Project UGGH. 52 p/u-s10 5.3 V8

[altereddezignz]

Ok guys i would like to say hello and thanks first of all for the help already inside the forums on all your builds. So far they are all great. Only problem is i do not have enough time to read them all . YET!!

I am building a 1953 Chevy 5 window for a great friend of mine that is about to be shipped off to Afghanistan. We are all praying he comes back in good working order.. But this is my first truck build and i have a few questions that i would love to have some help on if i can get it..

The truck is a 1953 Chevy c3100 5 window. Short bed. It will have a 1999 5.3 with cam and headers and tune along with fast intake. It will be running the 1999 4l60E transmission.

Any advise on headers and or motor mounts?

Also for the guys who have done this what did you do with the 5.3 wiring harness. We ahve the complete harness from the 1999 for the motor and computer. The s-10 still has the complete harness for the lights, fuse block and so on.


#1 I will be building a new floor pan. now i know to use 18g sheet for any body work that i will be doing like the firewall and the floor and any patch panels.. Now i would like to build a frame under the floor out of 1x1 square tubing for support. Now i am not sure what thickness to use.

#2 I would like to build my own cross member but again not sure on thickness of material to use.

#3 There are a couple places i would like to brace side to side on the frame. Again not sure on thickness.

I will be boxing the frame in with 10g sheet almost from front to rear.

I guess my biggest issue is not knowing what size or thickness metal to use on alot of this..

I will hope to have some pictures up shortly. We have the 53 completely disassembled, we hope to have the s10 tore apart this weekend..

[xpickup]

Yes, I hope your buddy comes home in good working order. Sounds like a great build. I do my floors in 18 gauge sheet metal and I use 1x1 .125 wall box. Then I panel them with my bead roller to add strength to them. It works great. I do them all like that. You can check out my 2 truck builds. I did them both like that. As for the cross member, I would not anything less than 3/16. The frame braces I would use 1/8 , unless the rear suspension is going to be off of it then maybe 3/16.

Shannon

[altereddezignz]

Originally Posted by xpickup

Yes, I hope your buddy comes home in good working order. Sounds like a great build. I do my floors in 18 gauge sheet metal and I use 1x1 .125 wall box. Then I panel them with my bead roller to add strength to them. It works great. I do them all like that. You can check out my 2 truck builds. I did them both like that. As for the cross member, I would not anything less than 3/16. The frame braces I would use 1/8 , unless the rear suspension is going to be off of it then maybe 3/16.

Shannon

Thank you very much for the reply. Some great info in that.. I will look into your builds hopefully later today..

Thanks again for the information. Very helpful.

[xpickup]

altereddezignz, no problem. Always glad to help.


Shannon

[altereddezignz]

one more question. What headers can i use since it is a 5.3 in a s-10 frame. That are not way high priced. painted even?

[Fenhold]

Originally Posted by altereddezignz

one more question. What headers can i use since it is a 5.3 in a s-10 frame. That are not way high priced. painted even?

You might want to check out Speedway Motors for motor mount adapters. I believe I just saw some new ones in their catalog the other day.

Patriot Exhaust is a division of Pertronix and offers some "block huggers" or at least they did a couple of years ago.

Check out Street and Performance in Mena, AR for the harness. They should be able to set you on the right path.

I have a set of Direct Sheet Metal front floor patch panels, raised tranny cover and toe boards I'm not going to use. I ended up with the toe boards for stock and recessed firewall because they sent the wrong parts originally. They have light surface rust from sitting around a few years but a Scotch Brite pad will shine them up. Let me know if you are interested :
http://www.directsheetmetal.net/phot...chpufrtfl.html

[altereddezignz]

[altereddezignz]

The wheel does not look center in the picture but it is. I guess it is the angle that i took it in..

[altereddezignz]

Here is a list of specs for the truck
Here are specs on the truck.
1953 Chevy 5 window
1996 LWB S-10 Frame
2003 blazer 4x4 disc brake rear end.
In Dash hidden heater system
3.737 Rons Machining full gear kit with eaton posi
20" torque thrust wheels painted to match with polished lip
2 tone paint. Black and Silver
Black with Silver stitched interior
painted dash
black gauges with silver pointers.
1999 5.3 Chevy engine and transmission.
S-10 conversion headers
ez wiring 21 circuit mini harness
custom 5.3 wiring harness
x pipe with flows
bucket seats with center console to match the dash
7" screen
carpet floor
electric fans
wood floor bed
Below floor brake booster and master cylinder kit.
painted grill, headlight rings and bumpers.
integrated blinkers into head lights
Hid lights
led interior lights
smooth dash all but gauges
recessed firewall
painted frame and inner fenders and under fender openings.
all new gaskets
new glass
led tail lights

[altereddezignz]

Well i found the block hugger LS headers yesterday at Jegs for 225. Found the mounts at Oriellys for 6.99 each and found the adapter plate to go from the 5.3 to the old style motor mounts for my frame for 39.99 through Jegs..

[altereddezignz]

Well i now have the motor and trans set int he truck on the adapter plates and motor mounts. But i think that i have the motor mounts backwards. Seams that the back of the intake on the 00 5.3 sets about 4 inched inside the firewall. think im going to try swapping the engine mounts and see where it all is at. Ordered a set of block hugger headers and not to sure about the starter side. It is going to be very close to clearing..

Ordered the radiator yesterday but it is a center top so ill need flex hose to be run to motor. I have the firewall and toe boards cut out and new firewall tacked in without the recess cut. If i have enough clearance i am not going to recess it.