Gorey's 67 GMC 3/4 ton Shop Truck

[goregalore]

Alright,
Here is the start of my thread for the 67 GMC 3/4 ton I just purchased 2 weeks ago. It was purchased new in Arizona, and was used as the shop truck for decades. Recently the gentleman gave the truck to his nephew who served in afghanistan as a gift, and it was trailered back to indiana.


I posted a gallery and will work to keep it updated when I work on the truck.







I found it on Craigslist and I had been looking for a couple weeks.

It is in excellent condition for how old it is.
There is only 1 through body rust spot on the whole truck and that is in the driver side rocker panel.



Other than that it is all surface rust, and there is one dent in the whole truck.


Prior to buying it I had already made plans to purchase a 66 or 67 GMC and pulling the v6 and trans that is had in it and replacing with a 350, so it coming with one only made my job easier.
It has a 350 with a 4 barrel holley carb and a 400 turbo trany.
The carbs need to rebuilt and I purchased holley brand rebuild kit, New floats, and choke linkage kit (the linkage was trashed) and have all the parts to do that now. Even so, the engine runs good.
Just replaced the plugs, but probably need to go ahead and replace the plug wires, distributor, and rotor, Will be also replacing the belts asap, as will the thermostat gasket. It is leaking.



It has a very recently rebuilt rearend


currently it has no rear brakes. You can see the last owner put a pair of vice grips on the brake hose in the rearend pic. LOL
I also have all the parts to rebuild the rear brakes soon. And will also need to reattach the emergency brake.

The truck has some great details to it




So what I was thinking of doing is cleaning up all the rust, and doing a faux finish patina paint job. So it looks old, and distressed, but is protected. I have alot of experience in doing this in my business. I haven't done any painting on trucks but tons and tons of Haunted House props since that is my business for the last 13 years.
http://www.gore-galore.com

It also used to be a camper as evidenced by the tank switches, and the left and right fuel tank covers that do not have tanks behind them anymore



I also just purchased baby moon hub caps and 16" trim rings from
http://www.autoamenity.com/
I was surprised to find 12" baby moons to replace the ford dog dish hub caps that came on it. I looked for days. This was the ONLY place I could find 12" baby moons let alone being 2.5 inches deep.

I will be selling the ford hub caps as soon as I get the new hubcaps on it.


I know that most hubcaps do not fit over the floating hubs on the heavy duty rearend. But I measured and these are REAL close. The Baby moons I found are 2.5 inches deep so that should be enough to drill out and tap screws into the rims if they do not snap onto the 4 humps on the rims well enough. I will also be painting the rims to match the body.

The interior, dash, and gauge cluster are also trashed.



And lots of other misc broken parts like the driver side mirror, vent window glass, and handle, and shifter knob. The windows seals ALL seam to leak. And ALL the body and bed mounts need to be replaced.
But I know I made a great investment. The important parts such as the frame, engine, transmission, rearend, and body are ALL in phenomenal shape.

It also came with ALL the trim work. Some is slightly bent so I possibly be selling it to.

Please comment,
I look forward to learning from the members of this forum and hopefully I can impart some of the little knowledge I also have to this group.

[gcburdic]

and to the site goregalore!!! love that user name!!!

Looks like ya picked up a good truck....those buddy bucket seats are a rare item, so although they are abit over used, I would tell ya to keep and re-upholstery them....the dash bezel is an easy replacement item too....post up a pic of the inside of the glovebox door (SPID)...love to see what other options it has

Good luck with your build and ask those questions...we are here to help!!!

[litew8]

this ought to be interesting!

[goregalore]

thanks gcburdic
Gore Galore is my business so, sorry to say I am not being that inventive

Here is a bit better shot of the dash and glove box. It is in good shape, the glove box that is.

The seat foam is also in good shape, but I need to do the window seals before I try to recover the seats. I can see it degrading the foam now. I have seen aqua vinyl online, but I think a tweed or other breathable material more comfortable.
Do you know of a good source for the dash and the seat covers?

litew8, I really do hope it will be interesting. I want to get the truck in good operation, then I will play with the patinas. I gave the whole truck a good cleaning with my power washer. I still can't believe there is not one hole in the bed.
And the gate is straight.


Oh, and something else interesting. I have the stock underdash air conditioner. The original owner took it out soon after buying it, so it has been in a box for over 40 years, and so it should be in good working order, Supposedly.

