No Limit Wide-Ride C10 IFS 63-87

[robnolimit]

There is an install article in the current StreetTrucks so we wanted to lay out some more info for you. The track width is 63". We can offer any 5 lug bolt pattern, but not 6 lug. They are available with a Coil-Over, a Shockwave, or a Bag & Shock. With a 28" tall tire the bottom of the frame rail just behind the tire will be appx. 6". Drop spindles are available, but not recomended, as a bag and shock set up will lay the frame with stock spindles, and the geometry is better. Motor mounts are included and will fit SBC, BBC, and LS.
The complete kits list at $2950, including P/S and swaybar. To help out with the build process, we are offering the C10 Wide-Ride in a three step purchase.

Step 1. You get the main crossmember, motor mounts, Upper A-arm cams, and the lower A-arms. This will get the basic mounting hardware in place and allow you to set the motor and trans in so that you can keep building. Step 1 package is $1195.00

Step 2. The working suspension. This package includes the upper A-arm, spindles and A) coil-overs, or B) bags and shocks, and all of the needed hardware. You'll be one step closer. $995.00

Step 3. Wrap it up. This package gets it done. It includes the rack and pinion, sway bar, rotors, calipers, bearings, seals, pads, and all the hardware needed. $885.00

Hopefully this will help with the budgeting of your build, and help you to keep the project moving forward.

[robnolimit]

pics

[Zoomin]

I really like how you think about making these things affordable by splitting. Will the rack system youve been selling work with this? I bought it at the beginning of the year but haven't installed it yet.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Wasted Income]

I emailed you guys via the nolimit site, but no response yet.

What kind of lead time are we looking at from order to delivery? I ordered some rear suspension stuff from Porterbuilt 6 weeks ago, and still don't have it.

Just need to know how far in advance to order to keep my project going...

[Wasted Income]

Also, do the brake upgrade options from your site hold true for the C-10 setup?

*Upgrades -

Wilwood 12.19 Brake upgrade $749.00

includes billet hubs, drilled & slotted rotors, powder coated 4 piston calipers



Polished 12/19 Wilwood brake upgrade $899.00

same as above with polished caliper



13" Wilwood Brake - 4 Piston Caliper $965.00

polished $1119.00



14" Wilwood Brake - 6 Piston Caliper $1580

polished $1795

[Wasted Income]

*Tap, tap* Is this thing on?

[andrewmp6]

Try giving him a call at 909-386-7637

[robnolimit]

Oops, sorry for the delay. C10 Wide-Ride IFS kits are in stock and ready to ship. We pick and check each part for the order. Most orders ship within a few days. All of the upgrade options are the same, except for the 13" brakes, which have gone up $200.00.

[Wasted Income]

Thank you Rob. You will be hearing from me within the next week or two

[68steppsidee]

hey rob i know ive asked or someone prob has. if i have a 22 and its 9.5 wide will the track width being wider with this ifs will it still fit and lay out... thanks man i know your busy

[robnolimit]

The 9.5" or 10" wide is no problem. With the term "lay out" I would say you are looking at the bag/shock version. If so, then it depends on the tire. We built it to lay out with up to a 30" tall tire. That should have you covered.

[higXtech]

do you guys install these too? im not too far.

[robnolimit]

Yes, we have a full service shop. ?? Leesburg Va.? not too far?? I would also recomend Wide Open Customs, in Roanoke, Va.

[68Stepbed]

So $2950 for a bolt in and run setup + $1580 for the 14" Willwood upgrade = $4530 right? What will it cost for a rear big brake kit?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

So $2950 for a bolt in and run setup + $1580 for the 14" Willwood upgrade = $4530 right? What will it cost for a rear big brake kit?

What rear axle are you going to run? i'll look it up for ya.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

What rear axle are you going to run? i'll look it up for ya.

That's a good question. I'll either keep the stock 12 bolt or I'm thinking of getting a custom 9" Ford. So, if you will look up both for me?

Also thinking of converting to 5x4.75" bp.

[Wasted Income]

Rob...a few questions regarding my install on my wide-ride for my 72 K/5.

First a bit of feedback. The instructions that come with the kit are very lacking when it comes to specifics for the 63-87 kit. The printed instructions, as well as the DVD are centered around 50s chevy truck installations, which are significantly different than the later trucks (boxing plates, specific measurements, etc).

As such, I've had to rely on the photos in this thread to guide me along thus far.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=507066&page=2

1) Judging by these two photos, it appears as though I have the upper arms on backwards.



My upper arm (driver side)


Can you confirm this is installed on the wrong side?

2) What is the wheel travel supposed to be for this suspension? I am only getting about 3-3.5" of vertical travel at the spindle shaft before the front of the lower arm contacts the crossmember and limits upward travel. On downward travel, the balljoint binds, and limits the travel. Thoughts?

All the way "down"


You can kind of see how the lower balljoint is binding up and limiting downward movement.


All the way "up" with the lower arm contacting the crossmember.


Like i mentioned, from all the way "down" to "up" the travel at the spindle shaft is about 3.5". Seems to me that it should be more?

3) I am mocking it up right now, with spindles attached, so that I can locate the crossmember relative to axle center line (there are no holes that line up, since this is a 4x4 frame). Is there a location on the crossmember that is coincident with the centerline of the spindle (wheel centerline)? I have my frame marked, but if I had a spot on the crossmember to line up, without having to project the spindle back to the frame, I'd feel much more comfortable about my measurements before I start drilling holes.

