6.0/4L60E swap finally done

[Firebirdjones]

Lots of pics here with explanations of how I did things that people said couldn't be done.
I'll start from the beginning.

6.0 complete with truck style exhaust manifolds. Ready to drop in.

[Firebirdjones]

Fresh 4L60E with all the goodies inside to take some punishment
Advance Adapters supplied the output shaft and all the adapters to mate this to the original 205 transfer case.

[Firebirdjones]

Advance Adapters also supplied a new transfer case mount because I didn't want to machine on my original.

[Firebirdjones]

And here it is sitting in the Blazer.

[Firebirdjones]

Now for the engine.
I wanted to use all my factory gauges in the dash, here's how I did it.

I drilled the passenger side head to accept the factory temp sending unit. Here are some pics of the difference in size and the bit necessary for the pipe tap.

[Firebirdjones]

The oil pressure gauge was much simpler. I just drilled and tapped the cap off fitting right above the oil filter, and then ran the oil pressure line to it.

[Dunenutt]

Anxious to see how this turns out! This will be next, when my motor goes kaput.

[OldCreek]

Sweet!

(Welcome to the club!)

[matthew79]

Awesome!! Have you drove it yet? How's the power??

[Thealien]

Great job!! A couple of questions please. Whose crossmember is that? Any more pics of location and front dif clearance?

I can't believe you have a deep transmission pan with stock height. I have the same 5.3/4L60 and had to notch my stock pan? Looks great. Is your transfer case in the stock location?

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Great job!! A couple of questions please. Whose crossmember is that? Any more pics of location and front dif clearance?

I can't believe you have a deep transmission pan with stock height. I have the same 5.3/4L60 and had to notch my stock pan? Looks great. Is your transfer case in the stock location?

That crossmember is Pacific Fabrication. The only big issue I had with it was that it wants to mount into the frame exactly where the brakes lines pass though to the front wheels.
So I had to rebend the front brake lines and move them forward in the frame about 10 inches, then buy longer braided steel lines for a 6 inch lifted truck to reach the new locations in the frame.

Yes my transfer case is in the stock location. I didn't want to move that and open a can of worms with driveshaft lengths, shifter location etc....
So I moved the transmission and engine forward approximately 2 inches.
Not sure why you ended up notching your tranny pan. I read that about your swap and just automatically figured I'd have to do the same.
Then I bought this 4L60E out of a truck, which had the deeper pan and thought I would really run into a big problem. You can see the deep pan in one of those pics. I figured I would have been cutting the entire side of the pan out and rewelding after the horror stories I've read about standard depth passenger car pans.
Then I dropped it all in and it cleared with room to spare. Not sure why but it works great. That front driveshaft also has that large coupler on it back there too with a pair of U-joints in it.
I assume it's the same thing you have?

I'll get some more pics up tomorrow, and try to snap a couple while resting on the ground. Not sure how that will turn out but I'll try.

[Thealien]

Thanks,

I did the same thing with leaving my transfer case in the stock location and also have the double cardon joint (double U joint like you). I used the same advance adapters 4 to 6 bolt adapter and even used their new aluminum transfer case mount like you?

I'm scratching my head?

I had looked at Pacific fabs crossmember and they said it wouldn't work without a lift?

Thanks again. Looks great.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Thanks,

I did the same thing with leaving my transfer case in the stock location and also have the double cardon joint (double U joint like you). I used the same advance adapters 4 to 6 bolt adapter and even used their new aluminum transfer case mount like you?

I'm scratching my head?

I had looked at Pacific fabs crossmember and they said it wouldn't work without a lift?

Thanks again. Looks great.

More pics are coming, just hang tight. Weather didn't cooperate today.

Sounds like our setups are identical. The Pacific Fab crossmember has since been redesigned in the last couple of months. It's not mentioned on their website anywhere, but talking to them on the phone, it's now made to clear the differential better without using a suspension lift. They really tucked it up tight to the oil pan.
I'm like you, I didn't want to raise the truck at all (getting to old to climb in and out )

[rsavage]

Nice work!

[Firebirdjones]

Here ya go Thealien, I held the camera under the truck and aimed as best I could. Snapped a couple of pics. It's still not the best pics but hopefully you get an idea.

[Firebirdjones]

Been driving it quite a bit the last few days. No issues so far. Still tinkering with the tune. Boy GM really puts a soft tune in these truck engines with single digit timing curves, and the commanded 11.7 AFR at WOT isn't helping performance either It's coming around though. It's starting to wake up and get with the program.

[1949gmc]

How long did this project take ya, from start to now? Looks great. Would like to see more pics of entire truck, too, though.

[Firebirdjones]

I've been collecting all the parts for several months, researching and buying more parts During that time it was a running and driving truck that I drive daily.

But from the time I actually turned a wrench on it and removed the original drivetrain tothe finished product......It took about 3 weeks.

I was held up a day here and a day there during the process though, as I had to order other parts that I didn't plan. I spent time fabbing things like the exhaust, cutting the battery tray apart and rewelding so I could mount it on the other side. To do that I had to move one of the horns, no big deal. The engine was in and out 3 times for trial fitting the exhaust manifolds, of which I had to slightly notch the frame. And I had to mark the holes for the new crossmember, remove and drill. This crossmember also required that I move the front brake lines which passed through the frame exactly where the crossmember wanted to sit. That was an unforseen obstacle. So I moved the lines forward in the frame about 10 inches which required new flex hose that was longer (for a lifted truck) to reach the new location in the frame, then rebend all the hard lines that cross under the radiator. That all took a little time.

Everything else was pretty straight forward and simple.

I'll pull it out today and take some shots of the truck if you like. It still looks like the same ole truck on the outside though

[nightmare]

Very nice work. One question though, are you running a stand alone computer for the 4L60E or did you do something else to have it lock up?

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by nightmare

Very nice work. One question though, are you running a stand alone computer for the 4L60E or did you do something else to have it lock up?

I'm using a factory GM computer from an 05 Yukon to run both the engine and the trans. I tune it with HPtuner to pretty much make it do anything I want as well as diagnose any issues it may have.
Already had the software from tuning our 4th gen camaro's so it made even more sense to do this conversion for me.

What also makes it slick is that it controls the dual electric fans that I pulled from a 4th gen camaro, as well as now the blazer has cruise control, also ran from the computer since I used a drive by wire throttle body.

[Firebirdjones]

Someone asked, here is a quick shot of the blazer, although a poor one. The weather wasn't cooperating today and I didn't want to stand out in the rain.

[Firebirdjones]

I just ordered the high mount AC bracket system from Kwik performance and a brand new Sanden compressor. Once that's on I'll have some hoses made, do a 134 conversion and the AC should be back up and running soon.

[yellow70]

Let's hear it run !!

[Firebirdjones]

Here are a couple of shots of the brake lines I mentioned.

Looking at this shot close, you can see the 4 bolts coming through the frame. That's where the new crossmember mounts. In the middle of those bolts you can see a large hole in the frame. That's where the original brake hose passes through. That clearly won't work. As you can see I moved the brake hose forward (on both sides) which required a longer hose (for a 6" lift)




Since I moved the hoses, it also required making new hard lines, bending and flaring. Not a big deal, you can see them here running in their original locations under the radiator....

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by yellow70

Let's hear it run !!

Haha, I could probably do a short video, would take some help from my wife though, I'm lucky I can post pics

I still have a ways to go to dial it in. I may or may not do a gear swap on it. So far I'm impressed with the way it runs with measly 3.07's in it and tall 33" tires I'll probably baseline it at the local dragstrip and see where it's at, but I'm really leaning towards a set of 3.73's, then throw a magnuson on it