre load.
I installed the right drum seal and "drove it home" as I remembered doing on many a disc with roller bearings but was not confident because it took excess force to seat. The left drum seal was a complete failure beacause it cocked and crimped the seal. I used TS280 NAPA shoes and the arch is too great to the get the drum back on so I have to return the shoes and get new ones. "Driving the seals home" just was not confidence inspiring and did not seem to match the wear pattern. Im thinking they need to be installed just until they seat.

[VA72C10]

wish I could help more...but I'll send this thread back up to the top with a friendly "bump"


Welcome from Midlothian, VA. I was going to look at that 67 but never got time (if it was the one on craigslist). If you ever need parts I have a garage and downstairs (and parts of my yard ) full of parts. Most have a price but I also have a bunch of misc bolts, wiring connectors, and used lenses I "donate" to builds if you need something to get your truck on the road...

[CG]

Bonni the board chicken knows BMW's ... Welcome to the site

YouTube - ‪Bonnie and Matt Mullins...

[BMERDOC]

OK, was reaching in the bottom drawer of my tool box to get my winshield cutting tools out when I noticed a crusty old wheel seal on the floor beside the trash can!! There was enough dirt left on it to find out it needs to be lightly seated and not driven home. Just an FYI if you find yourself in this situation ; )

VA72C10!! I look forward to meeting you. I've been to a couple of the southside cruise nights but so far they haven't turned out to be anything (Jonny Rocketts and Rockwood Shopping center). I've used some of your archived tips in getting my truck on the road. As far as the truck goes if you remember it was black with a white camper shell and west coast mirrors (both history).

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

OK, was reaching in the bottom drawer of my tool box to get my winshield cutting tools out when I noticed a crusty old wheel seal on the floor beside the trash can!! There was enough dirt left on it to find out it needs to be lightly seated and not driven home. Just an FYI if you find yourself in this situation ; )

VA72C10!! I look forward to meeting you. I've been to a couple of the southside cruise nights but so far they haven't turned out to be anything (Jonny Rocketts and Rockwood Shopping center). I've used some of your archived tips in getting my truck on the road. As far as the truck goes if you remember it was black with a white camper shell and west coast mirrors (both history).

Good info on the seal.

Try the Ironbridge sports park cruise in the next Friday evening you want to check out a cruise-in. Always seems to have at least 4-5 of our generation trucks there in addition to other cool cars, trucks, and bikes.

I do remember that one and saw the potential. I'm sure just the mirrors and camper being gone make a HUGE difference in the look!

[specialtyretail]

If you have 11 x 2 brake shoes, TS280 is the right #. If they are 11 5/32 x 2 3/4 you need TS248. Good luck with the build.

[BMERDOC]

They are 2" and I've got the guys at NAPA gettin me another set of TS280s. One of the older guys at the shop mentioned that if the stampings made it through the core/reman process multiple times, it is possible that back in the day they may have taken a ride in an arching machine to fit a well worn set of drums. If the new ones still don't fit I may be forced to shave some material off the stampings at the adjuster and upper pivot. The only thing that concerns me about that is drum contact patch. Hopefully I'll be stopping with power discs before the end of the summer anyway.

VA72C10, I'll ride down to Ironbridge friday night. Look for the green BMW, you can't miss it. That is if you are there.

[BMERDOC]

10-4 on the pics! Looked up how to do it. I'll post some when I get home.

[VWBeamer]

LOL, they are all cars. The Germans have there own way. sometimes I think they are really cleaver, other times they leave me scratching my head.

Ever since i was little I thought an engine was magic, and wanted to know more about them.

[BMERDOC]

Ok, not sure how this is gonna go so I'll try it once. The first pic is of the seal. The second is of course my new friend. Third is the Craigslist ad pic. Fourth is self explanatory and last is the '77 250. The monojet casting numbers and block numbers indicate this. I'll get better at pics, promise.

[BMERDOC]

Now for the parts. The first pic is of my freshly walnut blasted and rebuilt heavy breathin' Monojet. Second, My repaired and rewrapped harness, had to replace the tail light wire using the correct terminals and brown wire. Third is the start of my homebuilt lowering blocks (thanks for the tip guys). Forth pic is of the tail lights after adding a ground circuit, 2057 bulbs, rattle can chromed buckets and all new lenses. Lastly, my rattle can chrome headlight trim (new it wasn't gonna be chrome but I do like the finish)

[VA72C10]

Looking good man! Not sure if I'll be out there this Friday but I'll try to make it if I can.

