MII installation in AD truck questions

[EvenX82]

Hi all. I'm thinking of installing an MII kit rather than doing the S-10 conversion. Has anyone heard of Jim Weimer Rod Garage LLC or know anything about their MII setups? I keep hearing of Heidts or Fat-man MII's.

And this may be a very amateur question to some but what is the best way to find the axle center-line? I've read several different companies directions and all say something different (btw my truck is a 54 GMC). Some measurements I've heard say measure 18 1/8 in back from front shackle mount, others say 18 3/8... does this differ depending on what kit I would use? Any help would be appreciated cause I'm quite confused on what to go by.

EvenX

[parkwood]

I've never heard of Jim Weimer's shop but did take the time to look them up and look at their site.. Their parts and prices are in line with everybody else.
I have used TCI front kits for years on all my builds and like them very much.. the four pictures are of a '51 suburban frame and a '56 pickup.. TCI uses the 18 1/8 mark but it's a very good idea to mark you axle C/L before you take anything apart...

[Scottshotrods]

You can also take a look at our custom ifs we manufacture and ours will be a coil-over setup not a coil-spring.We have a great forum special for all members on this site.Let us know if you have some questions you can call us or e-mail us at justin@scottshotrods.com 805 485-0382 We also have our Scotts superslam which will be bags to

Justin

[EvenX82]

thanks for the tips guys.

Justin, I just looked over your website and like what I see. You offer more options and a more complete package too. As soon as I get ready to order I'll give you a call.

Stupid question tho... how do I find the axle centerline?

[Scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by EvenX82

thanks for the tips guys.

Justin, I just looked over your website and like what I see. You offer more options and a more complete package too. As soon as I get ready to order I'll give you a call.

Stupid question tho... how do I find the axle centerline?

We have a spec sheet that will come with your kit and this will tell you where your center line is

If you still have your stock axle on your truck now.You can mark the center line on the king pens and transfer this to your frame rail and this will be your center line of your frontend.

Justin

[Lextech]

The stock axle centerline is not always the best centerline for modded and lowered trucks. I like to remove the front axle and set the tires into the wheel openings. Center the tire/wheel combo where it looks the best. Then use a plumb bob and plumb from the wheel opening down to the wheel centerline. Use that location for your new axle centerline.

Jeff

[booger1949]

me an a friend just installed a heidts ifs in his 53 an it was a breeze, an no modifacation of anything to put your frontend back together, u talk about freackin easy, way better than a s10 frame swap by far

[paintman]

I just bought a unit from Scott's for my 46 and I have to tell you the quality is top notch and the cross member fit like a glove! As far as customer service is concerned.... Justin is second to none, He was even in contact with me over the holiday weekend to answer all of my questions. Can't go wrong with Scott's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jmedero]

I'm running the Scott's super slam kit on my burb. Fit perfect and install was a breeze. Best part of all no looking around for this part and that part. It's all included.
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[mr48chev]

I haven't personally seen or used one of Jim Weimer's crosmembers but the rest of what they produce is highly regarded in the hot rod world.

[EvenX82]

Thanks for all the input guys

[bjcaldwe]

I have the Jim Weimer crossmember but it is not completely installed. The link in my sig will take you to my build thread. Also, look for a thread called Fred's Carry all. He has the same crossmember on his suburban.

I have bought some bags and a 4 link from Scott's. They have been good to deal with and I will probably be dealing with them some more in the future.

[CHIZZLER]

scotts stuff is very nice.the one piece crossmember makes it very easy.also adjustable upper and lower a-arms.

[fredscarryall]

i ordered the jw rod garage ifs.they have good customer service and good prices. but the only thing i didnt care for in the kit is that the upper control arm ball joint dust covers dont stay on the ball joints when you lower the truck all the way down to the running boards.not sure how big of a deal that is.but they may have fixed that by now.also had to move the crossmember forward a bit before welding it because the measurements where a little different on my front end for some reason ,but i just had to put the fender back on and find where the wheels looked best in the fender(no matter what the instructions say it alway a good idea to tack weld it in first to make sure the wheels are in the right position front to rear in the fender). i imagine alot of kits are that way.it does ride really nice. just remember if you order there kit make sure you get the (an) fitting for the the pressure and return lines that come out of the rack,i think they are only $20,but it will save you hours of time, money and headaches. also if you want to lay running board with this kit you will have notch the frame in the front about 1 3/4 inches to bring the cross member up into the frame.if you do get the kit and have any questions let me know.

