Speed warning brass pin removal?

[mahanian]

Has anyone pulled one out before? If so, could you educate me on how to accomplish this? I don't want to damage it and I'm not sure how it installs, but it looks like it has a swagged washer? Any help is appreciated!

[gcburdic]

ttt

[mahanian]

ttt

[jaros44sr]

Yep, its swagged, with two isolater washers in between. You would have to cut the brass washer to remove it. Then build another washer and swagging tool with four jaws to make it oringinal....why does yours have to come off

[mahanian]

That's what I figured, the tin was cut by the PO to install a factory tach but he cut the hole too low so the tach doesn't look right so I wanted to start over with a different tin but it doesn't sound like that's an option if I want to use the brass pin for the speed warning.

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Yep, its swagged, with two isolater washers in between. You would have to cut the brass washer to remove it. Then build another washer and swagging tool with four jaws to make it oringinal....why does yours have to come off

That is your 12 volt feed

I thought that the brass pin on the rear tin was a grounding lug, I am no wiring specialist but I wouldn't try putting 12 volts to that lug. The 12 volt supply (orange wire) should go to the buzzer with the grounding source (white wire) coming from the rear pin to the other terminal of the buzzer. Mel

Originally Posted by mahanian

That's what I figured, the tin was cut by the PO to install a factory tach but he cut the hole too low so the tach doesn't look right so I wanted to start over with a different tin but it doesn't sound like that's an option if I want to use the brass pin for the speed warning.

Didn't Wes send you another S/W rear tin, why not correctly punch/cut the factory OE rear S/W tin for a tach?

[mahanian]

Yep, Wes supplied me the other tin and I had him ship it directly to Les to cut the hole for the tach. I started this thread before we worked out those details. Les finished it up today and shipped it to me. Wes has been great about this whole thing and I will definitely do more business with him in the future!

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Yep, Wes supplied me the other tin and I had him ship it directly to Les to cut the hole for the tach. I started this thread before we worked out those details. Les finished it up today and shipped it to me. Wes has been great about this whole thing and I will definitely do more business with him in the future!

Glad it all worked out for you guys, did you catch the above part of my post about not puting 12 volts to the rear tin pin? Mel

[jaros44sr]

Mel, im sure your right about that pin, i was just passing on info. I got from someone with out confirming it or possibly misunderstood them.

Thanks for catching my miscue......

Why would GM isolate with plastic spacers if it is just a ground, dunno

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Mel, im sure your right about that pin, i was just passing on info. I got from someone with out confirming it or possibly misunderstood them.

Thanks for catching my miscue......

Why would GM isolate with plastic spacers if it is just a ground, dunno

Because the buzzer would constantly be going off if the pin was not isolated from the rest of the tin which is grounded through the printed circuit. Mel

I am slmost 100% sure that if 12 volts were added to that pin, the S/W head or atleast some of the contact parts of it would fry when the two needles came in line with with one another. I am thinking if you had 12V.to that rear pin and your S/W needle set @ 88, this old movie quote comes into mind: "If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88 miles per hour, you're gonna see some serious chit." Mel

[70shortfleet]

If you ever break one of the plastic screws that holds the speedo face on, do not replace it with a metal scew or the hole speedo head will be grounded and the buzzer will buzz continuosly