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03-20-2012, 08:54 PM | #1 |
Active Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 147
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Modifications on a 4.5/6 drop
I have a bare frame and am ready to place suspension on my first frame-off restoration. I like the 4.5/6 drop. I have new CPP 2.5" drop spindles and 2" lowered springs ready to install and will be putting 6" springs in the back.
What modifications should i make at this point? Should I C-notch the frame? Should I replace the trailing arm crossmember and/or the trailing arms? I am using the stock control arms and haven't altered them at all. Is this okay? I have done searches on these and would like to know what you guys would do or have done and why? Is there something you wish you would have done? I just want to do it one time and do it right but don't want to spend a ton on unneccessary modifications. Thanks for your help
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-Chad '72, C10, SWB, fleet, 4L80E, 406sbc, EFI, TruTrac Blackfoot '69 C20 Suburban, PB Dropmember, 3rd row, LS3 6.2L, 4l80e, rear A/C, Dakota Digital HDX Babe: The Blue Ox |
03-20-2012, 11:07 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,064
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Re: Modifications on a 4.5/6 drop
If you ever plan on going lower than the 4/6 (or carrying a decent load).....
It's really easy to do a c-notch now vs later. It's also alot easier to do an aftermarket truck arm crossmember which allows for running the exhaust up higher/farther from the ground & allows more clearance under the frame. Stock truck arms work fine.... Porterbuilt truck arms work better. Also consider shock relocation brackets to optimize the shock travel/geometry & an adjustable 'long' Panhard bar vs a stock length unit.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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