[bjcaldwe]

x2 of what Fred has posted. I had to move around the crossmember to get it where I wanted. I noticed it was setting pretty high, but after reading his build I followed his lead and raised my crossmember into the frame too. I cannot report on how mine rides yet though lol.

[52 Rat]

I went with the Heidts IFS in my 52. I have installed their ISF kits in the past and like the quality and craftsmanship. Scott's is a nice kit too. Photos in my build thread.

[solidaxel]

I don't recall there being a problem with the gap on the top, if there was we just filled it in.
As for the bottom of the frame where the R&P bellows crosses under the frame we had to noch the frame a bit and add a round filler in place of the metal we removed. To compensate for this you may want to check with Justin and see if you can add a filler under the frame where it contacts the crossmember and raise the frame and lower the crossmember about 3/4 inch for clearence. I think by putting the r&P in place you can see this interference with the bellows.
This should eliminate your gap on the top of the frame also

[mr48chev]

Are the frame rails square ? Not in the usual X pattern corner to corner but when viewed from the front are the rails parallel to each other l____l and not sucked in just a bit.

From the way the level sits on them on top it looks like they are about as close as you can get but some guys have run into problems after welding in the boxing plates.

The unit that Scotts sells is a first rate piece and is beautiful to look at plus the one on one service but people have to remember that it may not be in everyone's budget. When a guy is asking about a 700.00 crossmember kit it usually means that his budget allows for a 700.00 kit and not a 2500.00 + kit. This may or may not be the case here but it is something to thing about before throwing out suggestions on any component of these trucks. We have guys with under 5k truck build budgets and we have guys with 100K truck build budgets but one can't be expected to use up a large part of the budget for one part.

[paintman]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Are the frame rails square ? Not in the usual X pattern corner to corner but when viewed from the front are the rails parallel to each other l____l and not sucked in just a bit.

From the way the level sits on them on top it looks like they are about as close as you can get but some guys have run into problems after welding in the boxing plates.

The unit that Scotts sells is a first rate piece and is beautiful to look at plus the one on one service but people have to remember that it may not be in everyone's budget. When a guy is asking about a 700.00 crossmember kit it usually means that his budget allows for a 700.00 kit and not a 2500.00 + kit. This may or may not be the case here but it is something to thing about before throwing out suggestions on any component of these trucks. We have guys with under 5k truck build budgets and we have guys with 100K truck build budgets but one can't be expected to use up a large part of the budget for one part.

I have already spoken with Justin about this, I have absolutely no complaints about his product (I spent about $2800 on it) its a first class piece. He told me (and I agree) its because the frame tapers slightly front to back. He suggested as his crew does, just slide a filler piece in the gap and weld in in. This is what I am going to do later today now that I have the final fitment done. I was just curious as to what solidaxel did with his unit. I am somewhat of a newbie at this and was just looking for alternative ideas if there where any. In fact my next door neighbor owns a body shop and builds hot rods on the side for people, he told me that my unit is one of the best he's seen.

[paintman]

I should have added that the cross member fit almost perfect (a press fit) right out of the box! I just had to make a slight adjustment to level the cross member in conjunction with the finished stance of the truck.

[mknittle]

that ok There is no way to get tight to that radius with that design cross member{not bad just the way it is} I would weld it. My old welding instructor would say you'll just get better penetration.

[mknittle]

Measuring in the X pattern is the only way to tell if things are square. if the frame is jogged from a side hit or out of parallel one side will be longer!

[upon1]

I put the Scotts super slam on my truck too. I remember filling that gap on mine as well. The piece fits really well and is a top notch product.
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