Planning to paint the grille trim chrome too?

[BMERDOC]

THANKS!!
Yeah I'd like to paint the trim and bumpers to match the "chrome". I wanna paint the grill white like a CST(?). I'm gonna sand the body smoother and get it one color and gap all the panels better. My co worker is sandblasting the wheels then I will paint them a dark bronze Rustoleum color I found at Lowe's. I got 255/60 15s to put all the way around. When I convert to 5 lug I'll swap to better wheels. Im not gonna replace the wheels I have with new wheels if they are temps. Just got a $24 chambered "Soundmaster" muffler today and tried it, sounds nice. I'll exit it outta the passenger side with a nice tip.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

THANKS!!
Yeah I'd like to paint the trim and bumpers to match the "chrome". I wanna paint the grill white like a CST(?). I'm gonna sand the body smoother and get it one color and gap all the panels better. My co worker is sandblasting the wheels then I will paint them a dark bronze Rustoleum color I found at Lowe's. I got 255/60 15s to put all the way around. When I convert to 5 lug I'll swap to better wheels. Im not gonna replace the wheels I have with new wheels if they are temps. Just got a $24 chambered "Soundmaster" muffler today and tried it, sounds nice. I'll exit it outta the passenger side with a nice tip.

Cool, that'll look nice! The grille will look good in white.

I do have a factory 5 lug front (disc) and complete rear setup. The rear is of course wider as all 71-72 are so depends on the wheels/backspacing you plan. You can always purchase conversion axles for your stock rear and put 5 lug discs on the front with new spindles if you're going that route (lowering)

[BMERDOC]

Yeah, I found a '71 chassis in New Kent. The guy said it was a short bed but when we compared measurements turns out its a long bed. Anyhoo, he wants $100.00 for it. I have mixed emotions about installing stock spindles initially only to replace them with dropped spindles. But, the rear end makes it a screamin' bargain.
I plan on a static 4/6 drop with 18/20, 20/20 or 20/22 combo. Ill cross that bridge when I get there. Current plans call for rear 2" blocks and 1 coil in the front just to bring it down some. The motor runs great and it'll power the truck for now. I'm sure I'll just replace it with a dressed up low mileage current age engine later (LSX?) and matching auto trans.
Rule #1 is that it needs to be safe, reliable and cool. Im keeping my blinders on and not trying to get off track. Fix whats broken and get it drivin! BTW, I got some super nice NOS, never been used, VA 1967 tags. Heres the pics of the plates and my inspiration (inspiration truck found on this site).

Sorry my posts are so long, I just have a lot to talk about right now. Im sure they'll shorten up when I get settled.

[BMERDOC]

LOL, Thanks VWBEAMER I know. I bought it for $700.00 but I have about $900.00 in repairs including every nut, bolt, rattle can, etc.. Should be a total of $1000 before I can leave the driveway in it.

[VWBeamer]

I got ripped on my 67, dang, you gotta a deal.

[VA72C10]

Yeah, that is a GREAT deal!

I LOVE the inspiration truck also. Are you planning on the torque thrusts like on that truck or coys or something similar?

Those plates are very nice awesome!

Looking forward to following along with the truck. You should put the last couple posts on the projects and builds section and start a build thread to note your progress...

[VA72C10]

Oh, on the front end....you will need new ball joints and tie rod ends to do the swap. If at all possible I'd recommend going ahead and getting the spindles and those new parts now. No reason to do it twice....plus, you could damage the ball joints removing them later....
Plus, you can probably sell the entire 5 lug front end for around 100-150 to someone wanting to convert. I've seen them sell for more but the economy isn't so great if you haven't notice

Then you could sell the longbed frame for probably 100 more to help pay for the spindles.

If you buy 3" drop spindles I have 1" front lowering springs new in the box from McGaughys for $100 to give you that 4" front drop. Although...the look of the truck you have pictured is most likely airbags and around a 6/8 drop...

[VA72C10]

Those look good!

Are those boss 338's or something else? Just make sure they come in the right backspacing for our trucks.

White with red is a really nice look!

I can help with the move if you want me to move any of the posts not related to the brakes. Just let me know what name you want for the thread. If I can't do it I'll have one of the other admins help.