And I have the original GMC owner's and drivers manual, and Protect-O-plate still in the owner protection plan manual from the issuing Buick Dealer. Oh, and there is a picture of the original owner in the manual. LOL

[goregalore]

This is looking to be a great inspiration for the paint I am looking to do, plus more faux rust.

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by goregalore

Do you know of a good source for the dash and the seat covers?

check out our site vendors!!! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/links/browselinks.php?c=2

[goregalore]

thanks again Gents.

Here are the glovebox pics you requested.





I also already received the baby moons I ordered. And I am happy to say, Easy fit. 12" Baby moons that are 2.5" deep fit just fine over the floating hub rearend. I am waiting on the trim rings to arrive.



But I am very sad to say I talked to Hubcap mike when researching the purchase of the hubcaps, and trim rings. Rather a jerk that acted like my business was not worth messing with.


Here are more pics of the patina on the truck that I want to expand upon.



And there are a couple spots of paint that have crackled. I can also do this effect. But not sure how this would be seen. It would be labor intensive. Just not sure if it would be worth the work.


And here is the logo I will be doing on the doors but either in white or black. And then distressing or white washing to age the look.

[litew8]

[litew8]

Have you done your homework on where they tend to rust most? Guess you wouldn't have to look far for examples.

[gcburdic]

so gorey

[goregalore]

Here is the logo in black and white




Glad you can appreciate the humor in it, and it is going to look good too.

[goregalore]

Today I put on a new thermostat gasket. The old one was leaking. I tried to put on new fan belts but the new one was just short enough to not work, and the next size up was not in stock so stalled out.


But having been reading the boards and hearing about using molasses and water as a rust remover, I had to try it.

I started a gallery for this project. Will post more pics when complete.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...t=1405&ppuser=

[goregalore]

Finally got both belts replaced. Now it doesn't whine when Accelerating. those belts were frayed and nasty.

Okay,
I am having some frustration with getting my rear drums turned. I have been wanting to get the ALL new rear brake parts installed, but took the drums to several shops and each said the size of the hub (4 9/16) is too large to put on the lathe.
So need to mount on the hub to turn.
I was hoping I didn't need to pull the hub but realize i need to anway to do the brakes. Duh! So, I will look at doing that tomorrow after work. I think I will just need to replace the seals when I pull the hubs.

[litew8]

Never had drums turned before. Interesting.

[goregalore]

I really could use some input here.

I just started cleaning and rebuilding what I thought was a Holley 4160 carb, but I am not sure what it is now. It says 6R-7809, and on the horn 1950-5 and 2410 under that. I crossed check the #s and came up with part # 80457 which is a 4160. But I could be wrong.

I thought 4160 had an electric choke, but this one does not, or atleast it doesn't now.
The choke linkage is trash. It has a hand made choke arm, plus someone has ground off a part of the linkage. I have all the linkage parts except the choke arm in the rebuild kit.

I purchased a holley trick rebuild kit, the choke linkage kit, new floats, and a new secondary diaphragm.

Other possible issues.
I am going to replace the floats but I was also trying to determine why this carb was loading up on fuel.
I noticed one of the floats is newer than the other. And they were different weights. You could tell just by holding them, but they were also labeled (primary) F4 and (secondary) F80. To be honest, I don't know what that means.
Plus the float springs are obviously different they look different and have different compression strength.
The primary float is lighter as is its float spring.
The secondary is the heavier float as is its float spring.

So, I guess I will finish cleaning up the carbs, and after talking to a friend about the floats and possibly getting a new linkage then reassembling this thing.

[goregalore]

I have been working to get the breaks rebuilt on this beast, I was able to determine that I would need to buy a new hub just to get the drums turned so I think I will be out about $75 in the process with the turning cost, plus the cost of getting a hub to use to turn them. Which has turned out to be a pain in the arse. And I don't know how much life is left in these drums.

But I did price premium drums and they were $49.99 a piece including shipping through napa, pre-discount. So, maybe $40 a piece for brand new drums.
I think that is a better option all around so they have been ordered.

[67chevy1series]

any progress?

[goregalore]

Yes, actually
Got the Carb rebuilt and cleaned up and put back on the 350. It doesn't load up anymore. Thanks to prostreetC-10 for donating and sending me the choke arm to complete the rebuild.

It took me 2 full days to do the cleanup and rebuild, while my wife was gone so I could use the kitchen table, using the Holley trickit kit, the manual choke kit, and new floats. but it runs SMOOOOOTH!
It took it over to a mechanic friend and he said it was as smooth as it could ever get.

I just need to check the needle valves and floats for the last time and call that part done.