An example of what I'm asking for is below.


For instance if we say that the red line that passes thru the balljoint grease zerk is coincident with the axis of the spindle shaft, can you provide a measurement on the crossmember that would help locate the centerline of the axle on the frame? Assuming it's solid modeled, it should be an extremely easy number to find.


4) Does the 63-87 kit come with the stainless braide brake lines that are shown in the kit for the earlier trucks? My kit doesn't have them, and was just wondering if that's by design, or if they were left out?


I hope you don't mind me posting this here instead of PMing or calling, but I figured anyone else in the future who runs into similar problems might be helped out by it.

Thanks Rob,
Jeff

[fatgump]

I will take some more pictures tonight and post them

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by fatgump

I will take some more pictures tonight and post them

It looks like you installed the arms differently than the NoLimit guys did.....both are shots of the passenger side. On theirs, the "wide" part is toward the rack....yours is toward the cab. I have mine installed like you do, with the wide part toward the cab.





Gump, do you know how much travel you have before there is any interference or binding?

[fatgump]

I will check tonight and let you know.

[Guam671]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

Rob...a few questions regarding my install on my wide-ride for my 72 K/5.

First a bit of feedback. The instructions that come with the kit are very lacking when it comes to specifics for the 63-87 kit. The printed instructions, as well as the DVD are centered around 50s chevy truck installations, which are significantly different than the later trucks (boxing plates, specific measurements, etc).

As such, I've had to rely on the photos in this thread to guide me along thus far.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=507066&page=2

1) Judging by these two photos, it appears as though I have the upper arms on backwards.



My upper arm (driver side)


Can you confirm this is installed on the wrong side?

2) What is the wheel travel supposed to be for this suspension? I am only getting about 3-3.5" of vertical travel at the spindle shaft before the front of the lower arm contacts the crossmember and limits upward travel. On downward travel, the balljoint binds, and limits the travel. Thoughts?

All the way "down"


You can kind of see how the lower balljoint is binding up and limiting downward movement.


All the way "up" with the lower arm contacting the crossmember.


Like i mentioned, from all the way "down" to "up" the travel at the spindle shaft is about 3.5". Seems to me that it should be more?

3) I am mocking it up right now, with spindles attached, so that I can locate the crossmember relative to axle center line (there are no holes that line up, since this is a 4x4 frame). Is there a location on the crossmember that is coincident with the centerline of the spindle (wheel centerline)? I have my frame marked, but if I had a spot on the crossmember to line up, without having to project the spindle back to the frame, I'd feel much more comfortable about my measurements before I start drilling holes.

An example of what I'm asking for is below.


For instance if we say that the red line that passes thru the balljoint grease zerk is coincident with the axis of the spindle shaft, can you provide a measurement on the crossmember that would help locate the centerline of the axle on the frame? Assuming it's solid modeled, it should be an extremely easy number to find.


4) Does the 63-87 kit come with the stainless braide brake lines that are shown in the kit for the earlier trucks? My kit doesn't have them, and was just wondering if that's by design, or if they were left out?


I hope you don't mind me posting this here instead of PMing or calling, but I figured anyone else in the future who runs into similar problems might be helped out by it.

Thanks Rob,
Jeff

Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

1. This is the correct position of the UCA in the base configuration. This nets 3 to 6 degrees + caster. (The UCA is designed so that it can be swapped side-to-side. It can be installed with the 'short tube' forward OR the 'long tube' forward. Also, the aluminum cam can be flipped end-to-end, 'wrench flats' to the back, or to the front)
A) Short tube forward, wrench flats back, 3* to 6* +caster.
B) Long tube forward, wrench flats forward, 5* to 8* + caster.
C) Long tube forward, wrench flats back, 7* to 10* + caster.

2. Down travel will be limited by the coil-over, not the ball joint. "Up" travel loks limited by the port in the crossmember. I suggest using a die grinder to carefully increase the clearance for the LCA tube. Check travel with the shock installed (no spring).

3. Use the center of the main crossmember, it is 4" wide, so, 2" in from the front or back, as the new IFS C.L.

4. Brake hoses are not included with the kit.

Hope this info helps.

[robnolimit]

Your arms are in the correct position. You can 'flip' the arms for more caster, but i would hold that off for the most extreme performers, as it does increase the steering load. The crossmember port should be high enough to allow the arm to travel up to it's max - when the rear tube of the A-arm will hit the chassis. The A-arm port is the one step done here by hand, not CNC, If this is not high enough it may need to be massaged with a die grinder. I will check on the travel specs for you.
The center of the 4" crossmember is the axle CL.

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Your arms are in the correct position. You can 'flip' the arms for more caster, but i would hold that off for the most extreme performers, as it does increase the steering load.

Thanks. I was wondering about that, since there are provisions on both sides to mount the anti-roll bar.

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The crossmember port should be high enough to allow the arm to travel up to it's max - when the rear tube of the A-arm will hit the chassis. The A-arm port is the one step done here by hand, not CNC, If this is not high enough it may need to be massaged with a die grinder.

Cool. So my "Plan B" of firing up the plasma and letting the sparks fly to gain clearance isn't out in left field?

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I will check on the travel specs for you.
The center of the 4" crossmember is the axle CL.

Great. Thank you.

[68steppsidee]

im kinda worried about buying this now howd yours end up turning out wasted income