As soon as I get the chance I will post the rebuild pics to a new gallery. I figure it has to help some newbies such as myself.

My business is crazy busy right now and time if of the essence.


And the choke cable seems to be too long. It isn't pulling the choke butterfly as smoothly as it should. So, I will need to trim the cable down some.

Next step is to install all the new brake components. But have had alot of trouble figuring out all I need for the emergency brake install. I don't want to install the brakes and then tear the brakes back apart to put the e-brake on.
Cables have been ordered. But not sure than is going to be enough. I have e-brake cables running to the back side of the cab on both sides, but ends there.

[goregalore]

Recommended Vendors,

I am seriously interested in some recommendations on suppliers.

I need

-Dash pad
-new gauge bezel with gauges. ALL the prices seem to work out the same when you add the gauges in or without when you add all the costs up.
-weatherstripping (windshield, doors, etc...)
-rear blade bumper (I would prefer OEM and I will get it chromed if necessary.
-seat covers. My wife and I can probably make them ourselves using my shop industrial sewing machine. But it would probably cost me more if we do.


I made a purchase from Brothers.
I got the parts in quick fashion. All I ordered was the urethane cab mount kit. It looks like a good kit, but no instructions for install. And of course this kit looks nothing like what the oem mounts look like.
I also purchased the factory assembly manual.
Very cool but also very confusing.
It has no index and the only organizational part is the trucks are broken up into model. But I purchased it for the purpose of looking up the Emergency cable installation. And guess what? I can't find it.

[goregalore]

Thanks Craig,

I really appreciate the info Geoff.
The image really helps. I ordered the read brake cables but I wonder if the clips will come with them. I have seen the cable run, but this image is perfect. But the one thing I am still having trouble finding is the hookup through or to the drum itself.
I can't seem to find any pics of this.
When I bought this truck it had NO rear brakes. The drums weren't even on it. So I have no idea what it is supposed to look like. But almost there!

[gcburdic]

Check the parts board for guys parting trucks....if the ebrake is still there, they should be able to retrieve the hardware necessary for it to go back together....as for the cable connection to the drum brake itself, try this...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=94977

[goregalore]

It took me quite some time just to find All the E brake parts I needed to put them back on this truck. thanks again to the members of this forum to help me find the answer.
I ordered the parts from Napa. But they were wrong.
SO, I chose wwwinlinetube.com for the rear Oem e brake cables, clips, and clamps but in stainless. I went ahead and ordered all new brake lines and drop hoses too since the ones on the truck were looking pretty rough. I am pretty much doing a complete brake system overhaul anyway so I might as well do it right.
I will be taking some pics along the way. Hopefully I will start on this next weekend.

[goregalore]

Wouldn't you know how it always goes. I got all new brake spring kit, wheel cylinders, etc... The Napa parts are working fine, but they do not work with the stock parts I had on hand so I had to also buy new brake bars. I also didn't realize the wheel cylinders did not come with the push pins, or push rods. So, I have the truck on jack stands with the brakes built minus push pins.
And I CANNOT find any anywhere. I have called LMC, the truck shop, and also all the local salvage yards.
So, Now I need to call on some members of this forum to help me out.
Anybody have 4 wheel cylinder push rods for a 67 gmc c2500 with leaf springs, 2.5" brakes shoes, and 12" ID drums.
thanks

[goregalore]

Alright, I just partially finished the install of the brake lines I just purchased from www.inlinetube.com. All I can say if this was the perfect solution.
I just cut the old lines out to make it quicker to remove couplers and T fittings. Clean the fittings and started matching up brake lines.
So easy when you buy pre-bent lines.
I also wire brushed the master brake cylinder, and the booster. And applied rust converter. It looks alot sharper. I will post pics tomorrow when I have light to photograph by.

And Duane (Heavymetalchevy) is sending me 2 wheel cylinders w Push rods.
Hopefully this will solve my last parts problem for the brakes.

[goregalore]

Here is a pic of the master cylinder, booster, and lines before cleaning and installation of the stainless steel brake lines



Here is what it looks like now with some wire brushing, rust converter, and installing new lines.



well, in regards to installing the inline tube lines. I had no trouble, and everything fit perfect until I reached the rear drop line. I had to put an almost 90 degree bend for a downward turn to install into the drop line mounting plate. And I had 2 other problems. The T fitting is too small of a fitting for the left and right lines. And the line to the Driver side wheel cylinder seems too long. It will fit with a little squeezing. But it doesn't contour the rear end the way I think it should.